I'm wanting to build a workbench and have purchased the plans for the Veritas modern workbench from Lee Valley. They suggest using hard maple for the bench. I've had another suggestion to use Hickory or even red oak. What would you guys recommend I use? Also, I think I'll go to Wall Lumber and get the wood....Any recommendations on what to look out for when selecting the boards to use? Thanks for your help. Oh, and I've heard people use the phrase "slippery slope" when referring to the cost of getting into woodworking....Heck, it's more like going straight downhill on an ice covered road :eusa_thin ....Almost impossible to stop when you beyond a certain point...
Workbench question....
- Thread starter Colonel428
- Start date
- Status
steve, you may also want to check out your local Habitat's ReUse store. sometimes they have great deals on butcherblock countertops! seems Maple would be the preferred choice. I grew up where Maple syrup is made from the sap, not from various non-maple concentrates and maple flavoring. I have to make a trip home this summer for my 20th reunion, and fix some things for my mother, If LOML agrees to it, I may buy a trailer before the trip to bring some lumber from the land I grew up on. Beautiful BIG old Maple trees that we could put 6 taps on, and if lucky, some Hemlock, too.
Oh, and I've heard people use the phrase "slippery slope" when referring to the cost of getting into woodworking....Heck, it's more like going straight downhill on an ice covered road :eusa_thin ....Almost impossible to stop when you beyond a certain point...[/quote]
:rolf: :rolf: ,,i feel ya on that one,,i know a couple people that have used oak before,,i know some that have used hickory,,hard maple is the "traditional" wood to use,,but whatever wood you choose make sure it is straight grained, no knots, and no cups or twists in it,,cut your wood and let it set in your shop for a couple days to see what stress it has in it before final milling, im unfamiliar with that plan but make sure you use a quality glue,,also people like to use Splines, or threaded rod to pull the table top togeather and straight. I have a drum sander that you can use to flatten it, and woodguy has the same one, im sure he would let you use his if asked,,which ever is closer,,Ohh and if the plans dont have approns on it, I would incorporate it in the bench,,hope i have helped,,be blessed bro.
:rolf: :rolf: ,,i feel ya on that one,,i know a couple people that have used oak before,,i know some that have used hickory,,hard maple is the "traditional" wood to use,,but whatever wood you choose make sure it is straight grained, no knots, and no cups or twists in it,,cut your wood and let it set in your shop for a couple days to see what stress it has in it before final milling, im unfamiliar with that plan but make sure you use a quality glue,,also people like to use Splines, or threaded rod to pull the table top togeather and straight. I have a drum sander that you can use to flatten it, and woodguy has the same one, im sure he would let you use his if asked,,which ever is closer,,Ohh and if the plans dont have approns on it, I would incorporate it in the bench,,hope i have helped,,be blessed bro.
NCpete,,if it intersest you, im getting the welder hooked up and my brother is sending me plans for a trailer,,,im going to build mine,,we could easily combine our efforts,,just a thought
lol,,I have a great Hyper-Lite snowboard if you waana use it,,it helps to have it in the corner and point at it when the wife is yelling at you, saying trivial stuff like money for food,, it throws her off,,lol
michaelgarner said:
that could be cool! I think I have seen trailer suspension kits for sale somewhere. I knew a soldier who built his own trailer, without a suspension. When he mounted is sport bike on it for a 1500 mile trip, the trailer broke, almost before he got it down the hill at the Presidio of Monterey! (500 ft drop in elevation, in 3/4 mile, crossing 5-6 intersections.) Let's not build that kind of trailer.
whatever you go with ,,take pics,,lots-o-picks
Sorry for distracting these guys... didn't take much, did it? :roll:
:lol:
Anyway, back on topic: hard maple is what I'm using, but any hardwood would do. In fact some people prefer soft woods like pine, so you won't dent your fine furniture projects on the edge of your workbench. I think a hard wood would be more durable, and a light-colored species like hard maple would provide a nice bright surface to work on. If you can be choosy, choose pieces with as much nice clear sapwood (white) as possible, IMHO.
About that Veritas plan - I just found it again (link), and I had forgotten about those plans! Looks like a nice bench. One question, though - if you don't mind my asking, how do they attach the legs to the top? Is there a horizontal trestle member that stretches between the two legs up there to support the top?
:lol:
Anyway, back on topic: hard maple is what I'm using, but any hardwood would do. In fact some people prefer soft woods like pine, so you won't dent your fine furniture projects on the edge of your workbench. I think a hard wood would be more durable, and a light-colored species like hard maple would provide a nice bright surface to work on. If you can be choosy, choose pieces with as much nice clear sapwood (white) as possible, IMHO.
About that Veritas plan - I just found it again (link), and I had forgotten about those plans! Looks like a nice bench. One question, though - if you don't mind my asking, how do they attach the legs to the top? Is there a horizontal trestle member that stretches between the two legs up there to support the top?
thanks for the link monty. I never thought of the lighter wood, I should expect such info coming from a member of the trinity,,lol. Im glad I went with maple looking back.
Steve I am in a similiar situation with my workbench. I was given a nice maple table that has a laminated maple top I am going to use. There is a great article in Wood magazine issue 166 that looks real close to the Veritas modern workbench. They recommend using ash for the base and buying a prefab laminated maple top. They did the cost factors on both and the laminate top was quite a bit less money than buying the maple stock and making it yourself. The only drawback to buying a prefab top is you take out the experience of building the complete top yourself. They recommend ash for the base because of its cost and strength. I can highly recommend Wall Lumber if you have never visited them. They have always been very helpful and have great prices and selection. I bought 8/4 soft maple for my trestle base and hope I didn't mess up by not buying hard maple. Other members can comment on their experiences. Hope this helps.
Marty
Marty
michaelgarner/NCPete: I helped a friend of mine in FL start his own trailer mnfgr business (We started in his garage and the first project was a trailer for a 30' party barge). It became a thriving business, but being active duty at the time constantly TDY, I was only able to contibute part-time. Just a couple of thoughts based on our experience:
1. Mount your springs/axle assy on an L-channel slider so that it can be moved fore/aft if there is a significant center of gravity change (i.e hauling a tree trunk). This will also help align the axle ends the same distance from the hitch center so that it tracks true.
2. If its going to have over a 1 ton capacity, plan on putting brakes on it. If its not going into water (boat trailer), electric brakes will be the most economical. If it is a tandom trailer, the brakes go on the REAR axle. (when stopping a trailer, the tongue has a tendency to push up on the hitch, transferring the pressure to the rear axle. Brakes on the rear axle provide the most traction and cause the trailer to level out, helping steering control)
3. If you don't know a source, you can find pre-made axles (up to 5'000lb cap) springs, shackles, etc at Tractor Farm Supply stores. I have not used them but see they are available here. We made our own because we found the spindles up to 15 degrees out of true on manufacured ones available in FL, which can really eat tires, especially on the interstate. I don't recommend this for a one-time build, but it is something to check as well as you can when purchasing.
4. With that in mind, you may want to consider carrying a spare set of wheels, tires, complete with hubs and bearings if it will see a lot of high speed/heavy load use.
Good Luck. It'll be a fun, hot, sweaty project!!:lol:
1. Mount your springs/axle assy on an L-channel slider so that it can be moved fore/aft if there is a significant center of gravity change (i.e hauling a tree trunk). This will also help align the axle ends the same distance from the hitch center so that it tracks true.
2. If its going to have over a 1 ton capacity, plan on putting brakes on it. If its not going into water (boat trailer), electric brakes will be the most economical. If it is a tandom trailer, the brakes go on the REAR axle. (when stopping a trailer, the tongue has a tendency to push up on the hitch, transferring the pressure to the rear axle. Brakes on the rear axle provide the most traction and cause the trailer to level out, helping steering control)
3. If you don't know a source, you can find pre-made axles (up to 5'000lb cap) springs, shackles, etc at Tractor Farm Supply stores. I have not used them but see they are available here. We made our own because we found the spindles up to 15 degrees out of true on manufacured ones available in FL, which can really eat tires, especially on the interstate. I don't recommend this for a one-time build, but it is something to check as well as you can when purchasing.
4. With that in mind, you may want to consider carrying a spare set of wheels, tires, complete with hubs and bearings if it will see a lot of high speed/heavy load use.
Good Luck. It'll be a fun, hot, sweaty project!!:lol:
Gofor, thanks for the info, I will deff us it. Now back to work,,what did you decide to go with? Any further on materials?
Good looking or plain old functional? I have an old old old work bench that is just 2x4's and a sheet of plywood and that thing is indestructable and I never worried about staining on it, nailing jigs to it, building clamps into it, and so on. But if you want something that is going to look nice get some nice clear maple and laquer that sucker up. If you want oak and oak with history you can look into old pallet buyers and sellers and you might find good 5/4 or 6/4 3-4' boards for almost nothing. Many people have them sitting around and just use them for burning. Those oak boards are so dense that the grain is beautiful and they are harder than steel. I have a source if anyone is interested or at least my source used to have them.
- Status
Similar threads
Premier Sponsors
Contact for your financial processing needs!
Our Sponsors
LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS
-
For Sale Shop Spring cleaning - tools/ lumber/ slabs close(ish) to picnic site- Started by HMH
- Replies: 0
-
-
Looking for Insert Rings for a Cast-Iron Bench Dog Router Lift
- Started by whitecrane8
- Replies: 6
-
-
