which BS blade best for cutting circles

[William Roscoe]

I've been using .5", 3TPI but it's a bit too wide. I've got a persimmon log I'm going to cut into rounds and it will be about 8" thick and I'm afraid it will not work. Maybe .25", 3TPI???:dontknow:

 

[Travis Porter]

The width of the blade is going to affect how tight a circle you can cut. For cutting out turning stuff, I would think a 1/2" blade would be ok, but maybe not. You might want to consider a skip tooth or one with less TPI. I suspect this wood is still green and it could be clogging causing some of your problems.

 

[William Roscoe]

I first tried using the .5" blade on some green spalted maple and had a little trbl getting it to turn when I got to the thick part of the circle. I'm afraid persimmon is going to be a bit harder and thicker.

 

[Howard Acheson]

Refer to the chart below to determine the minimum curve radius attainable for your band saw blade thickness.
Band Saw Blade Minimum Radius Curves
Blade Width Minimum Radius
If your blade width = 1/8" (3.2mm) your minimum radius is 1/4" (6.4mm)
If your blade width = 1/4" (6.4mm) your minimum radius is 3/4" (19.1mm)
If your blade width = 3/8" (9.5mm) your minimum radius is 1" (25.4mm)
If your blade width = 1/2" (12.7mm) your minimum radius is 2-1/2" (57.2mm)

In addition, smooth the back edges of the blade will improve circle cutting. Use an old, fine oil stone. Press it against the back edges while the blade is turning. Be careful of sparks lighting any sawdust in the lower wheel compartment. Clean it out carefully before smoothing.

 

[Ken Massingale]

I first tried using the .5" blade on some green spalted maple and had a little trbl getting it to turn when I got to the thick part of the circle. I'm afraid persimmon is going to be a bit harder and thicker.

Off on a tangent I know, but..

Green spalted Maple, what is that, please? I have some green maple and lots of spalted maple, but green wood and spalt don't go together for me.
I need some learning on this, if someone can help.
Thanks

 

[William Roscoe]

I'm probably saying it wrong. By green I mean it still is very wet.

 

[Ken Massingale]

Ah, water wet, not sap wet?

Thanks William.

 

[cpowell]

I haven't tried it yet but bought a 1/2 x 3 AS (alternate set) for green wood. I wonder if the AS style clears the green wood fibers better than a PC (positive claw) style?

The 1/2 x 3 AS is for 6 - 12 inch thick stock.

Now, I can't help but wonder how the blade will work circle cutting green bowl stock. I bet it could load up pretty good with long fibers. :dontknow:


Chuck

 

[DaveO]

You might want to consider a skip tooth or one with less TPI. I suspect this wood is still green and it could be clogging causing some of your problems.

Travis hit it right on the head. Green wood is going to cut much different than dried wood. I suggest you try these -
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944.

Dave

 

[William Roscoe]

Thanks for the help. I ordered a 3/8X 3TPI and 1/4X 4TPI yesterday. I liked the idea of AS but didn't get that message before ordering. I wish I had ordered from HH like DaveO suggested because the shipping from BC Saw and tool was $25!! Live and learn. I'll try filing the back,also.

 

[Mike Davis]

I have been thinking about this too, I believe a good circle jig would help. I'm thinking about making one that could be used with the screw hole drilled for the lathe.

Maybe adjust the center post to the selected diameter, set the blank on the post and spin the blank into the blade? Should take some of the unevenness out of the cut and make the blank better balanced.