(OOOPS... My apologies... this should have probably been posted in the Wood Forum)
Sorry I've been rather absent of late... but building this recording studio has proven to be quite a bit more than I had thought it would be. (When people commit to helping, and then don't, you slow down when doing two man jobs by yourself.) Between that, the day job, and two other part time jobs and the economy... it's been a tad insane around here.
The sawdust generation will be coming to the interior finish stage soon... I've got two layers of 5/8" FR gypsum to go up first. But as soon as that's done, I'll be ready to start the finishing process on the oak I scored from the Raleigh Lumber Run.
At any rate, I'm kinda' green when it comes to finishing this much lumber and from this stage. (rough cut) I've got a bazillion questions, and I hope it ain't too much to ask in one post...
I know I start the finishing process of FEE; Faces, Edge, End. My planer should be up to the task, and so should my jointer... I just hope and pray that I'M up to the task! :wink_smil
For the final planer run, I'll try to run it on the slow feed and medium head speed to get the smoothest pass. But is there a good rule of thumb when working a whole pile of lumber? e.g., It make sense to start out by finding the thickest board and work down to the thinnest board. But, should I run all of them through one face at a time, then flip the stack over to the other side and run them through? :dontknow:
(Probably a stoopid question, but I'll ask it anyway.) Since the floorspace I have is kinda' limited to work the lumber, is it going to undo all of the drying process if I take the boards outside to mill em'? I would take them outside a few at a time and take them right back inside to re-stack em.
The construction of the walls/ceilings is essential to understand for this next question. The walls and ceiling are wood framed with 3/4" OSB attached to the framing with 2" screws to minimize/avoid vibration back-out. Over the OSB is two layers of 5/8" FR Gypsum. Each of the layers are set 90 degrees from the previous layer. The first layer of gypsum will be with 1-5/8" drywall screws. The second layer will be 2" screws.
The oak I'm milling, goes over the 2nd layer of gypsum, by attaching it to 1x2 furring strips. (Between the furring strips is 1" rigid insulation.) So, that means that the screws to attach the furring strips need to be at least 3-1/4" long. My question here is two-part... What should I use for furring strips? Pine or Spruce seem like they would be fine for the walls, but therein lies the rub... the ceiling is finished the same way, and I worry about all of that vertical lumber weight on the furring strips. (To minimize splitting of the furring strips when attaching it to the gypsum/OSB, I was planning on pre-drilling mounting holes.) The 2nd part is how would you recommend attaching the oak to the furring strip?? Should I just screw the oak to the furring strip or should I screw through the furring strip all the way to the OSB? OR... should I use a finish nail gun to attach the oak to the wall furring strips and only use screws for the ceiling?
Assuming I'll get the stack done.... When it comes to finishing (thus the above preface of too many questions for one post) my acoustical engineer has commented that the finish of a polyurethane or lacquer on at least 3 sides is essential, but 4 sides would be fine as well. There is a very precise spacing between the oak boards, so that air (sound) will be able to go between them. If I finish 4 sides, am I introducing more chance of warping/movement or less?
Thanks for any advice... including an application for committal to Dix Hill :rotflm:
Here's a link to the studio build blog if you wanna see some insanity at work...
Sorry I've been rather absent of late... but building this recording studio has proven to be quite a bit more than I had thought it would be. (When people commit to helping, and then don't, you slow down when doing two man jobs by yourself.) Between that, the day job, and two other part time jobs and the economy... it's been a tad insane around here.
The sawdust generation will be coming to the interior finish stage soon... I've got two layers of 5/8" FR gypsum to go up first. But as soon as that's done, I'll be ready to start the finishing process on the oak I scored from the Raleigh Lumber Run.
At any rate, I'm kinda' green when it comes to finishing this much lumber and from this stage. (rough cut) I've got a bazillion questions, and I hope it ain't too much to ask in one post...
I know I start the finishing process of FEE; Faces, Edge, End. My planer should be up to the task, and so should my jointer... I just hope and pray that I'M up to the task! :wink_smil
For the final planer run, I'll try to run it on the slow feed and medium head speed to get the smoothest pass. But is there a good rule of thumb when working a whole pile of lumber? e.g., It make sense to start out by finding the thickest board and work down to the thinnest board. But, should I run all of them through one face at a time, then flip the stack over to the other side and run them through? :dontknow:
(Probably a stoopid question, but I'll ask it anyway.) Since the floorspace I have is kinda' limited to work the lumber, is it going to undo all of the drying process if I take the boards outside to mill em'? I would take them outside a few at a time and take them right back inside to re-stack em.
The construction of the walls/ceilings is essential to understand for this next question. The walls and ceiling are wood framed with 3/4" OSB attached to the framing with 2" screws to minimize/avoid vibration back-out. Over the OSB is two layers of 5/8" FR Gypsum. Each of the layers are set 90 degrees from the previous layer. The first layer of gypsum will be with 1-5/8" drywall screws. The second layer will be 2" screws.
The oak I'm milling, goes over the 2nd layer of gypsum, by attaching it to 1x2 furring strips. (Between the furring strips is 1" rigid insulation.) So, that means that the screws to attach the furring strips need to be at least 3-1/4" long. My question here is two-part... What should I use for furring strips? Pine or Spruce seem like they would be fine for the walls, but therein lies the rub... the ceiling is finished the same way, and I worry about all of that vertical lumber weight on the furring strips. (To minimize splitting of the furring strips when attaching it to the gypsum/OSB, I was planning on pre-drilling mounting holes.) The 2nd part is how would you recommend attaching the oak to the furring strip?? Should I just screw the oak to the furring strip or should I screw through the furring strip all the way to the OSB? OR... should I use a finish nail gun to attach the oak to the wall furring strips and only use screws for the ceiling?
Assuming I'll get the stack done.... When it comes to finishing (thus the above preface of too many questions for one post) my acoustical engineer has commented that the finish of a polyurethane or lacquer on at least 3 sides is essential, but 4 sides would be fine as well. There is a very precise spacing between the oak boards, so that air (sound) will be able to go between them. If I finish 4 sides, am I introducing more chance of warping/movement or less?
Thanks for any advice... including an application for committal to Dix Hill :rotflm:
Here's a link to the studio build blog if you wanna see some insanity at work...
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