How would you cover side panel for a vanity?

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
All:
In the midst of a bathroom remodel I am making a new vanity that will be similar to the pictured dresser (West Elm website picture) Legs instead of a traditional cabinet base and both sides of the piece will be exposed/show (i.e. no adjacent walls). I was considering a curved front style, but have decided to keep it simpler (and flat front).

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I have purchased some offcuts of Themally Modified Ash from Raleigh Reclaimed - enough for drawer faces, edging the plywood, and for side panels. Themally Modified wood is heat treated as the name suggests using a different process than kiln drying; the material is primarily used outdoors, as the thermal modification process imparts significant rot resistance. The color is a consistent warm brown color in the species i have seen (ash and poplar), and that color quite frankly is what drew me to this material. It is not an inexpensive and seems to be really only available from internet sources (Raleigh Reclaimed sold me their offcut material saved from other projects); none of the local wood suppliers carried it as far as I could tell from websites and some calls. If anyone finds a local source please share. Yes I know I can order online but doubt I'd meet minimum order size and shipping costs would add up fast.

I am planning to make a frameless plywood carcase for the cabinet, and the visible fronts are to have applied ash edging. Drawers will be inset with undermount slides. All that seems pretty straight forward to me at least (haha I haven't done it yet - but I have seen YouTube!).

The question is how would you make or cover the sides of this vanity?
- I could make the sides as solid ash like a traditional case piece like a dresser (rather than plywood sides with ash covering), but I don't have enough material to do that and the prospect of wood movement seems likely and problematic, particularly in a bathroom.
- Rather, I am expect to make a thin 3/8 - 1/2" flat panels for frame and panel sides. I am envisioning this as an 'applied side panel', and not as the structure of the vanity. If done this way I would expect to attach the frame to the sides using screws from the inside.

The material is a generous 5/4 thick, so I likely have enough to resaw and plane to thickness; resawing will be a test of my new (used) bandsaw and my skills.

What other approaches would you consider?
If you used the Frame & Panel approach, how would you attach the panel?

EDIT - I do know that veneering would be the obvious answer to my question; I am not certain I'd want to try something that new to me under the time constraints I have here (4 weeks? while not retired). Yes that constaint is not terrible if you are set up and already do veneer work, but I have no veneer tools or vac bag etc, and no experience veneering.
 
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Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
The question is how would you make or cover the sides of this vanity?
- I could make the sides as solid ash like a traditional case piece like a dresser (rather than plywood sides with ash covering), but I don't have enough material to do that and the prospect of wood movement seems likely and problematic, particularly in a bathroom.
- Rather, I am expect to make a thin 3/8 - 1/2" flat panels for frame and panel sides. I am envisioning this as an 'applied side panel', and not as the structure of the vanity. If done this way I would expect to attach the frame to the sides using screws from the inside.

The material is a generous 5/4 thick, so I likely have enough to resaw and plane to thickness; resawing will be a test of my new (used) bandsaw and my skills.

What other approaches would you consider?
If you used the Frame & Panel approach, how would you attach the panel?

EDIT - I do know that veneering would be the obvious answer to my question; I am not certain I'd want to try something that new to me under the time constraints I have here (4 weeks? while not retired). Yes that constaint is not terrible if you are set up and already do veneer work, but I have no veneer tools or vac bag etc, and no experience veneering.
The way the cabinet industry handles this:

Particle board cabinets, the sides are finished to match the cabinet as part of the particle board construction.

Inexpensive 1/2" ply cabinets, the ply is finished with a clear wood finish inside, and a finish to match the cabinet on outside of cabinet.

Expensive 1/2" or frameless 3/4" ply cabinets the sides are natural wood unfinished. A finished end has to be specified, or alternatively we skin the side. Skin means we purchase 3/16" 4x8 ply with a finish same as cabinet external, cut the 23 1/4" X 30" side from the ply and either glue or pin it to the end side of the cabinet.
 
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Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Willem - thank you. Yes I am at least somewhat familiar with how commercial work is constructed and if I was needing to stain, then yes I would take the approach of a finished end panel as you describe.

But here I get to do a custom piece - I get to do what I want without efficiency or low cost as a prime motivation. Quality, durability, and look are.
Not previously stated is my hope use the 'natural color' of the (thermally modified) ash; While I do have the basic competency to spray stains and clearcoat finishes (hobbiest not pro level), I had hoped to just clearcoat the ash and not to have to stain. If I was needing to stain, then yes I do a finished end panel of plywood.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Willem - thank you. Yes I am at least somewhat familiar with how commercial work is constructed and if I was needing to stain, then yes I would take the approach of a finished end panel as you describe.

But here I get to do a custom piece - I get to do what I want without efficiency or low cost as a prime motivation. Quality, durability, and look are.
Not previously stated is my hope use the 'natural color' of the (thermally modified) ash; While I do have the basic competency to spray stains and clearcoat finishes (hobbiest not pro level), I had hoped to just clearcoat the ash and not to have to stain. If I was needing to stain, then yes I do a finished end panel of plywood.
If you are using 3/4" ply, sounds as if the easiest would be to cut bandsaw veneer from matching lumber, sand it through a drum sander, then veneer the sides.

Often we apply decorative ends, which is just a 5 piece rail and stile construction panel fixed to the end. That will change your look though. You refer to that as frame and panel, it is really just a 5 piece cabinet door.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
If you are using 3/4" ply, sounds as if the easiest would be to cut bandsaw veneer from matching lumber, sand it through a drum sander, then veneer the sides.

Often we apply decorative ends, which is just a 5 piece rail and stile construction panel fixed to the end. That will change your look though. You refer to that as frame and panel, it is really just a 5 piece cabinet door.
Right - a Frame & Panel side as I am considering it is basically a (large) cabinet door (30" high, 24" wide). I was considering making that with quite narrow rails and stiles to keep the look as flat as possible.

And right, that frame and panel would change the look; I'd prefer (I think) the look of a veneered panel, and so maybe I have to get over my hesitancy and learn to resaw and apply veneer. I don't have a drum sander.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Right - a Frame & Panel side as I am considering it is basically a (large) cabinet door (30" high, 24" wide). I was considering making that with quite narrow rails and stiles to keep the look as flat as possible.

And right, that frame and panel would change the look; I'd prefer (I think) the look of a veneered panel, and so maybe I have to get over my hesitancy and learn to resaw and apply veneer. I don't have a drum sander.
Another option is to try and buy matching veneer. I always make my own veneer, but try this guy. I always buy my Transtint die from him, as he has the lowest price.

 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Another option is to try and buy matching veneer. I always make my own veneer, but try this guy. I always buy my Transtint die from him, as he has the lowest price.

Excellent - thanks Willem.
 

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