Ambrosia newbe help

[Lum]

I had some ambrosia wood countertops made. I was thinking I would just cover them up with some clear sealer. After reading around I think I need one of you professionals tell me what I need to do to make it look its best and last. Do I need to attach it to the cabinetry with a way it can move or just bolt it straight down.

 

[jlwest]

I think solid wood counter tops larger/wider than 24" will move enough that they can crack from humidity changes if fastened down tightly. The wood needs to be able to move. Also the ends need to be free to move so don't glue a end cap on or glue to a upright. My dinning room table is about 32" wide and solid wood and it moves up to 1/4" width wise so I used the "butter board" technique for the ends. I have also used McFeeleys table top fasteners and a biscuit joiner to create the grooves needed.

 

[Lum]

I think solid wood counter tops larger/wider than 24" will move enough that they can crack from humidity changes if fastened down tightly. The wood needs to be able to move. Also the ends need to be free to move so don't glue a end cap on or glue to a upright. My dinning room table is about 32" wide and solid wood and it moves up to 1/4" width wise so I used the "butter board" technique for the ends. I have also used McFeeleys table top fasteners and a biscuit joiner to create the grooves needed.

I am trying to find the Mcfeeleys fasteners. Where can I get something to hold it down and let it slip

 

[Lum]

Sorry I am a little slow found Mcfeeleys.com. Now looking for stain . Do I need a water-based stain and what type of top coat works best.

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Sorry I am a little slow found Mcfeeleys.com. Now looking for stain . Do I need a water-based stain and what type of top coat works best.

If you want to change the color for some odd reason, stain will be your worst nightmare. The blotching will be out of this world. Dyes are the only way to go on Maple. Especially on Ambrosia maple.

I'm a Tung oil guy so I'm going to lean that way. It really sets off the figure in Ambrosia maple.

 

[redknife]

Do you know if these slabs are dry? Ask your source if you are not sure.
Can you tell us more about the counter application? For instance, is this counter in a kitchen? around a sink? High use, low use? That should help guide finish decisions.

 

[Jeff]

I would not use stain or dye of any kind on ambrosia maple because it'll hide the figure that's characteristic of this wood? Why did you choose ambrosia maple for these countertops?

Here's ambrosia maple with a pretty clear finish.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/561792...MI0eentoGe2QIVx7jACh0buwXkEAQYASABEgJIBfD_BwE

I'd use clear dewaxed shellac first to highlight the grain and figure (don't use the shellac from Lowe's or Home Depot because they contain wax). Then followed by Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish (easy to apply, durable, and easy to repair if necessary).

http://www.rockler.com/zinsser-bullseye-sealcoat

https://www.waterlox.com/solutions/finishing-wood-countertops

https://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-penetrating-tung-oil-floor-sealer-finish

Your pics look like they're in a new house. Are the base cabinets shown what you want to fasten the countertops to? Fastening the tops to the base cabinets isn't problematic and allowing for wood movement but a few pictures of the cabinets without the tops will help. Are the cabinets solid wood or particle board?

 

[Lum]

Yes they are dry

 

[Lum]

Thank you

 

[Lum]

1 1/2 inch thick, Cabinets are ones from Lowe’s . Maple came for Wall wood in Madison North Carolina. No reason I just like the look and asked him to put me some together for Cabinet tops.

 

[chris_goris]

First off, those look great!. Sand them to 220 minmum first. Then, If you dont want to change the color at all , (I personally wouldnt, but its a personal thing) I would apply 2 coats of Blonde shellac on all sides (from flakes) to seal the wood and make any figure pop. Sand lightly with 320, emphasis, lightly!. You dont want to raise the grain, just remove any rough areas. Topcoat with Waterlox or Lacquer on ALL sides, if you dont seal the bottom, they will curl . I would only anchor with screws in the middle using no more than 2-3 ,allowing the wood to expand from the center. Apply a bead of silicone to the tops of your cabinets and lightly draw it into the silicone , it bonds amazingly well and allows for expansion. Enjoy them! They will be amazing! Good luck

 

[Dee2]

When i visited Emiliano Achaval in Maui he had cabinet and work benches top with Koa slabs. they were big and impressive.

Robin Clark in Kauai sowed us a Koa slab table with seating for 10 he had made for a restaurant. He said that was the small one. Apparently the big one was upstairs.

YMMV, LOL.

 

[KenOfCary]

I'm a little late responding here but I've used these to fasten tops to cabinets or end tables and such.

You screw them to the top and provide a grove in the side rails for them to float in.

http://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners

A wipe on polyurethane will be a very protective finish.

 

[Lum]

Thank you I will bolt it to the middle What type or brand of Poly do I coat it with.

 

[KenOfCary]

Minwax makes a wipe-on Poly that works just fine. I also like the General Finishes Poly but haven't found it in wipe-on strength. Just means I dilute it 50/50 with mineral spirits to make it wipe-on strength.

If you're going to use a matt or satin finish do that on the last coat. First and intermediate coats should be clear or gloss. I usually use a foam brush instead of actually ragging or wiping it on. I just like the thinner poly as it spreads smoother. If I was a better painter/finisher I probably wouldn't take short cuts.

 

[Jeff]

I don't use polyurethane 95% of the time and prefer just about any other finish (like Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, dewaxed shellac, or lacquer).

There's absolutely nothing wrong with the durability and ease of refinishing many finishes even on kitchen counter tops which get heavy use. A few good pics too...

https://waterlox.com/waterlox-countertops

 

[redknife]

I like Waterlox for this application. It is durable, repairable, and often highlights the wood nicely. Note that it will impart an amber tone (usually favorable) to the maple. I would also consider General Finishes exterior 450 polyurethane for this application if you want to use a polyurethane. As mentioned by Ken, use high gloss until the last coat if you want a lower sheen. Another approach to a lower sheen is to “finish the finish” by starting with a gloss final coat then coarse sanding marks followed by progressively finer sanding. Once the desired sheen is reached, you are finished. Generally you are best off waiting until the finish cures (product specific but may be 21 days) to use the “Finish the finish” approach.
If you have any extra wood, test pieces are the best way to assess your aesthetic likes and dislikes when choosing th finish. Perhaps the bottom if you have no cutoffs.

 

[Lum]

How much Shallac I need 26 in x 12 ft and 8 ft x 6 and a Zieber Wood 10 x 24

 

[chris_goris]

How much Shallac I need 26 in x 12 ft and 8 ft x 6 and a Zieber Wood 10 x 24

Im assuming you just want to use it as a seal coat, you can get flakes by the pound and youll probably need at least one pound I would guess. That will make a half gallon of 2 pound cut shellac. You can also buy Zinsser seal coat, (dewaxed) but its hard to find ( klingspor carries it) and about $50/gal I think. But youll spend nearly that to make your own 1/2 gal. so, its hard to determine which way to go.

 

[Jeff]

+1 to Zinnser SealCoat. It is a 2 pound cut in the can and ready to use as is for brushing on. Both sides of your wood should be coated at least 1 time to seal them. Are you going to topcoat the wood with something else like Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish after the shellac?

You'll probably need 2 quarts of shellac based on your dimensions. About 50 square feet total x 2 sides (faces).

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...od-finishes/sealcoat-universal-sanding-sealer

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW

Zieber Wood 10 x 24

Is this Zebra wood?