Wood carving workbench

[Bill]

I am building a wood carvers workbench

from fir and am wondering how to finish it. There is room on the back for a tool tray and back board and my original plan was to use some recycled stuff which can be seen stacked against the wall. However, I am now thinking about using some kind of finish on the bench - a shellac sealer followed by some kind of oil or maybe just the oil - and figure it wouldn't look so good. Also, am thinking of adding tool holders to the back board and carving a relief of some sort.

Opinions welcomed.

 

[DaveO]

I would consider either a store bought oil/poly blend or make some yourself 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 gloss poly. Wipe it on, several applications should protect it well and it always can be re-applied if the finish starts to wear. My .02, Dave

 

[Bill]

thanks, I think I'll try some different approaches on some scraps. No particular poly?

 

[Travis Porter]

I like BLO, but I like Watco as well and have used it on benches before. Dries quicker than undiluted BLO, but I haven't tried diluting BLO (yet).

 

[DaveO]

Watco Danish Oil is the most often used finish in my shop. But it is a little pricey to do big pieces with, that is why I suggested making your own. No special poly other than oil based. Dave

 

[D L Ames]

Nice looking bench Bill.:icon_thum I don't really have any solid recommendations on the finish other than to echo what Dave recommended.

D L

 

[Travis Porter]

I have been playing with BLO (sounds like something illegal), and have thought about doing a concoction like you suggest for the heck of it. Does it behave differently, ie dry faster, more film, what?

To me BLO dries really slow. I used it on a mitersaw cabinet and after three days it still was tacky in places, hence my questions.

 

[DaveO]

Travis, a blend like I spoke of does dry faster than straight BLO alone, but still not very fast, prolly by the next day. It is a finish you can build up slightly due to the poly content. It is a all in one finish. BLO alone doesn't really protect the surface of the wood, and poly doesn't give a warmth and grain/figure enhancement like BLO. Mineral spirits just thins them to make them more wipeable. My .02, Dave

 

[Mountaincraft]

No one suggested tung oil. It does an ok job of protection, dries a little faster, and mixtures are available lots of places. Is linseed oil a fashion?

For a semi warm look and great durability, try epoxy rotten wood restorer without a base coat. If you want color, try a dye, but not stain. Stain prevents the epoxy from soaking in, which is its benefit. Costs, though.

 

[Bill]

Watco Danish Oil is the most often used finish in my shop. But it is a little pricey to do big pieces with, that is why I suggested making your own. No special poly other than oil based. Dave

will this stuff work on MDF as well? am building an assembly table with 3/4 MDF from a workbench plan.

 

[DaveO]

Definately, the MDF will really soak it up so make sure you have a lot. I was putting some shellac on MDF last night for my router table and was amazed at the amount it sucked up especially the edges. I was using amber shellac and just seconds after brushing it on heavily, I couldn't tell that I had even applied it. Whatever you use, you need to seal the MDF, it will suck up moisture like the shellac and swell.
Dave

 

[Bill]

Definately, the MDF will really soak it up so make sure you have a lot. I was putting some shellac on MDF last night for my router table and was amazed at the amount it sucked up especially the edges. I was using amber shellac and just seconds after brushing it on heavily, I couldn't tell that I had even applied it. Whatever you use, you need to seal the MDF, it will suck up moisture like the shellac and swell.
Dave

the whole thing is made of MDF and mostly glued together. Can I use Gorilla glue or Titebond III to glue it up? Workbench recommends filling the edges with Durhams water putty, priming it and then painting. Except where the top is banded with 3/8 pine.

 

[McRabbet]

Bill,

I would prime it with a good shellac-based primer (e.g., Zinsser's) and then paint, or preferably, I would put a durable top on it like plastic laminate or tempered hardboard. Use Contact cement -- two coats on the MDF and hardboard (1st will soak in too much to glue) and one coat on the laminate. Use several pieces of dowel to lay the new top surface in place and then remove them carefully from the middle once it's aligned (as you probably know, once those surfaces meet, you can't move them!). Use a dry paint roller (or a J-roller if you have one) to roll out any air bubbles. The advantage of laminate is that future glue-ups won't stick to it and it's pretty durable. Look at your local Lowe's or BORG for chipped pieces on sale.

Rob

 

[Bill]

Bill,

I would prime it with a good shellac-based primer (e.g., Zinsser's) and then paint, or preferably, I would put a durable top on it like plastic laminate or tempered hardboard. Use Contact cement -- two coats on the MDF and hardboard (1st will soak in too much to glue) and one coat on the laminate. Use several pieces of dowel to lay the new top surface in place and then remove them carefully from the middle once it's aligned (as you probably know, once those surfaces meet, you can't move them!). Use a dry paint roller (or a J-roller if you have one) to roll out any air bubbles. The advantage of laminate is that future glue-ups won't stick to it and it's pretty durable. Look at your local Lowe's or BORG for chipped pieces on sale.

Rob

Thanks, as glueing up is one thing this thing is for, that's a great suggestion. Now to see if I can find my Kilz.

 

[Bill]

will the same formula work with tung oil? I found a can of that looking for the BLO...

Travis, a blend like I spoke of does dry faster than straight BLO alone, but still not very fast, prolly by the next day. It is a finish you can build up slightly due to the poly content. It is a all in one finish. BLO alone doesn't really protect the surface of the wood, and poly doesn't give a warmth and grain/figure enhancement like BLO. Mineral spirits just thins them to make them more wipeable. My .02, Dave

 

[DaveO]

If it is real tung oil. Most that you find on the shelves is a oil/varish blend just like Danish Oil. Frombys Tung Oil finish is one of the more common. If it says somewhere on the labeling 100% pure Tung oil then it should be but if it doesn't I would suspect that it is a blend...then just use it like the Danish Oil or wiping varnish.

Dave

 

[Bill]

Ok, finally broke down and got some Crown BLO, Crown odorless mineral spirits and MinWax semi-gloss poly at Lowe's and mixed up a batch. It went on nicely, dried to touch in 2 or 3 hours and recoated easily the next day. Looks great. I am wondering what it would look like on some refrig magnet, humming bird carvings.

I would consider either a store bought oil/poly blend or make some yourself 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 gloss poly. Wipe it on, several applications should protect it well and it always can be re-applied if the finish starts to wear. My .02, Dave

 

[D L Ames]

Bill, I can't speak for how well the BLO would do on your carving but I just wanted to tell you that is one very sharp looking Hummingbird. All of the details are so sharp on it. It looks great.:icon_thum

D L

 

[Bill]

Thanks! got the pattern from Wood Carving Magazine. The detail comes from a burner lent to me by a neighbor and is now complete with the eye "punched" in with a nail punch. I have a few more underway to try different finishes and paint schemes with an artist friend. The result will be fastened to a house number sign. Its like tying flies, the more you do the easier it gets.

 

[michaelgarner]

Anyone want a free bench? I purchaed it at Sams back in 99, Its not an awsome bench by any standards but it does have two vices on it with dog holes. Im redoing my shop and would love to see it leave. PM me if intersted. No pics yet,,wife still has it in cali
Be blessed friends.