Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Rob, Is the tilt preference/safety issue based on whether you're right or left handed???
Roger
Rob, Is the tilt preference/safety issue based on whether you're right or left handed???
Roger
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Re: Tablesaw Shopping
I always thought it was because of ripping bevels with the fence to the right of the saw (normal) with the blade tilted towards the fence (right tilt) that the scrap could become trapped and kicked back. Left tilt doesn't have this problem.
I always thought it was because of ripping bevels with the fence to the right of the saw (normal) with the blade tilted towards the fence (right tilt) that the scrap could become trapped and kicked back. Left tilt doesn't have this problem.
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Hmmm, but you could move the fence to the left of the blade to effect the same results. Of course, there is less CI surface left of blade :eusa_thin
Oops, sorry for the hijack. :roll:
Roger
Hmmm, but you could move the fence to the left of the blade to effect the same results. Of course, there is less CI surface left of blade :eusa_thin
Oops, sorry for the hijack. :roll:
Roger
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
With a right tilt, you need to move the fence to the left of the blade for safety like DavidF mentions, and that severly limits the size piece that you can cut a bevel on. With a left tilt you have the same cut capacity as normal. Now the way you hold/tilt your head while sticking out your tongue, to get a straight cut is complete up to you :lol::lol::lol::lol:
Dave
With a right tilt, you need to move the fence to the left of the blade for safety like DavidF mentions, and that severly limits the size piece that you can cut a bevel on. With a left tilt you have the same cut capacity as normal. Now the way you hold/tilt your head while sticking out your tongue, to get a straight cut is complete up to you :lol::lol::lol::lol:
Dave
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Hit the nail on the head there Roger - not enough room to the left of the blade.
Hit the nail on the head there Roger - not enough room to the left of the blade.
M
McRabbet
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Rob
David is correct concerning the safety factor -- and IMHO, no one in their right mind ever moves a fence to the left of the blade. I've never done it on any saw I've owned (including right-tilt) and I don't know of anyone that ever has either. But DaveO is also right; proper tongue position does have an influence on straight cuts!:lol: :lol:With a right tilt, you need to move the fence to the left of the blade for safety like DavidF mentions, and that severely limits the size piece that you can cut a bevel on. With a left tilt you have the same cut capacity as normal. Now the way you hold/tilt your head while sticking out your tongue, to get a straight cut is complete up to you :lol::lol::lol::lol:
Dave
Rob
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Every beveled cut I have made using the fence on my table saw, the fence was placed to the left of the blade. If not then the piece being cut gets trapped between the baled and the fence and that doesn't sound very safe. My blade tilts right.
"Some saws tilt to the right; others tilt to the left. Hands down, we prefer left-tilt saws. They're safer and easier to use when making bevel cuts (Photo 1). To avoid kickbacks and to make the cleanest cut possible, the blade of your saw should always be tilted away from the fence. On a right-tilt saw, that means moving the fence to the other side of the blade, an unfamiliar position. Here the cutting capacity is only 8- to 16-in. wide. On a left-tilt saw, you leave the fence in the normal position. Capacity is 26 to 52 in., depending on the length of your rails."
Quoted from http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/product_review.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=791.
Not the perfect scenario, but better than a kick back in the crotch.
Dave
Every beveled cut I have made using the fence on my table saw, the fence was placed to the left of the blade. If not then the piece being cut gets trapped between the baled and the fence and that doesn't sound very safe. My blade tilts right.
"Some saws tilt to the right; others tilt to the left. Hands down, we prefer left-tilt saws. They're safer and easier to use when making bevel cuts (Photo 1). To avoid kickbacks and to make the cleanest cut possible, the blade of your saw should always be tilted away from the fence. On a right-tilt saw, that means moving the fence to the other side of the blade, an unfamiliar position. Here the cutting capacity is only 8- to 16-in. wide. On a left-tilt saw, you leave the fence in the normal position. Capacity is 26 to 52 in., depending on the length of your rails."
Quoted from http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/product_review.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=791.
Not the perfect scenario, but better than a kick back in the crotch.
Dave
M
McRabbet
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Guess I now know someone who has done it -- and for good reason -- it just constrains the size of cut and the fence setting needs to be made without the measuring tape....Rob
Guess I now know someone who has done it -- and for good reason -- it just constrains the size of cut and the fence setting needs to be made without the measuring tape....Rob
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
It's not the ideal word, but when I got my Griz 0444Z, they weren't offering it in a left tilt...now they do :BangHead: I can rip up to 14" with the fence to the left of the blade. I make cross cuts on the other side, because there is no chance of binding without the fence.
Dave
It's not the ideal word, but when I got my Griz 0444Z, they weren't offering it in a left tilt...now they do :BangHead: I can rip up to 14" with the fence to the left of the blade. I make cross cuts on the other side, because there is no chance of binding without the fence.
Dave
T
toolferone
Re: Tablesaw Shopping
Okay I will chim in on the tilt issue. I own a right tilt and love it. I have and do move the fence to the left of the blade for small items and raised panels with no problem. You do have to get used to a different feed position. Another thing I don't think I saw mentioned here is when using a dado blade with a rt tilt you still have use of the cursor on your fence because the first blade lines up the same place as a single does. On a lt tilt you loose the use of the cursor as soon as you add the second blade plus any and all chippers. I feel that the kick back issue (left safer?) is important but not as important as having a properly adjusted blade and fence and any saftey devices. Remember kick back occurs at any angle including 90 degrees which is where must of us do most of our cutting.
When a customer comes in looking for a saw I ask wht kind of saw the use now and often suggest staying with the same tilt. That all being said, left tilts are now the choice 99% of the time I sell a saw.
Okay I will chim in on the tilt issue. I own a right tilt and love it. I have and do move the fence to the left of the blade for small items and raised panels with no problem. You do have to get used to a different feed position. Another thing I don't think I saw mentioned here is when using a dado blade with a rt tilt you still have use of the cursor on your fence because the first blade lines up the same place as a single does. On a lt tilt you loose the use of the cursor as soon as you add the second blade plus any and all chippers. I feel that the kick back issue (left safer?) is important but not as important as having a properly adjusted blade and fence and any saftey devices. Remember kick back occurs at any angle including 90 degrees which is where must of us do most of our cutting.
When a customer comes in looking for a saw I ask wht kind of saw the use now and often suggest staying with the same tilt. That all being said, left tilts are now the choice 99% of the time I sell a saw.
For the first 20 years of my woodworking I used a left tilt saw and thought that it was the best way to go because of all the reasons listed in this thread. But for the last 10 years I have been using a right tilt saw and I will NEVER go back to left tilt. It took me about 2 weeks with my right tilt to decide that this was the way it is supposed to be.
I have moved the fence to the left of the blade for cutting small items. But large items (anything larger than a couple of inches) can be cut at a 45 degree angle with the fence right of the blade with no problem or no more danger than cutting at 90 degrees if everything is set up right.
With my right tilt no matter what blade I used even a dado the fence and tape are always right. With my old left tilt I keep a ruler tied to the fence as I had to measure everything.
Bob
I have moved the fence to the left of the blade for cutting small items. But large items (anything larger than a couple of inches) can be cut at a 45 degree angle with the fence right of the blade with no problem or no more danger than cutting at 90 degrees if everything is set up right.
With my right tilt no matter what blade I used even a dado the fence and tape are always right. With my old left tilt I keep a ruler tied to the fence as I had to measure everything.
Bob
Personally I think it boils down to what works for the craftsperson using the saw in his/her shop. Its almost and endless debate, that can be added with the other ones like dovetails, "should one do the pins or tails first?" Both sides give strong reasons that make since. I have a left tilt right now and am happy with it, I have had right tilts too. For me its not letting the tool limit my creative process because of a limitation, that’s why as artist woodworker's we make so many jigs to broaden the use of a tool. If you have a right tilt saw and want to increase the size of work done on it use a sliding table to support larger material like this one http://www.songofthegreatlakes.com/slidingtable.htm If you have a left you can still add a sliding table for accuracy, there is really no way to loose. Just my thoughts, God bless friends.
M
McRabbet
Hey Michael,
Would you please add that link to the Jigs & Fixtures Category of the Links Library? It looks real useful! Thanks and be safe!
Rob
Would you please add that link to the Jigs & Fixtures Category of the Links Library? It looks real useful! Thanks and be safe!
Rob
Sure will friend,
Be blessed
Be blessed
Along the lines of sliding table attachments, I've looked at this one more than a few times.
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/SurveyOfSlidingTables/surveyofslidingtables.html
Also, note the linked .pdf on that site for somebody who got creative and installed the DeWalt sliding table to a Unisaw...
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/SurveyOfSlidingTables/surveyofslidingtables.html
Also, note the linked .pdf on that site for somebody who got creative and installed the DeWalt sliding table to a Unisaw...
When I started selling saws (5) years ago, the Left Tilt saw was beginning to come in "vogue" so to speak. You'll find saws that tilt left from the 60's on, but they weren't as popular as they are now. The main reason I was given for the increased popularity is safety for (2) operations. The largest safety reason is kickback. With the advent of BIESMEYER style fences that do not move when locked in place if a piece gets in a bind on a right tilt kick back is a serious issue. With a left tilt saw when the piece gets in a bind you get a ruined cut but less danger of kickback. It is also safer when beveling small pieces since the blade is tilted away from the hand when pushing through. These are the (2) lines I was given as a saleman. I haven't used both kinds enought to venture a personal opinion other than what I've read in magazine reviews to this same effect.
phil
phil
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