Learned something about hot iron/PVA veneering!

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I've done a fair amount of this, but always with TB3. I bought Heat Lock glue after reading about it and thought "why not?"

What I found out is the glue pulls pretty badly. I suspect TB3 does, too so I'm not faulting the glue necessarily. I veneered some bookmatch door panels and surprised to see the seams pulled apart on all the ones I hot ironed, but not on the two I hammer veneered. Not huge, but enough that it might not be tolerable.

Joe at Veneer Supplies comfirmed this and suggested a technique where you put a coat hanger wire under the seam to dome it up a little. That doesn't seem like a good solution to me!

I thought about ripping the panel in half with a Japanese saw and reglue, but I didn't.

So beware of this if you're going to try it.

Looking back, I should have stuck with the hammer veneering, but just wanted to try it.
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danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
With hide glue, you can re-heat many times not just once. PVA has a track record of failing a year down the road on projects.

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This was a hammer project on a large scale. I used 192gram and 256gram mixed and a hammer. The small table is 38" wide and 60" long. I did have to go back and iron down some spots and clamp it for a short period.
 
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mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
"There is no such thing as a failed experiment, only experiments with unexpected outcomes." - Richard Buckminster Fuller
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Weith hide glue, you can re-heat many times not just once. PVA has a track record of failing a year down the road on projects.
Hmm. Not been my experience. I’ve got pieces over 6 years old no issues. No not decades, guess we’ll see. Got any sources in that?

I’ve reheated PVA many times to tack down a corner or a seam.
 

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