Using Arm-a-Cell and Seal-a-cell

[DavidF]

I am about to start the finishing process on the dining table (and you thought I wasn't making progress:lol and have decided to go with General Finishes Arm-a-Cell and Seal-a-cell. Anybody out there got any tips on using this on QSWO? Is one coat of the sealer enough? three top coats? rub out in between etc. I know they have recomendations on the web site, but there is nothing like experience, especially on one particular type of wood. I am not looking for a fully filled finsh.

 

[ChrisMathes]

David, this is typically the finish I use, unless I can slather it in CA. :rotf: Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with using it on QSWO. I have found, however, that I do like their suggested application. One coat of sealer...don't rub out...just go right to topcoat after it dries. I personally would not go less than three top coats (rubbed out in between) but may go more. Definitely wipe down each application to remove excess. You will know it when you get the right # coats...all the sudden, it seems 'even'.

HTH,
Chris

 

[McRabbet]

David,

I've used Seal-A-Cell as the primer coat on several White Oak projects, including QSWO. For example, the main cabinet tops for the Dining Room Cabinet Project I completed this summer are (left top is WO 24" by 32"; center top is made with QSWO 74" wide by 18" deep) and finished with Seal-A-Cell. After sanding these on my drum sander to 120 grit, I finish-sanded them to 220 grit with my ROS and used both a vacuum and tack cloth to get all of the sanding dust from the surface. I put on a moderate amount of Seal-A-Cell using a clean 18" rag, squeezing the excess out when I dip the rag in the can. After putting on this sealer coat, I squeezed out the excess again and re-folded the rag to make a 4" x 6" pad. I used this lightly to remove any excess finish, moving along the grain. I examined the surface to be sure there were no smears or thick areas. I also wiped the edges and then let the top dry 24 hours. Next, I sealed the bottom side the same way. After another 24 hours, I started the first of 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal in the Satin finish. Each dried 24 hours or more before the next coat. I waited 4 full days after the last coat before I moved the top to the job site and install it to be sure it was completely dry. I like the finish, but do be careful not to use too much in any coat.

Hope this helps.

 

[DavidF]

Thanks Rob, I seemed to remember you had used this stuff on Oak. I'll give it a go when I get back at the end of the month.

 

[ChrisMathes]

Rob...quick...delete thos pix before my wife sees them!

 

[woodguy1975]

I am about to start the finishing process on the dining table (and you thought I wasn't making progress:lol and have decided to go with General Finishes Arm-a-Cell and Seal-a-cell. Anybody out there got any tips on using this on QSWO? Is one coat of the sealer enough? three top coats? rub out in between etc. I know they have recomendations on the web site, but there is nothing like experience, especially on one particular type of wood. I am not looking for a fully filled finsh.

Dave,

I use the stuff on my chairs. I've found the key to not getting streaks is to apply it with a cotton rag that you charge with the finish, ring out, and then load for application. The precharging of the rag helps keep you from dry wiping the finish that causes streaking. Once you have the system down you can get a great finish with it.

Good Luck,

John

 

[MikeL]

John, may be a dumb question but what do you mean by "charge"? Are you soaking the rag in the finish before using? Thanks.

This is a very helpful thread for those of us new to the finishing process. Most of my stuff hasn't made it that far :lol:.

 

[McRabbet]

One additional trick that I use -- it saves rags and finish, too. After I've applied a coat of either of these finishes, I put the rag back in the can and spray a 2-3 second burst of Bloxygen into the can with the lid ajar. Bloxygen works great to keep partial cans of oil-based finishes from skimming or the rags from drying out. And the rag is fully "charged" (.i.e., soaked through) for the next use. Bloxygen is available from Klingspors Woodworking Shop and it works very well -- worth the investment!

 

[DavidF]

Thanks for all the info, the finishing process starts this coming w/e. I notice that DM applies with a brush then removes with a rag, but you guys seem to prefer rag application, so what's good enough for you is good enough for me!

 

[ChrisMathes]

yah...the rag DM uses to wipe appears to be dry, also...so, I was suprised by the advice above, but it makes a lot of sense to me.

David, please let me know how it goes. I'll be using this for my bunk beds in a few weeks.

Chris

 

[DavidF]

yah...the rag DM uses to wipe appears to be dry, also...so, I was suprised by the advice above, but it makes a lot of sense to me.

David, please let me know how it goes. I'll be using this for my bunk beds in a few weeks.

Chris

Will do.

 

[DavidF]

Ok, so this is what happened: I had a nice chat with Rob at General finishes and he cleared up a few points for me. He said that the Seal-a-cell and Arm-a-Seal were designed from the outset to be used together. The oils in the SaC are more penetrating than in the AaS and although it could be used on its own as a finish similar to a Danish oil, it would lose its luster after a few months and become dull. The AaS can be used on its own on "boring" woods" where "popping the grain is not an issue. 3 coats will give a good protective finish and will harden off to a point where it can be polished or cut back. His recommended finish is ONE coat of the SaC put on wet, wait a minute and wipe off ALL of the residue. Apply 2-3 top coats of the AaS. Application device is a matter of personal preference and is just a method of getting it on to the work. The foam brush followed by a rag is fine, but can drip on vertical surfaces and if these aren't spotted and wiped off straight away they can cause a problem later. He even suggested that he has used it on his bench top by pouring it out of the can, spreading it out with a foam brush and leaving it to self level. For my application I used Semi Gloss top coat, which BTW is glossy enough, don't bother with the full Gloss IMHO and the Clear SaC. I applied a full coat of the SaC with a brush, waited and wiped off. Next day I applied the first top coat, this time with a rag. I used a method similar to French polishing. I formed a pad by wrapping a piece of wadding inside a lint free rag and wrapping it to form a stiff compact "Mouse" I then dipped the pad into the top coat, squeezing out the excess, I dipped and squeezed 3 times initially. I ended up with a wet, but not runny wiping pad. I applied to all surfaces in even strokes, putting on a thin coat, finishing with a steady sweep along the grain, refilling the pad as required. I applied a total of 3 top coats and one Seal coat rubbing gently with 0000 steel wool between each top coat. I DID NOT rub down the initial SaC coat as this is not recommended. After a week I applied a single coat of a good paste wax with 0000 wire wool and then buffed. The finish is super, medium shine, smooth and mark free. I would highly recommend this finish. I would maybe have preferred the Satin finish, but Woodworkers supply didn't have any! Anyway, all in all a good finish.

The table is finished and has been delivered to the customer, but the glass did not arrive as promised so no finish pics yet, but it does look really nice, even if I say so my self!

 

[McRabbet]

David,

Sounds like these two finishes worked for you just as they have for me! I really like this combination and have found that they are fairly easy to apply and produce very good results. I have always selected the Satin finish version, because that's my preference and my customers have always agreed with the outcome. During the period this past summer when Klingspor was having their higher discount, I bought a few extra quarts, including some of the stained varieties. I'm looking forward to your pictures -- I suspect this table will be on the 2009 Calendar!