Scrollsaw advice

[ChrisMathes]

I have not used my scrollsaw much at all. I am working on a project now where I need to cut a 'window' into a piece of wood. The window is square on the sides and bottom and arched at the top. (This is a small project, btw). When I've played with my scrollsaw in the past, I never felt like I had very much control...following a line was challenging as the blade seemed to wander??

I was hoping someone could supply some advice as to how I can cut this out with my scrollsaw and keep my lines straight and parallel to each other. Is it easiest to cut the general shape out and then fine tune the shape with a rasp and/or sandpaper? I am concerned b/c a slightly wiggly line will be very obvious...

Any advice is apprecitate...
thx,
Chris

 

[Joe Scharle]

Chris, we do have a SS expert (cshipper), but she's not on-line at the moment. In the meantime, I'll tell you that mine abhors a straight line also. In cases where I can't use a sabre saw on a piece, I've used a piece of flat steel laid along the line to make the blade behave. I'm sure Cathy will tell you the best way next time she's on-line.
Joe

 

[cskipper]

While far from expert, I have several suggestions.
1. Be sure the tension is tight. It's only too tight if it breaks in the middle when cutting. The blade tension is probably the biggest factor. You can tell if this is some of the problem by watching the blade as you approach it with a piece of wood. You can often see it look wobbly.

2. Unless you are using precision ground blades (they'll say that on that package - not many brands have these) the blade will tend to cut to the right of left. This is due to the way blades are milled. Each individual blade will be a little different. I would suggest that you cut a scrap piece of wood, the same if possible, and try to follow a line. Providing your tension is tight, that blade will cut the same direction (if it veers right at the beginning or using that blade it will veer the same way at the end).

3. Don't over-use a blade. They are relatively inexpensive and getting that last little place cut may ruin your project. If the blade starts gnawing through the wood instead of cutting it too dull. You'll have the tendency to start pushing the wood through the blade instead of feeding it through, which will make the blade veer.

There are all sorts of other saw problems which may cause the problem, but I suspect one or more of the things listed above will be the culprit.

Let me know if those things don't help. I'll be off and on the site the rest of the day.

 

[clowman]

I'll offer up one other suggestion. Well, it's not using a scrollsaw, but it does work well. Use a router and a jig saw. First make a pattern out of 1/4 hardboard. Then trace the pattern on your workpiece and trace it out. Take a jigsaw and cut out the window. Just get it close, but stay away from your line. Then attach your pattern back onto your workpiece and secure it down really well. Then take a pattern cutting bit and router and run it around your pattern. It'll come out very nice.

Here's a picture of my finished window I made using this method.

Just another point of view.

 

[ChrisMathes]

Great, thank you...all three of you...for taking the time to resond. I have been going back and forth between using a pattern and my router or the scrollsaw. I'll have to spend the afternoon playing around until I decide...thanks for your help!!

Chris

 

[Dullblade]

Cskipper,

I took your advice on blade tension and the other suggestions above and man my saw really did cut better with a real tight blade. I also saw a trick somewhere where you use a stone for sharpening to round the bac of the blade and it helps you turn sharper in your cuts. That worked also. Thanks for the fantastic hints. Roger:eusa_clap

 

[cskipper]

I'm glad my suggestion helped. I have read about filing the back of the blade but never tried it. Good to know that works too. We are expecting pictures! :lol:

 

[woodguy1975]

Cskipper,

I took your advice on blade tension and the other suggestions above and man my saw really did cut better with a real tight blade. I also saw a trick somewhere where you use a stone for sharpening to round the bac of the blade and it helps you turn sharper in your cuts. That worked also. Thanks for the fantastic hints. Roger:eusa_clap

That really works well on BS blades too.

:icon_thum

 

[D L Ames]

I also saw a trick somewhere where you use a stone for sharpening to round the bac of the blade and it helps you turn sharper in your cuts. That worked also. Thanks for the fantastic hints. Roger:eusa_clap

That really works well on BS blades too.

:icon_thum

.......And they even make a tool to round over the backs of those blades.

D L