LTB - Electric Chainsaw Sharpener

[Dusty Sawyer]

I am looking for an electric chainsaw sharpener - preferably the type that uses a thin grinding wheel.

Thanks,

David

 

[Travis Porter]

I got one for about $20, a McCullough (spelling) that runs on a 12V battery from sears.

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

Do you have any pics or a link to what it looks like ?

Thanks

 

[Travis Porter]

Here is the one I have. Couldn't find it at Sears.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...ven=TL&cm_cat=ERK&cm_pla=Yahoo&cm_ite=Logging

 

[Bernhard]

Bought one from Harbor Freight quite awhile ago. Runs on line voltage, it is called 'Nick the Grinder', made in Italy was about $79 on sale and works well. Meanwhile the HF offers a reversed engineered copy `Made in China` for about $39 on sale at regular intervalls, the replacement grinding wheel is $9.99. The version that I have works well, but if used for all sharpening, you will shorten chain life a lot. I usually touch up the chain with a file and guide (Stihl guide) every time I fill up the saw. Once I get some nicks in the chain, I grind it.

PS The Stihl dealer on Raleigh on Morgan St has a half price sale on Stihl chains and other accessories every fall (October??). I usually stock up at that time.

Bernhard

 

[dick541]

If you have a dremal, they have a grinding wheel and guide for about $19.00 as I remember from way back. It did a good quick job of bringing a chain back to life.

dick

 

[sapwood]

The Dremel (or any rotary tool) with the approporiate sized grinding stone works great for me! It only takes a few minutes to "touch up" the blade and IMHO you don't need a guide. It's pretty easy to line up the stone with the tooth.

Roger

 

[McRabbet]

The Dremel (or any rotary tool) with the appropriate sized grinding stone works great for me! It only takes a few minutes to "touch up" the blade and IMHO you don't need a guide. It's pretty easy to line up the stone with the tooth.

Roger

Roger, and others: I use a Dremel tool as well, but here's a hint to help keep the teeth at a constant angle without a guide (always the best method). I tighten the blade so there is no slop as one normally has when cutting; this keep the teeth from canting to the side as you sharpen. This also work when using a round file. I always start at the first tooth past the index point (chain symmetry changes) and do all the teeth on one side and then repeat for the second side. If you angles are consistent, the saw will cut straight as an cleaver. BTW, don't forget to reset the blade tension when you finish to reduce bar wear.

HTH -- Rob