Workbench project completed

[cyclopentadiene]

I finally completed my workbench, almost. The top is 48" x24" x 2.75" thick. The entire bench is made of 8/4 ash. The base is mortise and tennoned and also contains oak dowels through the tennons for strength. All end pieces are 4" x4" and the stringers are 8/4 stock and 3 1/2". for the top rail and 4" for the bottom rail I ebonized the base using tannin treatment followed by iron acetate ( made from vinegar and steel wool). The final color has some deep blue undertones so I applied a coat of min way polyurethane followed by 4 coats of satin polyurethane. The top is banded using some of the lumber run walnut. It is dovetailed at the corners and the ends are attached with lag screws to allow fo movement of the ash top. The rear tool tray base is also ebonized both top and bottom. This should be heave enough as to not move across the shop when using a handplane like my former Sjorberg bench.

I still need to add a front vise and then drill the dog holes. I am waiting until the summer to go th Atlanta and pick up a Patternmakers vise and want to have the top fastened and dog holes aligned properly with the vise. I am also planning to build a cabinet with drawers to go between the stringers to hold my hand tools and sharpening supplies.

 

[Charlie]

Great looking workbench.

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Don't get me wrong. That is an absolute beautiful piece. I REALLY like it. It's is however, a dinner table.

 

[Hmerkle]

Don't get me wrong. That is an absolute beautiful piece. I REALLY like it. It's is however, a dinner table.

Too bad there is not a "Thumbs down" button at NCWW, as I disagree...

The craftsmanship of that bench is awesome and in the classic European workbench style with a little color flair!

 

[Wyatt Co.]

So which part of what I said do you disagree with?

All that poly on top is not going to be fun down the road.

 

[Hmerkle]

So which part of what I said do you disagree with?

All that poly on top is not going to be fun down the road.

AH!
You meant it was a dinner table because of how it was finished, not because it was a trestle-style design... that is clearer.

I wouldn't put a Poly on a workbench, but some people do...

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Too bad there is not a "Thumbs down" button at NCWW,

:thumbs_do Here ya go, Hank. :thumbs_up

 

[David Justice]

Cool looking bench! Don't know how long you have been using it, but do you like the tool trough so far?
Trying to decide weather to put one on mine or not.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I had a tool tray on my Sjobergs and it saved me several times from a rolling bench chisel hitting the shop floor. The downfall is that they become a junk collecting tray.

In terms of my choice of a poly finish compared to an oil finish. I place my sharpening stones on my workbench as well as any oils that I use for sharpening. These wipe right off of polyurethane a do not soak in. I found with the Sjobergs bench ( not sure exactly how they finish them) that the oil seemed to penetrate the finish and left stains etc. as many of May have noticed, my bench is just 48" long compared to the 60" or more. The reason is that I generally only use the Bose end of the bench for shaping maloof parts. I really do not want an end vise or other types. The Emerett copy patternmakers vise is very flexible and will suit 99% of my needs. I sharpen, do hand planing, handsawing and work with rasps and sanders at the workbench.

I have thought about using the 4" square dog hole pattern typical for the Festool MFT. These are expensive and take a lot of shop space. If a MDF Tito drilled with the same hole pattern works my plan is to use the bench with my Festool track for saw cuts and router work.

I generally use use my out feed table for glue up and assembly as it is larger. I have a piece of laminate that I place on the bench for glue ups. I have this coated with polyurethane as well. It does get damaged, glue etc. from time to time. I just sand with 220'and apply a new coat of polyurethane from time to time. It is not beautiful after long term use but it works.

in terms of the black base with the ash. This was a finishing test on a piece that does not matter. I want to build a table with black legs. I realize that over time the bench base will get dinged, scratched etc. it is a shop piece, so what. This made a great piece to practice finishing.

 

[danmart77]

So which part of what I said do you disagree with?

All that poly on top is not going to be fun down the road.

Bill
I could not agree more. I learned sadly but well that putting a slick protective coat of anything on a bench surface can be a mistake. Depends what you plan to do with your bench.

When I built this bench a couple years ago, I decided to lightly protect the surface with some floor wax. If you look at the shelf below you will see the little can(yellow and red) of wax. Yep I applied a light coat of the stuff to the top of the bench so glue drops would slide off. Mistake.

After putting wax on the surface I could not get my holdfasts to work like before. I use them all day and that just would not cut it with me. Out came the mineral spirits and naptha and scrubbing. Better. With a rag and some lacquer thinner it is now wax free and the holdfasts work again.

Lesson learned.


I must admit I do a little hide glue work on the bench when I don't want to move the pot. I try to use a glue table surface.

Here is the glue up table, router table and paint table with lazy Sue. I didn't think the LS gear someone gave me would be worth using but it turns out I am finishing most all of the chairs and small things without moving it and getting paint all over. Might be something to build. I don't do any of that on my workbench.

When dry I use my bench to level and cut legs. I spent a bunch of time getting the surface flat and level. It helps when chair building.

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[Jim Wallace]

Your bench came out beautifully, Jeff. The base looks pretty black to me!