I don't doubt the sharpness, just saying shaving is not a great test.Hmm .... the problem is I don't have a good reference for what "extremely sharp" is. In my defense after sharpening that way, I used them to cut 4 large mortises in hickory on my Barn Door project, mostly with only hand pressure.
Still it did take a while and if there's something I can add to the process get a better edge, suggestions are welcome. Really don't want to make a major change (like buying a grinder) but adding a step or two that will make a difference is definitely on the table.
there are two kitchen knives that I spent (a good amount of) time sharpening and was told by "the user" that they were not sharp.I have sharpened knives for people and they would "resharpen" on 100 grit sandpaper.
They don't use a sharp knife, they use a saw.
If you understand sharpening you can use a tea cup to sharpen a knife. The sharpening system doesn’t really matter as long as you have coarse, medium, and fine AND know how to use what you have.The problem with a lot of classes is that unless the student has the exact same equipment in his shop, the class is little more than how to use the teacher's equipment. The best case would be for an experienced teacher to come to your shop and show how to sharpen on the equipment and accessories you already have.
Set your bevels on both sides, work one side til you feel a burr all along the edge, work that burr back to the other side, DO NOT break off the burr, hone then polish. What's to test? If you are getting different results each time then you are not doing the same thing.NOPE! not true - when you sharpen a kitchen knife you can do the same thing twice and get different results - you HAVE to test it.