Porta Cable Router

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lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Need help with router for cutting minature stile and rails for oak display cabinet. I have a 690 series in PC that burnt the ends when I made my first cut. Yes, I went slow because I questioned whether or not the router was heavy enough for the cut. I use this same router to cut cherry stiles and rails without a problem. That application was 3/4" stock, same as this setup, I cut shoulder cuts of 1/4" flipped and cut the same on the other side and married it with a board that had one single 1/4" cut in the center. Is it the opinion here that my router isn't strong enough to make the minature stile and rail cuts without burning them? If so, does anyone know where I might be able to get a deal on one that will not break the bank. I am considering a reconditioned one. Thanks for the help. Lorraine
 

RandyJ

Randy
Corporate Member
Hi Lorraine,

I'm certainly no expert, but going too slow or using a high speed setting causes burning during cuts...I'm sure others will chime in on this.

Take care,
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Re: Porter Cable Router

Lorraine, if this is the cope and stick cut on the end of a mullion strip then what you're getting is unavoidable. You may have noticed that you burn some and not others also. What's happening is that end grain is tougher to cut clean depending upon the fiber angle and elasticity of the species. I've pushed them thru zip fast but traded burn for fuzz.
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Do I understand that burn is ok? Doesn't that dull the bit? I understand from PC rep that going a step up to say a 892 or 893 will get me a 2 1/4 hp and a variable speed. Reconditioned router by PC with year guarantee runs about $160.00.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
No, burn is NOT OK, but sometimes unavoidable. I was spinning that bit with my Milwaukee 3.5 HP router. There were over a 100 of those end cuts in this project and at least 75 had some burn.

 
M

McRabbet

Lorraine,

My experience with these bits is also with a 3-1/2 HP Milwaukee, but here is what I'd advise for the long (with the grain) cuts to avoid burning. Take two passes with each piece by moving the fence out past the bearing and thus taking a shallower cut. Move at a steady pace, even if you hear the router straining a little -- it should have adequate power to do a continuous pass. After you've done your first pass, reset the fence with the bearing just touching the piece being cut and finish the profile. Do the same for your mullions, but you'll need to rip the mullion to finish width before you put them into the carrier strip and take the first pass on the opposite side. OK?
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Joe, those three pieces are beautiful. I aspire to be able to do that someday. Maybe when this project is finished I can try something like that.
 

lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Rob, I had a woodworking friend come by and look at my setup today and run a few ends. He seems to think the router will do the job, however there was a problem with control of the sled on the end cuts. He put a thin strip, about 3/8" x 1/2" against the fence on both sides so the sled never had a chance to move in or out. He sent the pieces through and it didn't burn. It was a bit rough, my burnt piece was smooth. I talked with PC today, they say that a step up in speed from 1 3/4 hp to 2 1/4 hp will only get me a variable speed which maybe a help. They don't think the 1 3/4 hp is a problem. Maybe I just went through too slow because of concerns over my router. I can buy a reconditioned model, 2 1/4 hp with variable speed for about $160 but why do that if I don't need to. I will try a few more cuts tomorrow and make a decision of the upgraded model. At this point I am still not sure if the upgrade is any better than what I have except for the speed control. No doubt there is still more to learn.
 
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