Need New Drill [Big one]

[DSWalker]

I'm planning to replace the deck on my 18' flatbed trailer and I don't think my little 20v Dewalt drills have the power needed to consistently drill thru the steel. (At least not without having to constantly recharge batteries)

Any suggestions on how big/powerful of a drill I'll need to keep this project moving as quickly as possible. I can do the work in my carport in front of my shop, so I have electricity. I'm thinking for a one time need a corded drill will be the more economical way to go. But, open to your thoughts and suggestions. (I've done no research yet)

I don't use my trailer often [obvious from photo] but when I do, I need it to support a 6500lb tractor.

 

[mquan01]

Rent one for the day

 

[Wilsoncb]

I think the bigger problem might be dull drill bits unless you were planning to use self drilling screws. I used to work for Omaha Standard who made various flat bed type bodies for trucks. We had a dedicated heavy duty self feeding screw machine we called the pogo-stick. As the name implies, it looked like a pogo-stick so the operator could stand up straight to operate it. It used self-drilling screws.
Back to the original question, If your DeWalt portable drill is like my Milwaukee it’s powerful enough. It might be worth getting a couple high capacity batteries instead of getting a big heavy drill. I think it’s worth just giving it a shot with what you have now to see how it goes.
Either way you go get a good wax type lubricant. The key is to keep the drill bit (or self drilling screws) from getting too hot.

 

[JimD]

I agree your drill should handle it. I drilled a boat trailer that was probably thinner steel than the trailer for a 6500 lb load but I used a Ryobi 18V and it worked fine. Sharp bit is required, however. You could probably buy a "cheapie" 120V drill at Harbor Freight for less than more DeWalt batteries, however. I'd also get a hand full of drill bits in the size you need and/or a drill doctor.

 

[FredP]

I have one you can borrow if you're drilling and bolting and I have a corded screw gun if you're going with self drilling screws. I would drill and bolt

 

[jlwest]

Just use some oil on the sharp drill bit when drilling and it should work. Just rent a corded drill at Home Depot.

 

[bob vaughan]

Check Craigslist or FB marketplace for something near by. There may be a corded heavy duty Milwaukee or DeWalt for cheap.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

If you decide to buy a new drill, look at the Milwaukee 234, corded, 1/2" drill. It's my go-to drill for heavy duty jobs.

 

[Gotcha6]

I re decked my Hudson Bros. 14' trailer last summer with PT 2 x 8s and used the self drilling countersunk screws sold at Lowe's. The cross rails were 3" hot rolled channel iron and it had no issues using my electric impact wrench with a T 35 bit. I also used my 20v DeWalt impact driver at times.
I was amazed, as the original deck was at least 25 years old, and yet I was able to back out most of the old screws. But they appeared to be only self tapping, which would have required a tap size bit. I guess the technology has changed in that length of time.

 

[Jim M.]

When I have a need for something that is likely only needed for a one off project, I buy the tool from Harbor Freight, saves some cash and I don't care if it's toast when I'm done.

 

[junquecol]

I have a couple straight 1/2" Milwaulkee drills (corded) that would do the drilling with no problem. But due to torque, they would ring off any self tapping screws. Screw guns have a clutch in them.

 

[bob vaughan]

If you decide to buy a new drill, look at the Milwaukee 234, corded, 1/2" drill. It's my go-to drill for heavy duty jobs.

I have two, each in a different work area. Not often used, but when needed, they always come through.
For driving screws, the B&D/DeWalt Versa Clutch drivers can't be beat. Fast (2500 RPM) and powerful with a sensitive torque setting mechanism. A couple are 35+ years old and still going strong.

On the right is a purpose-built drywall gun

 

[RobS.]

I agree with a sharp bit and some oil. Also drill at a slow speed, the bits will cut better and not overheat.

 

[DSWalker]

Gonna find out tomorrow if the Dewalt 20v cordless can handle the job.

Had lots of rust on both ends and at the joint where the dovetail starts. I've used this Loctite product before and really liked it.

 

[Gotcha6]

You are wise to re-deck that trailer. Hudson Bros. has closed their business and no longer makes trailers. I have one of their original tilt bed single axle trailers that is 50+ years old and the only thing I've had to replace are lights and axles (mostly from abuse on my part). When I re-decked my 14' beavertail last year the frame was still in good shape with no rust. A word of caution; let your PT lumber dry out before installing to avoid problems with shrinkage. I didn't and had to rip the last plank, only to have gaps occur after they dried.
The original brothers started the business after they decided to sell off their mowing equipment and when they got to the trailer they built similar to mine they wanted to keep it, so they priced it high, and it sold right away. They initially built trailers with an "NCX" VIN until they became manufacturers. The closest to their trailers being built around here now are actually being built by their former Shop Foreman, Mike Moore, not far from their original business.

 

[DSWalker]

Hey Dennis, not sure what a NCX VIN is, Can you explain that?

I do have a title, but have yet to lay eyes on a VIN plate.


The Dewalt drill did okay. I have 2 batteries and by the time I burned one out the 2nd had recharged. I do think a heavier drill would have helped. I'm 90% complete.

I used clamps to squeeze the boards together anticipating shrinkage.

 

[gator]

Not having a trailer, maybe I'm cheap or ignorant of the problem or don't understand the issue, but; why new holes?, can't you use the current holes for the flooring?

 

[DSWalker]

Not having a trailer, maybe I'm cheap or ignorant of the problem or don't understand the issue, but; why new holes?, can't you use the current holes for the flooring?

No. After 10-15 years of exposure the screws rust and deteriorate. Most of them break off as you remove the boards. I think I found 1 that was actually 'loose' out of about 200. That also become a huge PIA because drilling into the I beam is hard enough, but if you hit an old hardened screw, it is a 'no go' and you will ruin or break the new screw.

This was the 3rd time the boards have been replaced. It was very hard finding a good spot to drill! I will be super sure to treat these boards every couple of years because I'm not sure I could find enough open space to replace them again!

 

[Gotcha6]

Hey Dennis, not sure what a NCX VIN is, Can you explain that?

I do have a title, but have yet to lay eyes on a VIN plate.


The Dewalt drill did okay. I have 2 batteries and by the time I burned one out the 2nd had recharged. I do think a heavier drill would have helped. I'm 90% complete.

I used clamps to squeeze the boards together anticipating shrinkage.

NCX numbers are issued by NCDMV for 'home made' trailers. The number is issued by them and must be stamped into the tongue and the axle of the trailer, a tracing sent to the DMV, and then a title is issued with those numbers. Hudson Bros. early trailers were titled that way. Anything that has their decals on it like I see in your pics should have a stamped plate at the front of the bed with the model and serial #s stamped into it and riveted to the trailer.
Don't worry about the deck expanding and buckling. I doubt that will happen as the lumber loses its growth and treating moisture.

 

[Gotcha6]

No. After 10-15 years of exposure the screws rust and deteriorate. Most of them break off as you remove the boards. I think I found 1 that was actually 'loose' out of about 200. That also become a huge PIA because drilling into the I beam is hard enough, but if you hit an old hardened screw, it is a 'no go' and you will ruin or break the new screw.

This was the 3rd time the boards have been replaced. It was very hard finding a good spot to drill! I will be super sure to treat these boards every couple of years because I'm not sure I could find enough open space to replace them again!

One thing I found on my trailer that made it easier was the deck was screwed down to only every other stretcher. I just used the unused channels and staggered the front and back row.