Worksharp 3000 replacement paper

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Ralrick

New User
Rick
I have built a couple of versions (one stumpy’s specs, one modified to my specs).

Bruce - any plans or drawings of the modifications you made to the Stumpy's jig? based on your experience it sounds like it would need to have some adjustable leveling to be able to accommodate for the different thickness of sanding papers. Did you make any other adjustments/enhancements?

Rick
 

Joe G.

New User
Joe
I do have one issue with the machine. It's out of square by a nominal amount (larger as the blade width increases). I've adjusted to skew adjustment over and over but can't seem to get it perfectly square. Do any of you have any "trick" to align it easily without having to completely sharpen over and over again to find that you've gone too far or not enough? The adjustment is definitely not intuitive and there is a TON of slop in it. It's driving me insane lol.
 

BWhitney

Bruce
Corporate Member
Rick
I gave up on Stumpy’s version. I am going to try to attach my version as a sketch up file but just in case that doesn’t work here is what it looks like.
attachment.php

It is more of a storage stand than an alternative to the wide blade attachment or the tool bar attachment while Stumpy’s tried to be both.
A check the woodworking tool sites (Woodcraft, Klingspor’s, Highland, Rockler, and Work Sharp itself) and it appears that the tool bar attachment is not available while the wide blade attachment is still available. Interesting since the Woodcraft details for the not available tool bar attachment says “The folks at Work Sharp responded to that criticism with the Wide Blade Attachment (#149512) and now have created a tool bar that attaches to the side of any existing 3000 allowing you to use Tormek® and Jet® Wet Sharp Jigs to sharpen turning tools.” I happen to love it for that purpose.
Joe
I pretty much quit using the sharpening port because of the out of square grinding. It doesn’t happen on all of the chisels, but the ones that is does happen on, it does it consistently. I think it has more to do with the chisel profile. That being said, once I get the wide blade attachment adjusted, and use it with a honing guide (I prefer the Veritas but also use a couple of cheap ones for different grinds), then I get a square, repeatable SHARP edge for both plane blades and chisels.
 

Attachments

  • Worksharp Stand - A L 2.jpg
    Worksharp Stand - A L 2.jpg
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BWhitney

Bruce
Corporate Member
Trying to attach the sketchup file.

Yay! I think it worked.
 

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  • Worksharp Stand - A L 2.skp
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cobraguy

Clay
Corporate Member
Thanks for the skp Bruce. I will get my WS3000 delivered this week and was already thinking of how to store/employ it. This looks like a great idea.
 

Sam Knight

Sam Knight
Sam
Corporate Member
Bruce, I like your design for the Worksharp 3000 station. Looks very functional. I wonder how difficult it would be to have this attached to the wall to save counter-top space. May have to build one for mine and then maybe i'd use it more often. Keeping it tucked away and all the discs in a drawer I seem to forget I have it. lol
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
Bruce, I like your design for the Worksharp 3000 station. Looks very functional. I wonder how difficult it would be to have this attached to the wall to save counter-top space. May have to build one for mine and then maybe i'd use it more often. Keeping it tucked away and all the discs in a drawer I seem to forget I have it. lol

I put mine on the wall. Its a close copy of the Stumpy idea and it works well for me. Take a look at Stumpy's set up and Bruce's illustration and I think you will have a good station that doesn't take up a bunch of space. All of my friends who have the WS just sitting under a table somewhere never get it out cause "bending over and pulling it out" is such a hassle. Tell you something?


I like the flat grind and the WS is great for me. Having it on the wall with 10 different discs and grits makes it quick and easy. I use it because it is simple. I think I will look into these diamond plated disks. I have the flat DMT plates and I use them for most everything. My water stones and Norton stuff just gather dust for the most part. I am not dealing with water considering this winter and the temps.

If you have a WS, build a small station. You won't regret it. If you do its not a big investment.
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
Tagging on to this thread if that's OK . . . wondering if anyone has built a case for the WS3000 that would provide a surface to use the top of the glass plates using a rolling honing guide? This would enable full use of the sanding surface rather than just the small slice when using the traditional under-wheel sharpening. I've seen a couple designs online and was thinking of building one. Anyone build one and care to share experience and your design?

Rick

Saw your question about the WS workstation. I took the Stumpy idea and modified a bit. I use it a bunch. For years I fooled with the water stones and it just finally wore me out. The WS is quick and easy and you can really adapt it with a little thought.

1-11_jan_stool_2018_001.JPG


The pine work surface is pretty close to being "in-plane" with the spinning disk. I don't fuss with it much as I free hand about 90 percent of the time.

When I want to get anal, this tool below is tough to beat.

1-11_jan_stool_2018_002.JPG


with the blade, chisel locked in place with the front cross bar with the knob on top you move on to the rear knob. This minutely changes the angle of the grind. It is so easy and quick shake my head for not finding this sooner.

Some will wonder? How does he get a nice straight 90 degree edge? I just shim the front edge of the tool holder with a 5x8 card or something thinner. It doesn't take much. I use lots of mdf discs and glue all kinds of paper to them. Its not rocket science you just tweak it and go.

One note. The original disc hold down screw only engages a couple of threads when you use glass discs. The mdf is a little thicker so I made a new knob with a longer screw. Much better and easier to use.

Don't know about you but if my sharpening station is not simple and easy to get to and get away quickly, I am not using it and I find I push dull chisels longer than I should. With the WS near by and no need for water and flattening stones and wiping up I use it all the time and go right back to work.



1-11_jan_stool_2018_005.JPG


A bit long winded but hopefully you get the idea. More photos in the album in the Gallery.​
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Has anyone used TORMEK paste on MDF with their Worksharp? I know it works great on flat pieces of MDF for final polishing.
 

Opensightryan

New User
Ryan
I just bought a ws3000, I also got the wide blade attachment and bought the Kent brand of diamond discs. I like dmt stuff but the cost was very high ($90+ for their set of 2 or 3 vs $16 ea.) And the reviews were kinda bad. I only got the 240, 600, and 1500 grits so far but they mount well and with the glass they seem stable/flat. I haven't got the results I want so I ordered the 3000 to see if it would help also haven't stroped so I've got some leather for that. I haven't tried the paper yet. Also the wide blade attachment works well but leveling was a pita because two little rubber pads wouldn't let the table go low enough so they got tossed and everything is set pretty well.
 

tdukes

New User
Eddie
Just made some MDF plates for my WS today. I saw the Stumpy video and got some of those polishing bars he uses. He says they are 6" but the glass plates are like 5-7/8 in diameter. Half inch MDF is about 3/16" thicker. I don't have the wide blade attachment but MDF is a whole lot cheaper than those $20 glass plates.
 
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