Maybe everybody knew this, but I recently discovered this tip when making shoulder cuts for tenons.
1. Set your fence cursor to 1-1/8" (assuming your blade is standard.)
For 3/32" thin kerf blades, set the fence to 1-3/32"
If your blade is non-standard, set the fence to 1" plus the blade kerf.
It doesn't matter whether the fence to blade setting is dead on, because this technique relies on the accuracy of the calibrated tape under the cursor, not the dimension from fence to blade.
2. Rip a piece of hardwood. Mark it as 1" gauge.
3. To cut specific shoulders, set the fence to 1" beyond the desired depth of cut. For example, for a 3/4" deep tenon, set the fence at 1-3/4".
4. Clamp the gauge against the fence as a stop block.
5. Cut away.
Note that this technique will work for for any desired cutoff, so if you need a series of 20" drawer sides, set your gauge as a stop block, set the fence to 21", and...
6. Cut away.
1. Set your fence cursor to 1-1/8" (assuming your blade is standard.)
For 3/32" thin kerf blades, set the fence to 1-3/32"
If your blade is non-standard, set the fence to 1" plus the blade kerf.
It doesn't matter whether the fence to blade setting is dead on, because this technique relies on the accuracy of the calibrated tape under the cursor, not the dimension from fence to blade.
2. Rip a piece of hardwood. Mark it as 1" gauge.
3. To cut specific shoulders, set the fence to 1" beyond the desired depth of cut. For example, for a 3/4" deep tenon, set the fence at 1-3/4".
4. Clamp the gauge against the fence as a stop block.
5. Cut away.
Note that this technique will work for for any desired cutoff, so if you need a series of 20" drawer sides, set your gauge as a stop block, set the fence to 21", and...
6. Cut away.