NYW Router Table

[MikeF]

I bought the plan for the Router Table from New Yankee Workshop, and I know some of you have also built this. I am looking for recommendations on the type of kits to use. (Router plate, hardware kit's etc) It seems there are several different options to purchase on Rockler's site. I was hoping to tap into your experience before I started this project.

Thanks,

MikeF

 

[DaveO]

Are you planning on using a router lift? If so I really like the Jessum plate and master-lift. I have their standard plate in my made-up NYW RT facsimile.
Dave

 

[MikeF]

Are you planning on using a router lift?

Definately looking for a router lift. I'll take a look at the Jessem. Thanks Dave.

 

[Monty]

I'm not sure what type of router you plan to put in your table. If it's a plunge router, then look at the router raizer or the plungelift. I have never used either of these but I've heard good things about them over the years.

If it's the 7518 motor, then the Bench Dog Prolift probably sets the standards in terms of quality of materials. Almost as good is the Jessem MastRLift - that's what I have, and I'm perfectly happy with it. Another great choice would be the Woodpecker Precision Router Lift (or their new Quick-Lift). Take a look at the features, they're all very nice lifts. As I have said before, probably the best choice will depend on which one you see on sale next! :icon_thum

 

[MikeF]

Thanks Monty. Good advise.

 

[SteveColes]

I'll echo Monty's comments on the lifts. I've had and used the following:

Bench Dog ProLift
Woodpecker's PRL
Woodpecker's QuickLift.

You really can't go wrong with any of these. You just have to decide which pro's and con's you can tolerate.

 

[McRabbet]

Monty mentioned the Router Raizer, which I have and will give you my comments on its use. I installed one on my Porter-Cable 693 plunge base so I could gain access to setting the router depth from above the table. The installation if fairly straight forward and requires some patience and exchanging several parts. The unit fits into the plunge lock side of the router base and has a knurled knob that one can access from under the table and a hex socket that a small crank handle fits into that allows adjustments from above the table (a hole is drilled in the plate and a small metal plug keeps the hex socket clear of sawdust -- a small magnet on the crank handle holds the metal plug while the crank is used). It works fine, except the 693 plunge base has a poorly designed set of guide bushings on the plunge rods. Even with Andy Granatelli's famous STP oil additive, the bushings bind. I struggled with it for several months before I broke down and bought my Milwaukee 3-1/2 HP variable speed router that has a "through-the-table" access port and is a joy to use -- it also has twice the power of my old P-C router and can cut raised panels with ease. The R-R might work fine on other plunge bases, but the P-C 693 base is not one of them.

If you can't afford a router lift and a router that fits it, I'd recommend the Milwaukee -- I can set up bits just as quickly and accurately as any lift with it's controls. My $.02

Rob

My .02

 

[Travis Porter]

Ditto on the Jessem mast r lift. I have it with the top and fence and they are swwweeettt.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Mike- the first question is what router are you going to use? Go with a big one like the 3 1/4 hp PC 7518 (the quasi standard)or PC 7539 (plunge), or other big, hefty, VARIABLE SPEED* router. * You may end up swinging some relatively large diam. panel raising bits and you will need to slow your router down.

Selected thoughts (pics and more details of everything upon request):

Which version? Are you building the new or old version of the NYW table? Actually, I liked some features of the older version, so I made a hybrid.

Table top- If you make your own use 2 layers of 3/4" MDF or one each of 3/4" and 1/2". Put laminate on both top and bottom suraces. They works like beam box skins to give the top more rigidity and to seal both surfaces.

Miter slot- the need for one is subject to debate. You can register sleds against the fence for just about any work (cope & stick rail ends) needing a miter slot. horizontal feather boards can be clamped to the table overhang. Unless properly supported a slot can weaken the table top.

Dust collection- personal preference, I don't like the hose running out of the back of the fence and the wye fitting hanging out of the back of the cabinet in the new NYW table, so I used the through-table fence dust port of the old NYW table. I also added angled baffles inside the cabinet to channel the dust to the DC port and prevent dust collecting in the corners. Run a minimum of 4" DC line to the router table

Fence- I will be upgrading my old style fence- making it a little higher, laminating the face, installing a feather board T-track like the newer NYW table. I also want to add a micro-adjust feature - the fence will slide or pivot on one side and micro adjust slide on the other. I really don't like Pat Warner's and the other micro-adjust fences I've seen so far.

Router lift- a must! All those mentioned here are good. Since I have a PC 7539 plunge router, I went with Wood Pecker's Plunge Lift. One negative about using a plunge router is that I had to rig a cable to release the router's plunge lock- I initially permanently rigged the router's plunge lock lever in the unlocked position, but found the Plunge Lift lead screw would slowly rotate and the router height would decrease from vibration. Though the need to do this is up for debate, I removed the plunge springs from the router. My Plunge Lift has the 32 tpi lead screw- it takes a lot of cranking to raise that sucker up high enough to change bits. See my solution next:

Power-lift- I added a coupling and shaft extension to the bottom of the Plunge Lift lead screw, ran that to a cheap HF right angle chuck then to a cheap drill. I wired the drill to a panel paddle switch and can now quickly and easily raise and lower my router by pushing a switch.

Mobility- I added two fixed casters from Hartville Tool (great BB casters at a great price) under one side of the cabinet (I removed the original axle and bracket and mounted the wheels directly to the cabinet with a bolt) and a Rockler (Delta style) step caster to the other side to make my router table mobile.

 

[MikeF]

Thanks to everyone for the comments and advise.

Alan, thanks for the extensive review on the options, I will certainly take all your points into consideration.

I do have one question regarding DC. I have read a lot that suggests running 6" from the DC to the tools. What is the importance of this, and does it hvae the same effect if you are running a lower HP system ? (Mine is only a 1hp Delta)

 

[NCPete]

I think that a 6" hose on a 1 horse unit would be counter-productive, the motor couldn't move enough air to take advantage of that size hoze.

I have a related question. Can the HF 2 hp DC move enough air to take advantage of the fact that the motor has what looks like a 6" port (split into two 4's)?

 

[Travis Porter]

Ditto on the 6" comment. 4" is going to be about all you can handle with a 1hp unit.

 

[McRabbet]

If you are installing a "permanent" duct system and ever hope to upgrade from a one tool small DC unit to a shop-wide cyclone or large capacity model, then 6" mains are the way to go. I recommend 6" S&D PVC (10' lengths with flared ends; Sanitary and Drain) because it is light and cheaper than either Schedule 40 PVC or metal duct and fittings are less expensive as well. While you'll need to buy it at a plumbing supply house (e.g., Ferguson's), some fittings are available for less money at Lowe's. You can use 6" x 4" x 6" angled tees for the drops (do not use right angle tees) to facilitate 4" drops to tools with a blast gate on each. Avoid long runs of flexible hose and tight elbows as they add extra static pressure drop. And don't cement the joints, because you may want to change your layout -- friction fit is usually adequately tight. While you may encounter some static build-up on the exterior of the PVC, a ground wire is unneeded; see the Link Library for some good DC sites. I plan to upgrade my full shop system to 6" this coming spring and a bigger DC is on the priority list.

Rob