Sooo they say they have re-designed the flaw on the blade tension, whats the opinions?
Rikon 10-345
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That's a matter subject to debate (the "bad" fix.) I've got a "bad" 10-345 and there's not a clam on the Carolina coast that's happier than I am, at least with respect to his bandsaw performance. (Of course, I have no idea why a clam needs a bandsaw. Might come in handy during mating season.)
I can't make the blade "flutter", but it cuts straight and fast, so flutter be darned.
I can't make the blade "flutter", but it cuts straight and fast, so flutter be darned.
Jim, I have zero personal experience with the "before or after" Rikon. However, I have personal regrets for not purchasing one 2+ years ago when bandsaw shopping. I wasn't familiar with the Rikon brand and missed the opportunity to buy one for slightly more than the Powermatic I chose. The Powermatic is a fine saw, but unlike the Rikon . . .it isn't really built for 12" resaw capacity. :crybaby2:
Roger
Roger
Anyone else have the 10-345? Pro's Con's? Everything I have read gives it great reviews for the saw and how it performs. Fernhollowman how long have you had yours? What blades are you using on it? Is it planted in your shop or is it mobile? Any quarks to the saw that a woodworker should know? thanks for letting me pick your brain
Fernhollowman how long have you had yours?
Mid November of 2006
What blades are you using on it?
Timberwolf. 1/4" and 1/2"
Is it planted in your shop or is it mobile?
It's on a Delta "cut 2x2 oak to fit" mobile base but it hasn't moved yet.
Any quarks to the saw that a woodworker should know?
Although it's spec'd to carry a 1-1/4 blade, I ruined that blade within ten minutes because it started to cut the frame. That may have been inexperience on my part, not being careful enough with the tracking. I read the bandsaw book whilst flying out to Vegas, and thought I had things under control. I tossed the big blade (I was resawing rescued cherry firewood) and put the TW 1/2" 3TPI and I think that's the blade for me.
Although I read all about bandsaw drift, I have not experienced any. I heightened the fence with MDF, and when I resaw against the fence, there isn't 0.005 difference in the lead slice and tail slice.
Trying to cut using the calibration on the fence is a joke, but then again, the PM AccuFence is my reference.
I can't make the blade flutter, but I think most have that problem regardless of the size or brand. That's some mojo magic that may come later in my life. I just tensioned the TW to the gauge setting for a 1/2" blade and everything works well.
The roller guides have no jackscrews to hold adjustment, and setting them is a little dicey as they'd like to move while you tighten them. You get used to it, though.
I called Tech Support to ask a stupid question, and was speaking with a tech within one minute. I refuse to discuss my stupid question. Admitting it was stupid is as far as I'll go. When I call Powermatic for non-stupid questions, my hold time is measured in half-hours. I haven't asked PM a stupid question, yet.
Switch is NOT magnetic, meaning it can restart after a power failure without any further interaction from you. I'd prefer a magnetic switch, although the scenario of power fault -> my fingers in the blade -> power restored -> fingers gone is about as probable as finding a politician who doesn't lie (or steal).
Blade changes, though inconvenient, are not difficult. Good access through smooth doors.
Twin 4" dust ports.
2-year warranty. Local availability from Toolferone. Friendly delivery, if you tip well.
Seems like I got mine on sale for $1,000 plus, of course, Easely's salary.
Cleaning up today, I brushed off my 10" Black and Decker 3-wheel bandsaw that was a birthday present from my wife many, many years ago. I almost didn't even bring it into the new shop, thinking it was a toy. Even offered it to a guys on Craigslist who wanted an old bandsaw to saw up venison. Was gonna put $25 in my pocket and send it on its way.
Well, I did put it in there, and put a new blade on it, and tensioned and leveled and squared, and you know what, it's the most under-rated thing in the shop. Rare is the project when I don't use it to nip an edge off something, or cut one of my many scraps to length, or otherwise find the utility of a 1/8" blade. Gonna start a thread on under-rated tools one of these fine days.
Back to the Rikon. I would recommend.
Mid November of 2006
What blades are you using on it?
Timberwolf. 1/4" and 1/2"
Is it planted in your shop or is it mobile?
It's on a Delta "cut 2x2 oak to fit" mobile base but it hasn't moved yet.
Any quarks to the saw that a woodworker should know?
Although it's spec'd to carry a 1-1/4 blade, I ruined that blade within ten minutes because it started to cut the frame. That may have been inexperience on my part, not being careful enough with the tracking. I read the bandsaw book whilst flying out to Vegas, and thought I had things under control. I tossed the big blade (I was resawing rescued cherry firewood) and put the TW 1/2" 3TPI and I think that's the blade for me.
Although I read all about bandsaw drift, I have not experienced any. I heightened the fence with MDF, and when I resaw against the fence, there isn't 0.005 difference in the lead slice and tail slice.
Trying to cut using the calibration on the fence is a joke, but then again, the PM AccuFence is my reference.
I can't make the blade flutter, but I think most have that problem regardless of the size or brand. That's some mojo magic that may come later in my life. I just tensioned the TW to the gauge setting for a 1/2" blade and everything works well.
The roller guides have no jackscrews to hold adjustment, and setting them is a little dicey as they'd like to move while you tighten them. You get used to it, though.
I called Tech Support to ask a stupid question, and was speaking with a tech within one minute. I refuse to discuss my stupid question. Admitting it was stupid is as far as I'll go. When I call Powermatic for non-stupid questions, my hold time is measured in half-hours. I haven't asked PM a stupid question, yet.
Switch is NOT magnetic, meaning it can restart after a power failure without any further interaction from you. I'd prefer a magnetic switch, although the scenario of power fault -> my fingers in the blade -> power restored -> fingers gone is about as probable as finding a politician who doesn't lie (or steal).
Blade changes, though inconvenient, are not difficult. Good access through smooth doors.
Twin 4" dust ports.
2-year warranty. Local availability from Toolferone. Friendly delivery, if you tip well.
Seems like I got mine on sale for $1,000 plus, of course, Easely's salary.
Cleaning up today, I brushed off my 10" Black and Decker 3-wheel bandsaw that was a birthday present from my wife many, many years ago. I almost didn't even bring it into the new shop, thinking it was a toy. Even offered it to a guys on Craigslist who wanted an old bandsaw to saw up venison. Was gonna put $25 in my pocket and send it on its way.
Well, I did put it in there, and put a new blade on it, and tensioned and leveled and squared, and you know what, it's the most under-rated thing in the shop. Rare is the project when I don't use it to nip an edge off something, or cut one of my many scraps to length, or otherwise find the utility of a 1/8" blade. Gonna start a thread on under-rated tools one of these fine days.
Back to the Rikon. I would recommend.
Michael, I don't know whether they've changed the design since the 10-345 became available in Jan, 2006. I got one of the very first saws and had problems with the interaction between tracking and tensioning. The problem was related to friction between the bottom of the tensioning assy and the frame.
Running 3/8 curve cutting blades was no problem but running higher tensions for a 1 inch resaw blade resulted in the upper wheel assy "shifting" position dependent on the amount of tension. The other thing that bothered me was each time I re-tensioned a blade that had been previously tracked with guides set up, the blade would settle into a slightly different position and I would have to track and set guides again. That problem eliminated any advantage of the "quick tension" release.
(I'm not a big fan of the quick tension levers. I believe they are more marketing hype than help. It takes me a few seconds to turn the tension wheel a few times while I flex the band until the tension feels right.)
I didn't care too much for the roller guides either. They shifted slightly as I would tighten down the screws to set the position.
My guess would be that they have taken steps to improve/correct the tension/tracking problem. I have read positive comments about the 10-345 on several different forums.
I will say that their tech support is top notch. In the end I returned the saw but would consider purchasing one of their products in the future if I found a good fit.
Chuck
Running 3/8 curve cutting blades was no problem but running higher tensions for a 1 inch resaw blade resulted in the upper wheel assy "shifting" position dependent on the amount of tension. The other thing that bothered me was each time I re-tensioned a blade that had been previously tracked with guides set up, the blade would settle into a slightly different position and I would have to track and set guides again. That problem eliminated any advantage of the "quick tension" release.
(I'm not a big fan of the quick tension levers. I believe they are more marketing hype than help. It takes me a few seconds to turn the tension wheel a few times while I flex the band until the tension feels right.)
I didn't care too much for the roller guides either. They shifted slightly as I would tighten down the screws to set the position.
My guess would be that they have taken steps to improve/correct the tension/tracking problem. I have read positive comments about the 10-345 on several different forums.
I will say that their tech support is top notch. In the end I returned the saw but would consider purchasing one of their products in the future if I found a good fit.
Chuck
good information friends, I appreciate all of the info.
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