determining finish

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rhett

New User
rhett
I am going to respray a coffee table of mine, but do not know what the finish is. I do not want to strip, just scuff up the existing finish and clean it up. My only clue is that if you leave cold drinks on it, they form a white ring that disappeares once the spot warms up again. My thought is some sort of shellac or laquer.
 

PeteM

Pete
Corporate Member
Just rub the finish with some DNA. If it softens it's shellac.
If not try some lacquer thinner. If that softens it it's lacquer.

pete
 

Wildwood

New User
Wildwood
May or may not be a bigger concern, has that coffee table ever been sprayed with Spray Wax which contains silicon?

Silicone can really mess up a refinishing job!

A good coat or coats of paste wax can be less work, if finish isn't completely shot.

Hope someone here can pipe up and give you a fix for silicon before you attempt to refinish.
 

rhett

New User
rhett
Just rub the finish with some DNA. If it softens it's shellac.
If not try some lacquer thinner. If that softens it it's lacquer.

pete


That makes sence, I'll try that first. I definately have little to no knowledge when it comes to refinishing things.
 

rhett

New User
rhett
May or may not be a bigger concern, has that coffee table ever been sprayed with Spray Wax which contains silicon?

Silicone can really mess up a refinishing job!

A good coat or coats of paste wax can be less work, if finish isn't completely shot.

Hope someone here can pipe up and give you a fix for silicon before you attempt to refinish.

I have put some Howards feed and wax on the table. Shouldn't mineral spirits clean off any residual wax? I would hate to get fish eye in my finish.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
>> Hope someone here can pipe up and give you a fix for silicon before you attempt to refinish.

Silicone contamination is always problematic. If moisture is easily going through the existing finish as evidenced by the water ring problem, then silicone containing supermarket polish or dusting products is probably not just on the surface but into the wood also.

There is no 100% process that will totally eliminate silicone. Normally the best process starts with a complete stripping of the original surface using a chemical paint remover containing methylene chloride which is something said you don't want to do.

More risky is to first wash the surface with TSP or other strong detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Then use mineral spirits applied with a green scotchbrite pad. Before the MS dries, wipe it totally dry using lots of paper towels. Keep a fresh face on the towels or all you will be doing is spreading the gunk around. Do the same thing a second time. Now, very lightly sand with 220 paper.

Go to the store and get a couple of cans of Zinsser Spray Can shellac. Lightly spray the surface, let it dry and spray a somewhat heavier coat. Let it fully dry and DO NOT SAND. The shellac is creating a barrier coat the is intended to isolate any residual silicone that may still be on, or in, the surface. Once the shellac is dry, you can apply the first coat of whatever you want for a final finish. Only then can you sand the surface but be careful not to sand through the finish or you will have a path for the silicone to affect the next coat. This process will generally give you a satisfactory result.
 

rhett

New User
rhett
Thanks for your knowledgeable input Howard. I would be lying if I said I wasn't scared to tackel this project now. I would sincerely hate to ruin this nice burley maple classic modern coffee table. For now I will just rub it out with 0000 steel wool and wax it as previously suggested, and save the finishing for raw wood.
 
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