New at dovetails

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Tom Dunn

New User
Tom Dunn
I would like to learn to hand-cut dovetails.

I have the book "Fine Woodworking on Jointery", but I found the process described in it for laying out the pins and tails kind of hard to understand.
8-O

I'm hoping someone can recommend a "beginners book' on the subject?

Thanks!
 

TV

New User
Todd Vaughn
I concur with fernhollowman. I had cut dovetails before watching the dvd by Frank. After watching, I changed and realized I had been making the process much harder than it was.

tv
 

PeteM

Pete
Corporate Member
FWIW - You can rent DVD's at Woodcraft for $3.00.

Rob Cosman has a very good series.

pete
 

gazzer

Gazzer
Corporate Member
Ian Kirby also presents some good advice. You can google him or search on Amazon to check out his publications. I have been doing a lot of practicing lately and don't know if I will ever get to the point of consistently tight DT's however I'm getting better. I'd recommend investing in a good saw and doing a lot of practice on sawing to a line.

Frank Klausz cuts his pins first but I have found that it's easier for me to do the tails first. I mark the tails with a pencil; however the pins are marked with a knife. Initially I would always saw the pins a bit thick resulting in either a lot of paring, or forcing the joint together (with a lot of spit pins). I have gotten bolder and am now sawing close enough to the line that I am getting good fits with just a bit of paring. Make sure that you mark your waste - I've been embarrassed a few times having chopped out the wrong part.

I usually chop out the waste the way Frank does. I find it easier than to use a coping saw but I think the coping saw would work better for thicker stock (I've been using 3/8 and 1/2 stock.

Also, make sure you mark your outside face surface before you start sawing (another mistake of mine - I almost started to cut pins the opposite direction than they were on the other end of the board).

As always, glue up is a stress for me.

-g
 

willarda

New User
Bill Anderson
Tom: I have been teaching handcut dovetailing in my shop (2 classes this year). Next spring I will put out my new workshop schedule and I will be doing both beginning and advanced dovetail workshops, as wwell as a wide variety of other subjects. If you have any interest, I will be happy to put you on my emailing list.
 

Tom Dunn

New User
Tom Dunn
Let me ask a question, please.

Is it easier to layout dovetails to some "end result" specific demension, as opposed to laying them out on a piece of standard width stock i.e. a 1x6?

Said another way, are there specific widths of stock that lend themselves to an easier layout?
 

Tom Dunn

New User
Tom Dunn
you just layout to fit what ever stock you need to work with.

When I trtied to do a layout on a piece of stock per the FW article, I ended up trying to measure some pretty funky dimensions, with mixed results, I might add.
New approach surely in order.......;-)
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
The only "rules" I follow in laying mine out are:
1. Not to have the base of the tails narrower than my smallest width chisel, especially with half-blinds. Using a tail base width equal to a chisel width will make it easier to chop/pare out.
2. Top and bottom will be partial pins, not tails. If they are evenly sized, I use calipers to divide it up like Mike, with 1/2 pin on top and bottom.

When doing half-blinds in a piece that has interior dadoes, I have a tail the same place as the dado, so it is hidden on the outside without having to do a stopped dado.

JMTCW
Go
 

4yanks

New User
Willie
Gofor's advice on chisel width is good. When laying out I don't measure or use dividers. I just mark out what looks good to me.
 
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