Veneer saw -- latest tool build

[creasman]

My tool box must definitely have a hole in the bottom. I can never seem to fill it up! There is always one more tool I need. This latest example is a copy of an old English veneer saw. The original is owned by Patrick Edwards and I was able to make a tracing of the saw parts when I attended a class last month. This week I finally got around to making one of my own. The total length of the saw is about 8".

The blade is recycled from an old handsaw, toothed at 12 TPI. The handle is beech. This is a right-handed saw as the blade mounts flush to the left side. You cut on the pull stroke with the blade against a fence. Cutting starts at the back of the blade, moving towards the front end as you pull. For cross-grained cutting I begin the cut at the near side and gradually work towards the far end of the board on each stroke. This lessens the chance you snag the grain and tear out a section. When cutting with the grain this is not a problem.

 

[drw]

Jim, beautifully done and I am sure it performs as well as it looks. You need to develop a customized stamp to distinguish all of the fine tools you have crafted!

 

[Graywolf]

Really clean saw Jim. It look’s easy to get used to as well

 

[dancam]

My tool box must definitely have a hole in the bottom. I can never seem to fill it up! There is always one more tool I need. This latest example is a copy of an old English veneer saw. The original is owned by Patrick Edwards and I was able to make a tracing of the saw parts when I attended a class last month. This week I finally got around to making one of my own. The total length of the saw is about 8".

The blade is recycled from an old handsaw, toothed at 12 TPI. The handle is beech. This is a right-handed saw as the blade mounts flush to the left side. You cut on the pull stroke with the blade against a fence. Cutting starts at the back of the blade, moving towards the front end as you pull. For cross-grained cutting I begin the cut at the near side and gradually work towards the far end of the board on each stroke. This lessens the chance you snag the grain and tear out a section. When cutting with the grain this is not a problem.

View attachment 220978 View attachment 220979

Nice saw

 

[Gotcha6]

BITD, interlocking weatherstripping was the Cadillac of door seals. The installer would use a saw similar to this to cut a kerf into the jamb and the door.

 

[creasman]

Thanks. Got to use it a lot yesterday cutting some veneer for a desk I've started. Works really well. I clamped a straight edge at one end over a sacrificial board. Insert the veneer under the straight edge and apply hand pressure on the other end to lock it down. Begin pulling the saw with the blade against the edge to make the cut.

 

[gamiller3rd]

It’s always a good feeling when it all works out as planned. Well done.

 

[Dee2]

This would be a great build "article" for our "Resource" forum. Please consider.

 

[Hmerkle]

This would be a great build "article" for our "Resource" forum. Please consider.

And he did!

 

[creasman]

And he did!

I haven't posted anything in the resources on building this saw. Maybe you're confusing this with another post. I did submit a couple of others last month.

 

[Dee2]

Jim, we appreciate any and all of your contributions!

 

[creasman]

Thanks! You're most welcome. I'll try to post plans for this saw at some point. One of the things on my bucket list is to learn SketchUp. I just haven't found the time, yet.