If its 1/4" thick or less, you can cut it with a carbide tipped blade. One with negative rake or minimum positive is better than something like the craftsmen Dyanite blades (teeth come to a forward facing point) I have had a dyanite style throw carbide teeth at me. As already stated, the more teeth the better (ie 40 or more for a 10" blade, with 60 a good number.) The preferred would be the one Mike linked to.
It is much better to use a table saw than a circular saw or miter saw. The latter two have the teeth coming up and will shower you with hot metal chips. Regardless, wear good eye protection with goggle type protection to cover sides and tops.
On the table saw, this is a case where raising the blade full up is better, so you get a downward chopping action. If you have the blade set low like cutting ply, etc, (1/2 tooth above the top is recommended by some), you will build up enough friction through the longer cut to melt the aluminum, and it will gall on the blade, greatly upping the heat and ruining your blade (quicker). This is another reason not to use a miter saw. You will want to clean out the saw under the insert after you are done, and you do not want to use a ZCI (metal will build up on the edge). Use the stock insert if you have one.
I have used standard kerf blades for this but never have tried thin kerf, so don't know how well that will work.
A bandsaw with the right teeth and speed will work, but works better if you can keep the blade lubed. (messy). IF the blade starts galling, stop until it cools.
You will also want ear protection, and wear a long sleeved shirt (cuffs buttoned).
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