So I’m going to get a hand plane just to flatten boards 2-4ft in length after they are mostly flat from the jointer. My technique isn’t the best on the jointer and it’s easier for me to hand plane the first face until I can get better at using the jointer. I have $200 GC at Klingspor. Which plane would be best for this use?
Which hand plane is best for this use?
- Thread starter Caseykasem
- Start date
Casey, I am still learning to use hand planes, so I have no advise for you on this subject. However, before you buy any plane you may want to test feel how the plane feels in your hands. Once our resident experts have given you their advise then try to handle the suggested ones and go from there.
For me most planes are too small and therefore, uncomfortable, due to the size of my hands.
Good luck in your new journey!
For me most planes are too small and therefore, uncomfortable, due to the size of my hands.
Good luck in your new journey!
You will work yourself to death trying to flatten a board with one plane. You need at least two and possibly a third.
First you need something that will quickly take off rough, thick, shavings. I use a #6 with the blade ground to an eight inch radius.
Some people use a #40 scrub plane but that is too small for me. Some use a number 5 with the rounded blade.
But, the idea is the same. Make quick work of removing as much wood as possible in the shortest time with the least work.
Then you need to level out the slight dips and waves left by the first operation.
For this you need a jointer plane, either a #7 or a #8. This will allow you to flatten and level the board.
If you then plan to use a power planer then that is as far as you need to go. But, if you want to hand plane the finished board
then you will need a #4 that is finely tuned and super sharp to get that high sheen clean surface that is almost ready to finish.
So, it is really a 3 or 4 step process that requires different tools for each stage of the work.
First you need something that will quickly take off rough, thick, shavings. I use a #6 with the blade ground to an eight inch radius.
Some people use a #40 scrub plane but that is too small for me. Some use a number 5 with the rounded blade.
But, the idea is the same. Make quick work of removing as much wood as possible in the shortest time with the least work.
Then you need to level out the slight dips and waves left by the first operation.
For this you need a jointer plane, either a #7 or a #8. This will allow you to flatten and level the board.
If you then plan to use a power planer then that is as far as you need to go. But, if you want to hand plane the finished board
then you will need a #4 that is finely tuned and super sharp to get that high sheen clean surface that is almost ready to finish.
So, it is really a 3 or 4 step process that requires different tools for each stage of the work.
#5 benchplane is the first plane I pick up in flattening one side of a board. I don’t own a power jointer so #5 to get basically flat then #7 to joint and finally run through thickness planer for second side is what I do. #4 is generally for smoothing.
I don’t have a power planer but I do have a 6” jet closed stand jointer. When I joint the board it is nearly flat and I just need a plane to “touch up” the board before sending through the planer. Do you really think I need all three for that?
"the planer" that is your power planer? on a stand or portable sitting on a table, like a lunchbox planer...
Not clear on that...
Probably a #5 will do what you want.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sw12905/
Not clear on that...
Probably a #5 will do what you want.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sw12905/
Oh duh I misunderstood. I was thinking the handheld power planer. Yes I have a DW734. Thank you so much!
All really good advise, you have shown four products that you are asking advise on. I can’t speak for the standard Stanley planes you shown because I haven’t used then new. However, you will have some work to do before using them. They do not come sharp and ready to go. The new Sweet Heart version of the Stanley planes I can not recommend. The few I have owned have been very disappointing. The casting of the body is uneven and the blade bed was uneven in relation to the sole. Not just on one but all of them. What I use for most of my planes are antiques that I have restored. So if I were in your shoes, I’d try and find a vintage plane or planes. The Klingspor location nearest you actually has some vintage planes for sale in the store. So those may be worth a look.
I have not seen or used any of the new Stanley planes. I didn't know they had problems.
I also use only older (pre 50s) planes. I also teach sharpening, setting up, and using hand planes.
I would recommend getting someone to help you get started with hand planes.
A few hours with an experienced user will save you money, time, and frustration.
Mike already gave a good overview of using different planes for prepping stock. There are also a lot of great resources online. Chris Schwarz puts out many in-depth articles and would be worth a read. Here is one for example: Bench Planes: The System of Three | Popular Woodworking Magazine
As for hand plane purchasing -- I would strongly advise to stay AWAY from new Stanley planes. Stanley is unfortunately not what they used to be. Much lower quality parts and their quality control is just non-existent, so the products are all over the place.
I know you said you have gift cards -- Does Klingspor's let you use gift cards on used tools? I know at least the Cary location usually has a fair inventory of vintage tools for sale. You would be much better off with a Pre-WWII Stanley plane compared to something new from Stanely. You would also save money.
As for hand plane purchasing -- I would strongly advise to stay AWAY from new Stanley planes. Stanley is unfortunately not what they used to be. Much lower quality parts and their quality control is just non-existent, so the products are all over the place.
I know you said you have gift cards -- Does Klingspor's let you use gift cards on used tools? I know at least the Cary location usually has a fair inventory of vintage tools for sale. You would be much better off with a Pre-WWII Stanley plane compared to something new from Stanely. You would also save money.
I’ve had a time getting the boards I’m trying to use flat. I built a sled but it wouldn’t come out right after going through the planer. So I got the jointer and I’m almost there but not quite.
If you get a #5 or even a #6 you can set up the original blade for scrubbing and buy a Veritas blade and chip breaker (which is thicker) for finer work.
Because the finishing blade is thicker you won't need to adjust the frog to close the mouth.
Because the finishing blade is thicker you won't need to adjust the frog to close the mouth.
I think that’s what I’ll do. Thanks so much.
I'm a complete neophyte with hand planes, but I will knock off the highest points of a board with a jack plane so I don't have to make bunches of passes on the jointer.
Im still trying to wrap my head around not flat from the jointer......
Well it could be any of bad technique, no experience or poor setup. Or any combination of the previous.
Just an opinion, but if you are only going to get one plane it would be one of two:
Least expensive would be an old Stanley/Bailey #6. The six has enough heft for scrub work, and is long enough to do a good job of flattening. My first one was a $45 #6 and worked out well for me.
More expensive but very versatile with the blade options is a Veritas low angle jack plane. It also has good heft and is very adjustable for almost any task. (edit): It is not well suited for scrub work due to the low bed angle.
One thing to consider before just going with a hand plane. For most hand plane work, you need a solid work bench with the ability to secure your work. Doesn't have to be fancy, but does need to be solid enough not to move.
Least expensive would be an old Stanley/Bailey #6. The six has enough heft for scrub work, and is long enough to do a good job of flattening. My first one was a $45 #6 and worked out well for me.
More expensive but very versatile with the blade options is a Veritas low angle jack plane. It also has good heft and is very adjustable for almost any task. (edit): It is not well suited for scrub work due to the low bed angle.
One thing to consider before just going with a hand plane. For most hand plane work, you need a solid work bench with the ability to secure your work. Doesn't have to be fancy, but does need to be solid enough not to move.
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Casey, take the above advice and make a 25 minute trip from Apex to the The Woodwright's School 89 A Hillsboro St, Pittsboro, NC. You need to visit Ed's hand tool shop located above The Woodwright's School. You will find great deals on used hand tools ready to use.
Totally agree that Ed's is great, but I don't believe that they're accepting walk-ins right now. I think the store is open to people taking classes at the school, but not to others. That being said, Ed is great about email requests and will send pictures of tools he has in stock if you know what you're looking for.
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