For the door and spring to be properly balanced, the door should set at about waist height (opener disconnected) without closing or opening on its on. Above that it should retract up. Below that should require some pressure to fully close from a static set. (It may close from full open by inertia).
That said, some companies set it to be "balanced" at full close (not good 'cause it could close on a young'in).
If the spring is visible, the initial installer should have spray painted a straight line across it when it was at zero tension. This gives a visible indication of how many twists of torsion is put on it when it is fully closed. (looks like a spiral). For instance, I have a 16' door with two springs. both are tensioned so that there are 8 turns on each when the door is fully closed (opposite directions on a full dual door). If your doors are set up that way, you may be able to tell if both springs are tensioned the same.
If it is lifting freely, it is probably needing the spring lubed in the tube. (I have never had one with the spring enclosed) or the chain is too long, has grit in the track or chain links, or just needs the track lubed. The Lift master also has a power adjuster, so yours may be set too forceful on that door (see owners' manual)
Unless you have two of the appropriate sized rods, and have a good idea of what you are doing (it is not as simple as it may at first seem, and that spring has a LOT of torsion) do not try to retension the spring. Best to call a garage door installer to adjust it. Most do not charge too much for that service.
JMTCW
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