How to plane wood stock that has a groove cut through the width

jlyates777

Jay
User
Any suggestions on how to plane a board that has a dado groove cut in it? When I planed these on my thickness planar it got stuck at the end and really just dug in and left a horrible snipe. Any suggeations?? I have three more to do.

I am thinking about either hand plane or maybe cutting a strip that fits the groove.
 

Attachments

  • 20240915_103205.jpg
    20240915_103205.jpg
    988.7 KB · Views: 113

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Depending on how much you have to remove, a drum or wide belt sander might work best. Try running the wood through at an angle so the groove doesn't get hung up.

If you don't have such a sander or know someone who does, a cabinet shop may be willing to rent time on theirs.
 

jlyates777

Jay
User
Depending on how much you have to remove, a drum or wide belt sander might work best. Try running the wood through at an angle so the groove doesn't get hung up.

If you don't have such a sander or know someone who does, a cabinet shop may be willing to rent time on theirs.
I ran it through at an angle and it still hung up. I could do that but the product is not worth the money it would cost to take it to a cabinet shop for belt sander
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
Corporate Member
It looks like the board is getting kicked up as well. I think you are going to have to do like @Mike Davis suggested. Double face tape would work too, it won’t take much. If you’re piece isn’t very long then you may ALSO need to use a sled.
 

Jack A.

Jack
User
I would be concerned about any temporary glue being able to hold the filler blocks in place against the force of the plane blades, but it's worth giving that a try since it's the simplest. I'd try to get the filler as close to the depth of the existing dado as possible so it doesn't stick up and possibly get caught and pulled up by the plane blades.

A more complicated solution would be to create a sled to hold your workpiece. Specifically, create a U-shaped sled, with a bottom that your workpiece sits on (and possibly is double-stick taped to), and a sacrificial piece on either side that the plane rollers can grab. The side pieces will get planed down along with the work piece.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
This happened because the feed roller(s) dropped into the groove, lowering the cutter head. The rollers are always under pressure so that there is enough friction to keep the wood moving. A filler strip at least near each edge to keep the roller up is one way to prevent it. A sacrificial strip on each side (if there is room) will also work.

With most lunch box planers, the cutter head is on a carriage that also includes the rollers. It pivots in the middle, so when the roller drops, so does the cutter head (about half the distance of the roller). When width allows, a sacrificial piece on each side that is longer both front and back than the distance from the cutters to the roller will prevent snipe on the ends as well is for any dadoes. (basically, the sacrificial pieces have to exceed the length of the snipe occurring).

Be aware that these filler strips may have a tendency to kick up/back when first fed into the rollers, so have a firm grasp on them until the roller starts pulling them in. When the width does not allow, a piece in front and in back tight up against the work will prevent end snipe, but won't stop the drop into a dado.

The filler strip does have to be secured enough that the pressure on the end of it as it goes through the roller does not tilt it up into the cutter head.
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top