Trim Carpenter

[JLee]

In need of some assistance installing trim (new and old) in an old house.
This includes some crown, picture molding, baseboards, doors casings, etc.

Must be experienced with traditional techniques, able to work with rooms that may not be perfectly square, a problem solver, someone who thinks it through first. In other words, not looking for someone to come in and 'slap it up' like in new construction.
This will mostly be naturally finished woodwork, so it must be neat. Also may need help in applying shellac. thanks..

 

[DaveD]

I'm not applying for the job but have done a couple of old houses over the years.

If the house has the 'old' lath & plaster walls be sure whoever you get to do it understands (and has experience with) fastening 'stuff' to the walls.

The lath/plaster has a tendency to crack and break off sometimes when you nail through it. Also you probably have a 25% chance that the nail won't hit the lath and therefore won't grab on to anything.

Uneven plastered ceilings intersecting with uneven plastered walls can be a challenge too.

Stained crown and woodwork adds another level of needed craftsmanship.

One last thing, sagging floors can present a challenge for things like chair rail because should it be level or follow the floor (I'd say it should probably follow the floor).

Sometimes its easier to put up trim with long trim head screws in strategic places so you can 'pull the trim tight' A air nailer typically won't pull it tight. Nothing worse than putting up a long piece of crown with a air nailer just to find out the whole darn thing wobbles on the nails when you finally let go of the board. BTDT.

If you are going to be pulling any trim off, think about the hazard of lead paint if you have small kids around. Old paint chips everywhere and having to scrape other trim so the new trim has something flat to set against.

Now if you really want a challenge work on the old plumbing or knob and tube wiring, old switches and receptacles.

Oh yeah, if you have any old time pocket doors be sure you don't nail the baseboard or opening trim into the door when its in the pocket. By the same token, don't nail the chair rail with nails/screws that are too long so they gouge the pocket door when you open/close it. BTDT too. At least I never gouged a door though.

 

[CrealBilly]

I'm not applying for the job but have done a couple of old houses over the years.

If the house has the 'old' lath & plaster walls be sure whoever you get to do it understands (and has experience with) fastening 'stuff' to the walls.

The lath/plaster has a tendency to crack and break off sometimes when you nail through it. Also you probably have a 25% chance that the nail won't hit the lath and therefore won't grab on to anything.

Uneven plastered ceilings intersecting with uneven plastered walls can be a challenge too.

+1 and also goes for installing electrical boxes too. If you do get in a pinch and need to do a little plaster repair, these guys work great

http://www.modernwaylumber.com/plaster/

 

[JimmyC]

I agree with Dave about the difficulty of trimming out an old house because I had a 1918 Dutch colonial that I was matching old trim on when refinishing rooms. Between trying to make new trim match the old style, working with uneven walls, floors and ceilings, plaster and lath, windows and doors out of square, etc., you couldn't pay me enough to do it for someone else who was watching me. The good news is that my work was for myself and a labor of love. Working on that house, and trying to keep it original, and to period style, made me a much better woodworker.

Good luck.

 

[JLee]

Thanks, I'll add that the exterior walls are plaster over brick while interior walls are indeed over lath. The crown or high picture rail will be paintetd, everything else is to be finished. Do you think screws would work better on the brick? I removed evreything myself, and it was in there tight with nails.
Those guys must have known what they were doing, and didn't have power tools. I suppose I'll have to test with some scraps.

The house has good bones, isn't horribly out of square but certainly not like new construction (of which some of that isn't true either!). It's a great old house with lots of character.

I framed my first door yesterday, and of course it was one of the places where the floor sags. I chose to keep the top slightly out of level so the header won't be off with the ceiling (I split the difference). Thats the kind of detail I need. I wish I could find someone with more experience to help me out some, I'm sure it would pick up the pace. Two minds are sometimes better than one.

Wiring done, plumbing done, plasterers working now on the whole place (it's empty - work zone only). I have many challenges, I'm installing new converging pocket doors in a new wall system. That wasn't easy, the professional I hired didn't even get the track level. I'll be using short nails or screws for the baseboard!

Valid points Dave, I was worried about bounce with an air nailer.
Would an adhesive like liquid nails be a bad idea (just to hold it tight before fasteners)?

 

[Robb Parker]

Jamison- I'd be happy to do your work, 30+ years trimming/cabinetry. Many years of historic house renovations in Manhattan/Northern NJ area. Take a look at web site and some pictures posted here. www.heritagewoodwright.com We're in the upper Lake Norman area, Sherrills Ford.
Thanks,
Robb Parker
Heritage Woodwright LLC
828-228-8072