Which species to use

[Gotcha6]

I'm getting ready to tackle some pepper mills. Any recommendations on best/worst/never use for species?
This darkside thing is gettin' me. I never realized there was so much flat work t' gettin' something round!

 

[TracyP]

. I never realized there was so much flat work t' gettin' something round!

That is sooooo true, did you hear that jeff.....:rotflm:

 

[jeff...]

This darkside thing is gettin' me.

Not you too... Black Walnut and Maple

 

[jeff...]

That is sooooo true, did you hear that jeff.....:rotflm:

Come Come - I know better... you can take a lopsided twisted old hack of a chunk of wood and make it round. Don't try and pull the wool over my eyes... :gar-La;

One of these day I will show you what I turned, back when I was a younger and wilder jeff... and it'll prove there is a way back from the darkside.

 

[DaveO]

I'm getting ready to tackle some pepper mills. Any recommendations on best/worst/never use for species?
This darkside thing is gettin' me. I never realized there was so much flat work t' gettin' something round!

For a Pepper-mill, just like a cutting board it is best to use a tight grained wood or woods. Maple, Beech, Cherry are great. But seeing as a Pepper-mill will only hold Pepper corns, that is not as important as on a cutting board. I would avoid strong scented woods like Sassafras and ERC as they might give the pepper a little of their own flavor. Other than that I recommend a lamination of the wood to get the thickness. It is hard to find dry 12/4 stock and you don't want any movement in the mill.

MTCW,
Dave

 

[Gotcha6]

I've been making pen blanks. Trying to do some Celtic knots. Never saw one done except the pics on this site so I thought I'd give it a try. Here's what I hafta do to get a blank to the lathe:
1. Raw wood stock has to be sawn to the proper thicknesses - table saw.
2. Stock has to be cut to proper length - miter saw.
3. Stock has to be miter cut to receive contrasting wood for Celtic knot - special table saw sled for the blanks.
4. Have to rip thin strips for knot stock - started too soon to learn about thin strip ripping jig - DOH! Need to make Zero clearance insert for thin strips.
5. Cut up thin strips for knot stock inserts - miter saw.
6. Cut & glue & cut& sand & cut & glue & cut & sand& cut & glue & cut & sand & cut & glue & cut & sand- band saw & table saw & special sled.
7. Stock has to be cut to fit pen sleeve - miter saw.
8. Stock has to be drilled - drill press & special jig to hold blank square.
9. Stock has to be end milled - special tool from Woodcraft.
10. Mandrel requires bushings for the style of pen to be made - another trip to Woodcraft.
11. I FINALLY get to put a piece of wood on the spinny thingy.
Don't take this post as a complaint. I've enjoyed every step and challenge of it - and I'm looking forward to seeing it through to the end. I just hope the people getting these as gifts don't say, "Is this all you got me?" I might be on the 6:00 news if they do.:rotflm:
I wonder what they'll be serving for supper in the county jail on Christmas night? :gar-La;

 

[Gotcha6]

Other than that I recommend a lamination of the wood to get the thickness. It is hard to find dry 12/4 stock and you don't want any movement in the mill.

Dave, I salvaged some 4/4 mahogany a few months back from a project. Any reason it can't be used for my purpose? I'd have to dress off the finish but I've already glued up one block to see if it'd work.
My lathe is kinda skimpy on the tailstock end(old 'Kenmore') but I figured I'd bore it on the DP & use a mandrel plug to get it spinning.

 

[Mike Davis]

Sycamore is the best wood for food contact in that it contribute least to the taste of the food, beech and maple are next.

Unless you can get highly figured wood they are all rather bland. Since you may want to laminate for strength and less movement I would suggest making the lamination so that the cleaner wood is inside and what ever wild wood you can get on the outside away from the food.

 

[DaveO]

High quality custom pens ain't that easy to pull off. They involve every aspect of the workshop. The turning is the easy part. I've spent a half day on making a blank to turn it and finish it in an hour or so.

Dave