- Status
When I don't want to use my sprayer, I cut the poly 50% with thinner and wipe it on with t-shirt material. Takes twice as many coats, but much less sanding in between.
David
David
You are quite far down my "List of People to Ignore"! :lol:
I don't know much about brushs in general, so I'm assuming theres a big difference in what might be preferred. I tend to "cheap-out" when buying brushes, but I know there are a lot of variables, as in "China Bristle" or whatever.....
I don't know much about brushs in general, so I'm assuming theres a big difference in what might be preferred. I tend to "cheap-out" when buying brushes, but I know there are a lot of variables, as in "China Bristle" or whatever.....
I use a real good (dedicated) china bristle brush.
If this is too much trouble, I often use the Minwax wipe-on poly (FWW gave it very high marks in a recent test/comparison). You'll need at least 3 maybe 4 coats to get the same results as above but it's much easier...especially for chairs and other pieces that have turnings or rungs.
Good luck
Dan C.
- Soak the brush first in min spirits,
- Warm the can of poly (I put the can in a pot of already hot water (Never put the poly near or on an open flame) for a bout 5 mins,
- Open the poly and thin slightly w/min spirits (no more than 5-10% and stir gently,
- Lay the poly on with long gentle stokes.
If this is too much trouble, I often use the Minwax wipe-on poly (FWW gave it very high marks in a recent test/comparison). You'll need at least 3 maybe 4 coats to get the same results as above but it's much easier...especially for chairs and other pieces that have turnings or rungs.
Good luck
Dan C.
I have become a big fan of the T shirt method and have gotten great results.
Like David, I use a old T shirt perferably washed several (meaning many) times to remove all traces of lint.
I then dilute my polyurethane down with mineral spirits in the summer and naptha in the winter to allow it to dry a little faster. As I apply more coats, I "freshen" my mix with more poly to increase the amount as I go through my finishing process. It takes a toal of 5 maybe six coats to complete a project but the finish goes on very fast and the first few coats can go on the same day.
I get flawless finishes which is saying something given my limited talent. The real trick is to make sure your T shirt is old and well washed.
Like David, I use a old T shirt perferably washed several (meaning many) times to remove all traces of lint.
I then dilute my polyurethane down with mineral spirits in the summer and naptha in the winter to allow it to dry a little faster. As I apply more coats, I "freshen" my mix with more poly to increase the amount as I go through my finishing process. It takes a toal of 5 maybe six coats to complete a project but the finish goes on very fast and the first few coats can go on the same day.
I get flawless finishes which is saying something given my limited talent. The real trick is to make sure your T shirt is old and well washed.
For large, flat surfaces, I use a roller. This leaves bubbles, so I then go over it with a high-quality brush. This allows me to get a lot of poly down quickly without pooling, dripping etc. It also reduces brush marks, since the whole surface is wet.
For smaller and curved surfaces, wipe-on is the way to go. I bought a can of the Minwax wipe-on poly, and it works great. I'm told it is ordinary poly thinned 50% with mineral spirits. So I'm keeping the can and I'll refill it with my own cheaper brew.
Wipe-on dries fast, so less chance of dust settling. But you need double if not triple the coats. Occasionally, I'll use some #0000 steel wool between coats to get rid of any nubs. T-shirts, painter's rags, shop rags etc. all work well, as long as it's lint-free.
For smaller and curved surfaces, wipe-on is the way to go. I bought a can of the Minwax wipe-on poly, and it works great. I'm told it is ordinary poly thinned 50% with mineral spirits. So I'm keeping the can and I'll refill it with my own cheaper brew.
Wipe-on dries fast, so less chance of dust settling. But you need double if not triple the coats. Occasionally, I'll use some #0000 steel wool between coats to get rid of any nubs. T-shirts, painter's rags, shop rags etc. all work well, as long as it's lint-free.
Tom: I have had good luck with the Purdy Chinese Bristle brushes and the Wooster Pro Classic White China bristle brushes. They are not superior quality, but get better the more you use them as the ends of the bristles wear thinner and start to flag. (In a fine finish brush, split-ends are a good thing). There are better quality brushes out there available in dedicated paint stores, but they want premium price, so I usually buy mine a Lowes.
For flat surfaces a straight 2 or 3" brush is my choice. For interiors and around mouldings, etc, I prefer a 2" sash brush (the one with the angled end).
The new brush gets used to apply the first coats, and the "broken in" one is used for the final coat(s).
When I have the time, my favorite application method is to thin with 1/3 MS, or mix the poly 1-1-1 with MS and BLO. I apply with the brush and then wipe it off with a folded rag after it has had a chance to soak in. For me, this is the best way to avoid runs, drips, and holidays, but takes longer due to needing more coats to get a good build (5 - 6 coats versus 2-3 with unthinned brush application).
Hope this helps answer your question.
Go
For flat surfaces a straight 2 or 3" brush is my choice. For interiors and around mouldings, etc, I prefer a 2" sash brush (the one with the angled end).
The new brush gets used to apply the first coats, and the "broken in" one is used for the final coat(s).
When I have the time, my favorite application method is to thin with 1/3 MS, or mix the poly 1-1-1 with MS and BLO. I apply with the brush and then wipe it off with a folded rag after it has had a chance to soak in. For me, this is the best way to avoid runs, drips, and holidays, but takes longer due to needing more coats to get a good build (5 - 6 coats versus 2-3 with unthinned brush application).
Hope this helps answer your question.
Go
If you want thin coats, cotton knit fabric works great with thinned oil based poly. If you want to build the finish deeper and quicker use a foam applicator with 75 poly/25 thinner. Foam leaves less bubbles, hence nips to sand out, than any brush I've ever used.
The easiest finish of this type I've used without spraying is Waterlox applied with foam. Gel poly's are not bad either.
Rob
The easiest finish of this type I've used without spraying is Waterlox applied with foam. Gel poly's are not bad either.
Rob
After reading the posts already made, not much I can add. Sounds like all the methods will work----so I guess it is finishers choice. I use the wipe on method using an old t-shirt after thinning the urethane with MS. Sometimes I add BLO or tung oil to the mixture.
I do sand or "rub out" between every coat--------giving it 24 hours between coats and 72 hours after the last coat before putting the item in use. The number of coats depends on the depth of finish I see---------if I like it I quit adding coats of finish. Usually runs 3 to 5 coats.
Jerry
I do sand or "rub out" between every coat--------giving it 24 hours between coats and 72 hours after the last coat before putting the item in use. The number of coats depends on the depth of finish I see---------if I like it I quit adding coats of finish. Usually runs 3 to 5 coats.
Jerry
I think anything I would have said has been covered.
Some people make their own poly or varnish mixes- 1/3 poly, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 thinner. some use Naptha in place of the thinner (flashes off slower or faster than thinner, I can't remember.) There are as many custom mixes as WW "experts." I believe they rub on many of these poly mixes.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but isn't wiping poly just thinned poly?
Some people make their own poly or varnish mixes- 1/3 poly, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 thinner. some use Naptha in place of the thinner (flashes off slower or faster than thinner, I can't remember.) There are as many custom mixes as WW "experts." I believe they rub on many of these poly mixes.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but isn't wiping poly just thinned poly?
I use a method featured in an issue of FWW a few years ago and achieve excellent results. First coat thinned and wipped on as previously stated. Follow up coats are with a cheap foam brush. I dip it half in and dab the surface every 6" along my intended brush stroke. This puts poly along the path and keeps a wet stroke. Re dip the applicator and apply. The overlap between strokes is approx 1/8". Sand w/ 220 between coats. Always starts with high gloss and use your desired sheen level for the final. Got to give credit to Garret Hack for that one.
I can see a posting from Howard A in our future...:lol::lol: Or just find his last one on this subject:lol: One day I'll print it out and stick it on the shop wall!
With oil-based poly, I've had good results from Purdy's White China series. When I replaced our bathroom door, I took my time and sanded lightly w/ 220 between coats - 3 coats total. My BIL thought it was an expensive pre-finished job.
The wipe-on method is my choice on small projects. "Rags-in-a-box" also works well as an applicator. Medium to large projects I use my HVLP sprayer
I hate brushes, I hated them as an fine arts major in college. That's why I became an engraver, NO BRUSHES! When I picked up woodworking as a hobby I learned to hate them even more. Hairy little buggers.
Rick Doby
I hate brushes, I hated them as an fine arts major in college. That's why I became an engraver, NO BRUSHES! When I picked up woodworking as a hobby I learned to hate them even more. Hairy little buggers.
Rick Doby
I was thinking the same thing!! Howard has forgotten more than I will ever know about finishing.
>> All the tips and tricks of getting a nice finish on polyurethane aside, what is the preffered applicator or whatever for a brush-on finish?
First, I would start with a better finish. Poly is relatively soft, has an amber cast and does not dry as clear as other finishes. It's fine on floors or everyday kitchen tables. For any nice project, I would use a non-poly varnish like Waterlox Original, Behlen's Rockhard, Pratt & Lamber 38 or Sherwin Williams varnish. The first two are as durable as any poly. If you want a less yellow, use the one of the last two which are alkyd varnishes.
As to brushing, first wet the brush in mineral spirits and remove most of it. Then pour out your finish into a working container and seal up the can. Always work out of a separate container and never pour unused material back into the original can. For the first coat, thin the varnish about 25-30% with mineral spirits to promote absorption. Let it dry at least 24 hours and then sand it flat using 320 paper on a sanding block. Now apply two more coats thinned about 10% to promote flow out.
The brushing technique for varnish is to flow the material onto the surface using long strokes. Once you have an area covered, remove most of the finish from your brush and using just the tips, make long, full panel length strokes just lightly touching the surface. This "tipping off" will level the finish and cause any bubbles to come to the surface and pop..
Finally, practice on some scrap material or cardboard boxes until you get the hang of it.
First, I would start with a better finish. Poly is relatively soft, has an amber cast and does not dry as clear as other finishes. It's fine on floors or everyday kitchen tables. For any nice project, I would use a non-poly varnish like Waterlox Original, Behlen's Rockhard, Pratt & Lamber 38 or Sherwin Williams varnish. The first two are as durable as any poly. If you want a less yellow, use the one of the last two which are alkyd varnishes.
As to brushing, first wet the brush in mineral spirits and remove most of it. Then pour out your finish into a working container and seal up the can. Always work out of a separate container and never pour unused material back into the original can. For the first coat, thin the varnish about 25-30% with mineral spirits to promote absorption. Let it dry at least 24 hours and then sand it flat using 320 paper on a sanding block. Now apply two more coats thinned about 10% to promote flow out.
The brushing technique for varnish is to flow the material onto the surface using long strokes. Once you have an area covered, remove most of the finish from your brush and using just the tips, make long, full panel length strokes just lightly touching the surface. This "tipping off" will level the finish and cause any bubbles to come to the surface and pop..
Finally, practice on some scrap material or cardboard boxes until you get the hang of it.
There are two finish concoctions frequently referred to as "wiping varnish".
One is more rightly called an "oil/varnish mixture". This is a mixture of equal parts of varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. It's applied and wiped off after 15-30 minutes. Brand names of similar commercial products are Watco, Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Antique Oil and Velvit Oil to name a few. Some are called "Danish Oil".
The second is a thinned wiping varnish. The formula is a 50/50 mixture of varnish and mineral spirits. This finish is wiped on with a rag dampened with the finish and allowed to dry. It is not wiped off. Some of these are also called "Danish Oil" but most are correctly referred to as "Wiping Varnish".
- Status
Premier Sponsor
Our Sponsors
LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS
-
-
-
SOLD -- $75: Gast moa v113 Vacuum Pump Veneer, 60" bag and board- Started by peterdnight
- Replies: 1
-
GONE: Gladiator 5 cleats, 10 hangers, Paper Towel and Shelf
- Started by peterdnight
- Replies: 3
-
SOLD -- $100 Makita mac700 portable air + grex pin nailer + 2 others + 50' hose
- Started by peterdnight
- Replies: 1