Fixing poor drywall finishing

[TheyCallMeTex]

Hi y'all, im repainting our dining room (ceiling, trim, and walls) and I'm not a pro so I use tape.

When I was pulling the tape off the ceiling, it looks like I tore off an old patch job? Or maybe I just screwed something up (likely!).

(Also, yes, there is A LOT of touch up work to do, as I said I'm no pro )

I just need help knowing how to fix it.

I think I should scrape off the old surface then spray some new surfacing on it (I have a can). I've seen people sanding with a damp sponge as well, I guess this can smoothe the transition?

Also, is there something I can do *before I tape* (other than "learn to cut in bro") that will prevent this?

Any other advice? I really appreciate it, I've always wanted to learn how to do this stuff.

Thanks in advance y'all!

 

[Oka]

The easy quick way is just to cut free the the affected areas by using a utility knife then use a grip (bonding) type primer, then mud over with joint compound. Then, sand, damp sponge to blend out. If the finish is heavy looking paint (looks to be the case, the experiment with adding some compound to the paint to thicken (try a small cup test) If the area is really damaged alot, then the same but flat tape. However, if you flat tape you may need to pull the crown moulding in order to assure the mould edge line stays straight and true.
You could do it without priming it, but often with older already painted finishes surrounding, it likely with flash, meaning even though you did everything right the light catches it and you still see the repair.
The eye is the final judge. Hope that helps

 

[Gotcha6]

Was the original ceiling paint oil based? If so, a latex applied over it will not adhere without the proper primer, like Oka said. Proper sanding between coats is also essential. The new finish needs something to 'bite' to. As for the tape, I find Frog Tape works the best, but I have had problems even with it on water based polyurethane varnish when cutting veneered doors.

 

[TheyCallMeTex]

Thanks for the tips @Oka I appreciate it!

 

[JimD]

That is not a drywall problem, that is all paint. You have to remove the loose paint and then create a taper to hide the thickness difference. I would probably use "Fast and Final" spackle. You could use a putty knife to fill the area with spackle, let it dry, and then lightly sand and paint. I agree, primer first would be best. I always use latex primer and paint. Good primer will bond to oil based paint (if that is what you have).

I would also invest in a trim brush. You will not get perfect results at first but tape does not always give you perfect results either. If you want to continue to use tape you might think about changing brands.

 

[TheyCallMeTex]

I ran out of frog tape and had to use another brand. Not sure what the original paint was, but everything I have right now is water.

Thanks for all the tips y'all!

 

[Gotcha6]

I thought I was looking at old drywall in the original photo, but a closeup reveals that there is no drywall exposed, and the paint is peeling back from the last 3 layers. Not a drywall problem, but definitely a substrate issue. All layers appear to be textured paint. If you decide to float out the defect with 20 minute mud or spackle, be advised they will 'flash' the finish and soak up the paint. Best to spot prime them, or do a final skim coat with regular drywall compound.

 

[Oka]

If you think the existing paint is oil base then you can zip prime it or shellac it, more or less the same thing, that will allow water base to adhere to it. However, Dennis makes a good point if the top coat is oil base, then you will need to reprime the entire ceiling and repaint.