Having decided to build each Grandchild a Blanket/Hope chest. I spent months going to all the local Borg's , and seperating out the best SYP I could find, I built this protoype. The final chests well be built from Long Leaf Pine that I logged locally.
After scraping all the panel with a card scraper I decided there has to be a better way. So I sarted to surf the web for a "Better Mouse Trap" and decided on a Stanley 112 Scraper Plane. I bought this off Ebay so you know I paid dearly for it. But knowing it was going to be a user and be upgraded I thought is was the best buy.
I used Rust Free from Woodcraft on the sole and cheeks and left them natural, then bead blasted the inside and applied 6 coats of Dupli-Color DE1635 Engine Enamel to the inside. I then replaced the tote and Knob with one's from Droz's Olde Tyme Stanley Totes & Knobs www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com . After reading all the information on the web I replaced the blade with one from Lie-Nielsen. Here is the finished plane
Setting up this plane to work proved to be everything that I read to be true, but it is worth it.
I first honed the blade to 1200 grit paper then after setting the angle and depth it worked, but not great. So I used my burnishing tool to roll a burr on the edge. This worked better but still not great so I started to retune the settings. You can change the angle of the blade as well as the depth of blade. I found that by putting a thin piece of paper under the front of the sole and lowering the blade to a level surface worked best. but you must change the height of the blade each time you change the angle. Here are pictures of the shavings and the Figured Maple that I used for my set up.
This is one fine tool and I recommend that if you only have one hand plane this should be the one.
After scraping all the panel with a card scraper I decided there has to be a better way. So I sarted to surf the web for a "Better Mouse Trap" and decided on a Stanley 112 Scraper Plane. I bought this off Ebay so you know I paid dearly for it. But knowing it was going to be a user and be upgraded I thought is was the best buy.
I used Rust Free from Woodcraft on the sole and cheeks and left them natural, then bead blasted the inside and applied 6 coats of Dupli-Color DE1635 Engine Enamel to the inside. I then replaced the tote and Knob with one's from Droz's Olde Tyme Stanley Totes & Knobs www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com . After reading all the information on the web I replaced the blade with one from Lie-Nielsen. Here is the finished plane
Setting up this plane to work proved to be everything that I read to be true, but it is worth it.
I first honed the blade to 1200 grit paper then after setting the angle and depth it worked, but not great. So I used my burnishing tool to roll a burr on the edge. This worked better but still not great so I started to retune the settings. You can change the angle of the blade as well as the depth of blade. I found that by putting a thin piece of paper under the front of the sole and lowering the blade to a level surface worked best. but you must change the height of the blade each time you change the angle. Here are pictures of the shavings and the Figured Maple that I used for my set up.
This is one fine tool and I recommend that if you only have one hand plane this should be the one.