Lennox bi-metal BS blades

[mshel]

For those of you who have and use this style of blade, what has been your experience as to longivity vs the standard carbon blade.

I recently purchased a couple of bi-metal blades from Woodcraft bands and after a extremely short time, the blade broke right at the weld. I sent the blade back to the mfg. and his comments were " that blade looks like it has had a lot of wear". Let me preface this by simply stating that I hadn't used that blade to cut very much wood and nothing that I consider to be extreme. Wood types ranged from maple to pine in hardness and I was cutting poplar when it broke. All told, I don't imagine I had a total of 1 hr cutting on that blade and was very dissapointed as to the short life to say the least.

Another member and I both bought carbon blades from the same supplier and I haven't had any breakage (don't think the other member has either)with them and have cut ten times the wood with them that I cut with the BM blade.

I could turn this into a rant of sorts but I will forgo that in lieu of your thoughts and experience on this subject.

If a blade breaks at the weld, what is "normally the reason"? Faulty welding, or misuse (take my word on this, misuse isn't even the reason in this case).

For the record, the supplier isn't replacing the blade with a new one, just rewelding the failed one. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

Mike

 

[junquecol]

Rewelding is SOP. I have used a Lennox 1/4", 6tpi, hook, 0.025 bimetal blade on my bandsaw for years. Bout the only thing I ever run. Got some Timber Wolfs for when bimetal blade finally quits. There is a place in Boone that makes and sell bandsaw blades. Just can't remember their name right now.

 

[cpowell]

Judging from your tone you you don't like it when someone questions your integrity, huh? :eusa_thin

In full disclosure, I am the other member. Mike and I tried to buy Lenox bimetals maybe 6 months ago from the same source. I phone ORDERED "4 each" 1/2 - 3H Lenox bimetal and they SENT "4 each", 1/2 inch x 3H Si-steel. I was disappointed but just kept them. BTW I actually like these Lenox steel bands better than the Timberwolf bands from Suffolk. The price is good and the welds are great, too...they don't break!! :lol: :lol:

Mike, you need to just break down and buy a blade welder if you're gonna keep abusing these blades with that poplar and maple! Mike :slap: Chuck

(BTW, I'm voting bad weld.)

Chuck

 

[NCPete]

that would be the Woodcraft blades place. saw when I drove through there several months ago.

 

[Wildwood]

Only use Lenox, carbon steel flex back band saw blades. My source for blades now recommends bi-metal blades for cutting hard woods. I chalk that up to marketing hype. Cut very little softwood on my band saw.

While would not rule out bad welds, might also consider blade fatigue, or over tensioning the blade causing premature breakage.

According to “Bands Saw Handbook,” by Mark Duginske, pages 65 thru 68, explains in detail why should not use bi-metal blade for woodworking. He also addresses marketing hype.

Has to due with speed. Bi-metal blades designed for cutting metal and operate at 400 feet per minute, for maximum life. Wood cutting band saws run 7 times that speed, or approximately 2,800+ feet per minute. Bi-metal blade fatigues if run too fast. Blade tension is also a concern, while bi-metal can take more tension. Folks tend to over tension their blades. Excessive tension can wear out components, damage machine parts, and bend frames.

 

[froglips]

Speaking to your question on "possible misuse".....

Also parroting Mark Duginske, he suggests rounding over the back of bandsaw blades with a dry stone.

Says that helps keep the blade from breaking. Softens sharp edges that can lead to cracks.

No clue on weld breaks.

Did you mention to that you only used the bandsaw blade to tow your 5th wheel trailer up to the top of Mt. Fuji........

Jim

 

[mshel]

Not having the super duper tension checking device, I simply tension the blade so that it has approximately 1/4" deflection when pressed with two fingers. I probably need to do some level of research on this though just so I can respond intelligently. Heck, I am just a furniture maker, not a scientist.

For the money we spend on these bandsaws, one would think we deserve an accurate tension gauge built in to the system. My MM16 is an awesome machine but the tension gauge is a POS.

This is my first experience with bi-metal and actually bought it because of all the recommendations given by other WWkers. Whether all this is hype or not, who is to say. I guess I take a person on their word and sometimes we just have to see for ourselves. If I can get five times the life out of a blade, sure I am interested and so would most anyone who is $ conscience.

BTW, I got the blade back today and gave it a test run resawing some beech and it did quite well. Hope this weld lasts much much much much longer than the last one.

Mike

 

[jeff...]

Lennox makes the best band saw blades in my mind. I can get up to 6 re-sharp's before it develops a crack in a gullet and breaks. Way more band for the buck than with some of the other brands. With other brands I usually get 3 re-sharpings before they either don't have enough teeth left to cut or break during use. I've not had a lennox break in the weld, but have had other brands break in the weld.

I run a tight blade, with the guides fully open I pluck it until it plays a D, it's almost like tuning a guitar, I love to hear the blade sing through the wood... :-D

 

[NCPete]

Okay, Jeff, but in what key is that D????

 

[jeff...]

Okay, Jeff, but in what key is that D????

that not only deserves one but two of these :slap: :slap: :lol:

 

[Wildwood]

Mike, you are the first WWKER, ever heard of having trouble with a bi-metal band saw blade. Bad welds can and do happen with any type of band saw blade. Information provided on blade fatigue, and over tensioning, saw damage, and marketing hype is just that, “information.”

While Mark Duginske, does like bi-metal blade for consumer grade band saws with wheels less than 18 inches. Louis Iturra recommends Lenox Promaster II bi-metal or Promaster III carbide tipped blades for re-sawing. Not sure but think Iturra blades “Bladerunner Re-Saw” blades are just Wood Slicer blades. Could and probably wrong about that.

Mike am not trying to put myself out there as an expert. Purchased my copy of the “Band Saw Book,” before buying a band saw. Still refer back to it often. Information provided has served me well.

Grizzly G0555, definitely qualifies as a consumer saw, vice industrial. Use the SWAG method of tensioning a band saw blade. Yes would love to have a Louis Iturra blade tensioning gauge which cost $135. Back in 2005. Not sure what it cost now.

Never tried to sharpen a band saw blade, so replace them when dull. I do not remove bark before cutting a log, which dulls a blade faster than normal. Just think if cutting wet/dry logs over time will dull a blade too. Normally go through one or two blades a year. Cost me less than a dollar more to buy two flex back blades to one bi-metal blade for my saw.

While not first person to say this, and from my own personal experience you measure blade life in hours, not years when re-sawing wood. Don’t really care what type or who made the blade.

Think you can still order a free Iturra catalog by calling: 1-888-722-7078.