Resaw question

[Gofor]

Bought a couple slabs of plain sawn 8/4 x 8" WO today for a woodworking-bench top (Not the HM that Monty used, but should be hard enough to hold the bench dogs. For my first WW bench, I don't want to break the already-stretched budget, either). I have a couple choices: Use it flat-sawn as is, or to cut it and essentially make it quarter sawn. If I slice it into strips, I can also increase the thickness, altho I am thinking 2" is enough.
1: Will I run less of a chance of future cupping (the boards are slightly cupped now), by splitting it? I am thinking the Vertical grain will be more stable.
2: Other than weight, is there another advantage to going more than 2" thickness?

Also have not decided on the bench dog holes: 3/4" square or round. If square, it looks like I'll have to make the dogs myself as I haven't found any, but round makes that easier and I don't need additional holes for bench clamps. However, most traditional ones are square and the ol' ancesters did things for a reason. What am I missing? Any comments on this would also be appreciated.

:eusa_thinGo

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

Wish I had an answer for you. Those both sound like good questions to be asking though.

This is all just pure theory and an opinion on how I would approach the same questions: Flat sawn wood gives you a less dense and, by default, softer surface. However, flat-sawn would give you very strong end grain for your bench dogs and mounting of a vice.

My bench takes a beating so splinters are a possibility - if you think of how a flaw-sawn board would split if you bent it then that would give a good idea of how damage splinters would appear wider than q.sawn.

Again - pure conjecture and theory - my bench is 2x6's covered with a 5/8 sheet of plywood that I can replace as often as needed. It's by no means the classic heirloom it sounds like you are building.

Good Luck

 

[Gofor]

Thanks for the insight. had not thought of the splintering problem.
Not at all a classic heirloom, Just a good functional bench to use hand tools on. I have worn out several 2x4 and 2x6 benches, used plywood and exterior solid core doors. None really worked with the hardwood dowels I tried to use as bench dogs, cause the bench top gave out. I no longer do a lot of gas eng overhaul, etc, and finally have the time to get into using the hand tools more, so instead of replacing the top, I hope to just resurface it when it gets too dinged up. What I have now racks, moves or won't hold the piece right when I am hand planing or trying to cut joints.
It used to be that I made a fair wage, but never had any time to enjoy it. After moving here and buying a house, I no longer have the money, but have the time. So, I now am using hand tools more, and relearning some skills I thought I used to have as well as some new ones. A good work bench will be the most used "tool" in my shop, so I am trying to make one that will last for the next few years without constant maintenance.
I notice you do a lot of chainsaw milling. Why is it in a state known for its furniture industry, you can't find a timber (log) jack or a one-man cross-cut saw for sale anywhere?

Go

 

[Travis Porter]

Personally, I would go for the quarter sawn. 2" is plenty thick to me. My preference as well is square bench dogs, you can make them pretty simple with a piece of hardwood, a hardwood strip and a couple of screws (got it out of woodsmith).

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

On the thickness- two issues: first strength/rigidity- two inches should be fine; second issue: bench dogs- top needs to be thick enough for bench dogs to stow and also so the spring has enough surface so dog doesn't slip down.

 

[Travis Porter]

That is a good point Alan. Most dog assemblies I believe are at least 3 1/2 inches thick. The Woodsmith plans I used way back when used 1 x 3 1/2 maple for those parts of it.

 

[mkepke]

Either flat-sawn (slabs) or quartersaw (strips) will work. If you go with the slabs, I'd ensure that there was some sort of cleating..most hobby shops are not conditioned spaces and will see humidity swings, encouraging warping.

For dog holes - round or square, take your pick. Some folks get religious over the issue, but I can't see a meaningful difference.

My bench: maple slabs with round dog-holes.

-Mark