finish advise for small turned items, (bottle stoppers, small handles, etc)

[HMH]

Afternoon all - I just setup a small lathe kit, primarily for my oldest son (13), and the 2 of us, (hopefully), will be tearing in over the next few weeks making several small items for Christmas gifts, (pens, bottle stoppers, and bottle openers) for friends/ family.

That said - I've always used simple CA finishes for pens w/ good results, and will here again - with my question being more for the bottle-stoppers, handles, etc in this case.

Ultimately looking for something A) attractive w/ a medium to slightly glossy sheen, B) easy(ish) to apply, (i.e. so easy that an inexperienced 13 year old can do it after some coaching) and C) durable - I understand that it's generally a compromise for picking 2 of those 3, but seeing how close I can get.

I'm also debating picking up 1 of the PSI buffing systems - not looking to go TOOO heavy down the turning rabbit hole until my son's interest is determined, but a buffer would be handy to have around the shop for me too!

Any advise from the experienced turners in the group? Stick w/ CA, or a maybe a hard wax based finish?

The wood species in question for this initial exercise range from domestics like Birds eye maple and cherry to exotics like purpleheart, bloodwood, bubibga, etc.

Thanks all!

 

[Mike Davis]

Wax is easy but not terribly durable, looks good and is easy to redo when needed.

I use spray can clear enamel on handles and shop tools.

Anything that contacts food gets several coats of organic flax seed oil like you see at the health food store.

 

[Berta]

I have used something called friction polish. It was easy. I am NOT a regular turner.
I have made a few things on the lathe.

 

[areevesnc]

For ornamental items and tool handles, I’ve come to really like wipe-on shellac and paste wax. Fast, easy, and relatively safe to apply, and doesn’t “hide” the wood. It accents the natural grain without obscuring it, and gives a nice sheen without looking artificial.

The finish is not the most durable, and I wouldn’t use it for food contact (more because the finish probably wouldn’t hold up, not because it’s unsafe), but it looks and feels great, at least in my opinion.

 

[Charlie]

I would use oil based Minwax wipe on poly. Put it on with a rag.
Pretty much fool proof.
That's what I use on all of my segmented turnings.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would use oil based Minwax wipe on poly. Put it on with a rag.
Pretty much fool proof.
That's what I use on all of my segmented turnings.

That’s what I use on my boxes and furniture.
Sometimes I want to be done in 10 minutes, that’s when I use the spray clear.

 

[HMH]

Great advise - thanks all! I like the speed of the spray enamel/ lacquer for sure Mike - but Charlie, your endorsement for a simple wipe-on poly is well received! A friction finish/ shellac would look great as well, but if these stoppers are ultimately used for wine/ alcohol, I'm afraid the alcohol would probably break that finish down rather quickly if/ when it came in contact.

Since we will be batching these out, speed of finishing is a consideration - although I suppose I could sand everything, and maybe hit w/ a coat of sanding sealer while on the lathe, and then make a simple stand/ drying rack, and finish several stoppers at once. Going w/ the poly route, I could also buff them out individually after the poly cures to get them glass smooth.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[Hmerkle]

@HMH
Heath, I like the Shellawax product (friction polish)

Shellawax Friction Polish 8 oz

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop is full line distributor of woodworking tools and supplies from respected companies like Klingspor Abrasives.

www.woodworkingshop.com

It's like Franks - I put that $#!t on everything! LOL (pens, letter openers, bottle stoppers... etc.)

I think the Mylands (friction polish [I have heard] is good too...)

I JUST bought Doctor's Woodshop high build friction polish from Woodcraft but have not tried it yet...

Doctor's Woodshop Doctor's Woodshop High Build Friction Polish - Gloss - 16 oz | Woodcraft

Buy the Doctor's Woodshop High Build Friction Polish - Gloss - 16 oz for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!

www.woodcraft.com

 

[HITCH-]

Waterlox is easy to apply and extremely durable.
I like it for woodturning items that are handled frequently.

 

[ScottM]

Great advise - thanks all! I like the speed of the spray enamel/ lacquer for sure Mike - but Charlie, your endorsement for a simple wipe-on poly is well received! A friction finish/ shellac would look great as well, but if these stoppers are ultimately used for wine/ alcohol, I'm afraid the alcohol would probably break that finish down rather quickly if/ when it came in contact.

Since we will be batching these out, speed of finishing is a consideration - although I suppose I could sand everything, and maybe hit w/ a coat of sanding sealer while on the lathe, and then make a simple stand/ drying rack, and finish several stoppers at once. Going w/ the poly route, I could also buff them out individually after the poly cures to get them glass smooth.

Thanks for the tips!

If you are going to use wipe on poly, a very good choice, I would first apply a small amount of BLO. This will “pop” the grain better than poly alone. Apply while still on the lathe and burnish with a clean cloth or paper towel before adding the poly.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

I make a lot of pens, stoppers and things of that sort. For small, wood turnings I use Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus almost exclusively. It is a hard wax friction polish that offers surprising durability and the piece retains the feel of it being wood and looking like wood. I will normally apply 3 coats, 4 if it is something that will get a lot of abuse and the finish isn't sticky or messy like others. The finish goes on quickly, smoothly and builds evenly getting a uniform finish that doesn't require a lot of time. My daily use pen, which I made several years ago, has the Pens Plus and it still look really good minus a few dents in the wood from being dropped and used. The other finishes from the company are also very high quality and he has some that are food safe, the guy is a retired chemical engineer.

I do not like to use CA finishes because it makes the piece look like plastic more than wood. The drawback to the finishes like poly is they can look like plastic on small items and take time to dry which extends the finish time without a better finish in this scenario. I've used others like Mylands and others which are often sticky or messy and require more coats.

If you are talking about resin/cast pieces I would say go with Magic Juice friction polish from Stadium Pen Blanks.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

@HMH
Heath, I like the Shellawax product (friction polish)

Shellawax Friction Polish 8 oz

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop is full line distributor of woodworking tools and supplies from respected companies like Klingspor Abrasives.

www.woodworkingshop.com

It's like Franks - I put that $#!t on everything! LOL (pens, letter openers, bottle stoppers... etc.)

I think the Mylands (friction polish [I have heard] is good too...)

I JUST bought Doctor's Woodshop high build friction polish from Woodcraft but have not tried it yet...

Doctor's Woodshop Doctor's Woodshop High Build Friction Polish - Gloss - 16 oz | Woodcraft

Buy the Doctor's Woodshop High Build Friction Polish - Gloss - 16 oz for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!

www.woodcraft.com

Doctor's Woodshop products are AMAZING, I use the Pens Plus almost exclusively on wood turnings that are smaller. I have his food safe bowl finish as well, I really like it. These prudocts give a uniform and even finsh that is suprisingly long lasting and durable. Not a big fan of Mylands, it is really sticky/messy and requires more coats than Doctor's products.

 

[HMH]

Thanks! I really like the ease of application/ short drying time I’ve read about w/ a friction finish, but how do you think it would hold up on a bottle stopper/ potentially in contact w/ alcohol? Being shellac based, I’m assuming alcohol would break it down quickly, though the waxes may help w/ a bit of a barrier.

That said, honestly, I don’t know many folks who actually use bottle stoppers to store wine, (open the bottle, drink the bottle, ha). I’ll be gifting the stoppers w/ bottles of a nice balsamic vinegar, and/or olive oil that my wife swears by, so all of that to say, alcohol contact may not be a concern.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

Thanks! I really like the ease of application/ short drying time I’ve read about w/ a friction finish, but how do you think it would hold up on a bottle stopper/ potentially in contact w/ alcohol? Being shellac based, I’m assuming alcohol would break it down quickly, though the waxes may help w/ a bit of a barrier.

That said, honestly, I don’t know many folks who actually use bottle stoppers to store wine, (open the bottle, drink the bottle, ha). I’ll be gifting the stoppers w/ bottles of a nice balsamic vinegar, and/or olive oil that my wife swears by, so all of that to say, alcohol contact may not be a concern.

I would suggest you try the Doctor's Woodshop Pens Plus. Using friction to heat the oils so they harden dries them basically instantly once heated up. Each additional coat just makes it a thicker and more durable finish. My recommendation is go to the products main page and watch his videos about how to use the products and how they are made. They offer a lot more information than most other places to include a chart for what products to use when. I use the walnut oil to create a hard, polymerized base before applying Pens Plus and wet sand with it on occasionally as well because it helps fill pours or imperfections. I really cannot speak highly enough of this brand.

I do not see the vinegar/alcohol being an issue with the finish or damaging the finish. The waxes should not be affected by those and lets be honest, anything soaking in vinegar or alcohols will break down over time. Hopefully no one will leave the items you make to do that. Link to site below.

Woodturning finishes from Doctor's Woodshop > Home

Doctor's Woodshop produces custom friction polishes and woodturning finishes based on Walnut Oil.

www.doctorswoodshop.com

 

[Warren]

I do mostly bowls on the lathe and don't use al lot of finishes. However, I have the 'PSI buffing system and it is a worthwhile purchase for finishing any item including briar pipes.

 

[iclark]

Buffing systems are a good way to launch small turned pieces across the room. Wear a faceshield at the buffer just as you would at the lathe. Also, most buffing wheels do not reach into tight grooves or coves.

So, doing your finish on the lathe through finishing and buffing is a good idea. With a little tenting, you can even do rattle can finishes on the lathe while it is turning at slow speed and then you can buff it, wax it, and polish it after the rattle can stuff dries (which is quick).

CA finish on the lathe can get messy in a hurry. Having the CA spun off the piece onto your faceshield can mess up the shield in a hurry. DAMHIK

I tried Deft as a wipe-on for some highly-figured maple. That was a bad choice as the wood soaked up so much that it really darkened and the figure is much less visible.

I use a lot of Mahoney's (sp) Walnut Oil. It does not give a glossy finish, but it is easy and works for me. One of the ornaments that I make is the Christmas tree shape that is turned using the same technique as a honey-dipper. That makes getting finish down into deep grooves very important for me. Spray does not work. I use a narrow strip of cloth saturated with oil and then turn the lathe by hand with one hand while the other hand gets the cloth down into the groove,

Based on the discusion here, I will pick up some Minwax wipe-on poly for the next time that I get some shop time.

 

[ScottM]

Thanks! I really like the ease of application/ short drying time I’ve read about w/ a friction finish, but how do you think it would hold up on a bottle stopper/ potentially in contact w/ alcohol? Being shellac based, I’m assuming alcohol would break it down quickly, though the waxes may help w/ a bit of a barrier.

That said, honestly, I don’t know many folks who actually use bottle stoppers to store wine, (open the bottle, drink the bottle, ha). I’ll be gifting the stoppers w/ bottles of a nice balsamic vinegar, and/or olive oil that my wife swears by, so all of that to say, alcohol contact may not be a concern.

Heath, take it from someone who makes and uses wine stoppers. Tall fancy stoppers don’t work well. At least not for folks who put bottles in the fridge. Compact stoppers are the ticket.

 

[AllanD]

I use friction polish for most all of those small items like bottle stoppers and such. It may not be as tough but sure is quick and easy.