It has been awhile since I gave an update on this evolution. As shown in my previous post and the first pic below, I modified one of my manual gates with the addition of a pneumatic actuating cylinder. The design worked fine so I modified the remaining gates.
Since that time I changed my installation plans, however. I decided I did not want to initiate gate opening using machine power directly. Instead I will use current sensing switches wired to each electrical outlet providing power to the machines. Also, instead of mounting the blast gates on each machine, I decided to install them and all the wiring and plumbing behind the knee wall or, for the mid-floor tablesaw and jointer, in the duct that runs along the garage ceiling below the shop. The only thing visible will be the flex connecting the machine to the DC port. To make room for and install the auto gates, I needed to raise the ports and rework the ducting behind the knee wall. I also ran 4" duct to the ceiling for a planned tablesaw over-blade dust pickup. In keeping with the clean design of my shop I opened up a slot in the ceiling drywall to run the duct.
I have also been trying to find and collect inexpensive parts for the system. I had a setback finding inexpensive current sensing switches. Ones that I thought would work that I found on Ebay at a decent price were not as advertised. Despite help from my brother who is an EE we were unable to make these units work or construct new ones economically. I will be using current sensing switches available from an electronics supplier so the cost of my gates has gone up a little. The actuator, current switch, solenoid valve, misc. buttons, pilot lights, etc. is running about $40 per gate. I guess, that still is not too bad when compared to the cost of EcoGate brand autogates which can run $200 - $300 for just a 6" gate.
Here are some pics:
An autogate mounted on a machine. In the final installation the gate and the plumbing will be behind a wall and not visible.
Four port knee wall before relocating the three low DC ports.
Low 6" and one low 4" port have been moved up. One port was eliminated. The old port holes in the drywall have been repaired. The new electrical box blank cover plates will eventually have an autogate pilot light, a manual on/off switch, and an electrical outlet selector rotary switch. All the autogates are just behind the port openings- gate slide is dark and visible.
Light fixture temporarily removed and ceiling opened up to run over-blade DC duct.
4" pipe installed.
Closing up the slot.
Ceiling repaired except for paint and light reinstalled.
DC port for over-blade dust pickup and autogate control wire - when the lower part of the over-blade pickup is folded out of the way, the servicing autogate will be disabled via a microswitch at the hinge point.
Finishing up the last knee wall- ports raised, one port repositioned, and autogates mounted. Old holes awaiting repair.
Since that time I changed my installation plans, however. I decided I did not want to initiate gate opening using machine power directly. Instead I will use current sensing switches wired to each electrical outlet providing power to the machines. Also, instead of mounting the blast gates on each machine, I decided to install them and all the wiring and plumbing behind the knee wall or, for the mid-floor tablesaw and jointer, in the duct that runs along the garage ceiling below the shop. The only thing visible will be the flex connecting the machine to the DC port. To make room for and install the auto gates, I needed to raise the ports and rework the ducting behind the knee wall. I also ran 4" duct to the ceiling for a planned tablesaw over-blade dust pickup. In keeping with the clean design of my shop I opened up a slot in the ceiling drywall to run the duct.
I have also been trying to find and collect inexpensive parts for the system. I had a setback finding inexpensive current sensing switches. Ones that I thought would work that I found on Ebay at a decent price were not as advertised. Despite help from my brother who is an EE we were unable to make these units work or construct new ones economically. I will be using current sensing switches available from an electronics supplier so the cost of my gates has gone up a little. The actuator, current switch, solenoid valve, misc. buttons, pilot lights, etc. is running about $40 per gate. I guess, that still is not too bad when compared to the cost of EcoGate brand autogates which can run $200 - $300 for just a 6" gate.
Here are some pics:
An autogate mounted on a machine. In the final installation the gate and the plumbing will be behind a wall and not visible.
Four port knee wall before relocating the three low DC ports.
Low 6" and one low 4" port have been moved up. One port was eliminated. The old port holes in the drywall have been repaired. The new electrical box blank cover plates will eventually have an autogate pilot light, a manual on/off switch, and an electrical outlet selector rotary switch. All the autogates are just behind the port openings- gate slide is dark and visible.
Light fixture temporarily removed and ceiling opened up to run over-blade DC duct.
4" pipe installed.
Closing up the slot.
Ceiling repaired except for paint and light reinstalled.
DC port for over-blade dust pickup and autogate control wire - when the lower part of the over-blade pickup is folded out of the way, the servicing autogate will be disabled via a microswitch at the hinge point.
Finishing up the last knee wall- ports raised, one port repositioned, and autogates mounted. Old holes awaiting repair.