How Do I how to create a recess on acrylic??

lapfama

New User
lapfama
Hello,
I'm creating an acrylic jig for my router (kind of a wider base with slots on the side to add rails
Cut the basic shape and 1/4" slot like this using a laser cutter

router-base-only.png


Since, I'll be using T-bolts in the slots, need to make a recess to them.

t-bolt-image.png
t-bolt.png



I tried using the router, but it's too aggressive and ended up braking the acrylic.

What method would you recommend for making a recess for the t-bolt in the acrylic?

Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

beloitdavisja

James
Corporate Member
What kind of router bit did you use? Could be that a different bit might be a solution. A 1/4" spiral upcut would be my first try. The double flute straight bits are definitely going to be too aggressive.

You could also try and use the laser and do multiple fill passes. Might take some time to get to the depth you're wanting.
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
Corporate Member
If it’s acrylic, I would just sandwich another piece (or pieces) on it. Maybe use 1/8” thick, unless the thickness doesn’t matter matters…and/or you only have 1/4”.
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
I would try 1/4" O-flute bit, which is designed to remove chips faster and prevent the polymer from melting.
Route the recesses first. Out of scrap material, cut an index jig using your laser - this assures the laser knows where your work piece will be positioned and square with its x-y axis.
 

lapfama

New User
lapfama
What kind of router bit did you use? Could be that a different bit might be a solution. A 1/4" spiral upcut would be my first try. The double flute straight bits are definitely going to be too aggressive.

You could also try and use the laser and do multiple fill passes. Might take some time to get to the depth you're wanting.
excellent idea.
I'll try the 1/4" spiral upcut bit.
 

lapfama

New User
lapfama
If it’s acrylic, I would just sandwich another piece (or pieces) on it. Maybe use 1/8” thick, unless the thickness doesn’t matter matters…and/or you only have 1/4”.
thanks
not sure that I understand your recommendation
 

NCGrimbo

NCGrimbo
Corporate Member
(This may not be a helpful post, but sometimes you just got to post. 8-p )

If you know someone that has a 3D printer, they could probably make that for you.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I use a laminate blade on the table saw and then a hand saw and file to finish... you can use the dremel or equal to clean up and make neat.

Also, you can use a hot rod to smooth the edge or flame to make nice, but practice with this 1st.

Or........ a CNC or a water cutter........... if you have those laying around .......... 😁
 

HITCH-

Hitch
Corporate Member
Do you need to use Tbolts or could you use a bolt with a Philips head? You would just need drill a recess in that case.
 

lapfama

New User
lapfama
Do you need to use Tbolts or could you use a bolt with a Philips head? You would just need drill a recess in that case.
the t-bolt is for sliding within the slot
as an alternate solution I thought of doing many drill recesses to complete each slot,
but first I would give it a try to several of the given alternatives

I'll report back after testing them (probably during the weekend)

Thank you very much to everybody for their suggestions!
 

HITCH-

Hitch
Corporate Member
I can't tell from your drawing but it looks like the 1/4 inch groove is about 1/2 inch from the edge of the workpiece. That's not a problem but if you need to make the recess for the Tbolts that might make them too close to the edge of the workpiece. I work in the plastics industry. I'd suggest 1/2 inch of clearance between the edge of the recesses and the edge of the workpiece.

If you are using the acrylic b/c it is clear and you want to be able to see through it, you might think about making the base our of something more stable like phenolic or plywood and having a clear insert in the center.
 

mpeele

michael
User
I used a similar fixture for years. I made mine with the bolts epoxied in the guides with the wing nuts and washer on top of the plate. I made the 1/4" slots in the plate with a 1/8" O-flute bit and a dremel tool in a base and edge guide.
 

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