What's my problem? 10"CMS bogging down on 5/4 Cherry.....

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HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Murphy's Law - I spent some time in the shop this past weekend, for the first time in several.

I needed to cut a 45 deg. miter in some 5/4 Cherry stock, so I tilted the blade to 45, and proceeded as usual. When I contacted the wood, i almost immediately smelled the blade burning in, and felt it bog down. I gave up before making it through the wood, and resorted to using my table saw instead, (though w/ the blade cranked to full height, I have a slight - 1/32 or so gap in the joint). I've made this simple miter cut several times in the past w/ my CMS no problems. Any ideas?

Details:

Wood - 3/4" KD Cherry

Saw - 10" Dewalt single bevel CMS. Approx 4 years old. Freud 40T TK 10" crosscut blade.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Plug it in....



:rotflm:Sorry, couldn't resist.

A dirty or backward blade was my first thought as well. Second thought was electrical - are you using a long extension cord?
 

BSHuff

New User
Brian
Other than what was already posted..

Is the arbor and blade clamp pieces clean? Some debris or saw dust build up could cause the blade to have excessive run-out making the blade work much harder than it needs.

I however think you are missing the most obvious solution to this problem which is a new bigger better saw! :gar-Bi
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
If the blade is on backwards, just turn the saw around.

:rotflm: ... and don't forget to reverse the plug!

Otherwise, my thoughts are very much in line with others:

1) Check the blade: Backwards; covered in pitch; dulled or chipped teeth, right blade for the job? Is the blade still flat or has it become warped?

2) Check the electrical: Brushes worn (not likely in 4 years unless a contractor)? Long extension cord or bad plug/receptacle? Are you sharing the circuit with other accessories (like shop vac, space heater, etc.)?

3) Check the wood: Is there movement (either externally or from internal stresses) that is causing the board to pinch the blade?

4) Check the saw: Is the blade travelling in a straight line through the wood (moving in a single plane through the wood)? If there are worn bushings, bearings, etc, then there could be movement in two planes causing some of the force to be applied laterally to the blade which would yield a poor cut and place considerable stress on the blade which would then increase the load on the motor.

HTH
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Thanks for the feedback guys. I checked the basics when I ran into the problem, but in the effort to maximize my super-limited shop time, moved onto "Plan B" to save the more involved troubleshooting for another day.

Quick checks:


  1. Blade is in correct orientation
  2. Blade is sharp
  3. Blade is clean(ish), wouldn't hurt to clean it though - will do one night this week
  4. Hmm.....different outlet, but same circuit w/ air cleaner, & radio - will check
  5. no immediately noticeable bearing play.....

The mystery continues, but I'm glad to hear I'm not crazy! Thanks again for the feedback, I'll keep you posted.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
The mystery continues, but I'm glad to hear I'm not crazy!
I don't think anyone confirmed or denied your sanity. The jury is still out on that, depending on what you find next. :rolf:
 

SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
Could the blade be on backwards? I have done it once or so:embaresse

You mean there is more than one way the blade can go on? :swoon: :swoon: :swoon: :rotflm:

I once cross cut a whole sheet of plywood with a circular saw with the blade on backwards. The blade was so damaged, I bought a brand new blade and tried again. When that failed, I threw out the saw and bought a new one. A few weeks later, a post on this site made me realize what I must have done:kamahlitu:rotflm:
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
It does sound like a dull or gummed up blade.

Did you/can you try switching to a fresh blade ?

I suppose it's also possible that the wood is pinching the blade ('reaction wood').

-Mark
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Heath, Here is my guess. check the rear fence to make sure it is exactly straight. All miter saws tend to push the center of the fence back and need to be adjusted every now and then. When the fence is bowed back you really do not notice a problem when cutting at 90 but at 45 the bow will push the wood into one side of blade or the other . place a very straight edge against the fence and check the fence alignment. I normally adjust for a slight bow out towards the operator as the saw will quickly pull it in
 

Asheville Hardware

New User
Asheville Hardware
Heath, Here is my guess. check the rear fence to make sure it is exactly straight. All miter saws tend to push the center of the fence back and need to be adjusted every now and then. When the fence is bowed back you really do not notice a problem when cutting at 90 but at 45 the bow will push the wood into one side of blade or the other . place a very straight edge against the fence and check the fence alignment. I normally adjust for a slight bow out towards the operator as the saw will quickly pull it in

This would be my guess as well. I have to readjust the fence on my 12" Bosch all the time.

Scott
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Originally Posted by Phil S
Heath, Here is my guess. check the rear fence to make sure it is exactly straight. All miter saws tend to push the center of the fence back and need to be adjusted every now and then. When the fence is bowed back you really do not notice a problem when cutting at 90 but at 45 the bow will push the wood into one side of blade or the other . place a very straight edge against the fence and check the fence alignment. I normally adjust for a slight bow out towards the operator as the saw will quickly pull it in


I believe that if the blade has any tilt it could cause this. Is the blade straight up at 90 deg?
Measured from the table; not the insert.
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Heath, Here is my guess. check the rear fence to make sure it is exactly straight. All miter saws tend to push the center of the fence back and need to be adjusted every now and then. When the fence is bowed back you really do not notice a problem when cutting at 90 but at 45 the bow will push the wood into one side of blade or the other . place a very straight edge against the fence and check the fence alignment. I normally adjust for a slight bow out towards the operator as the saw will quickly pull it in

And that was it exactly!

The fence was only kicked out 1/16" or so, but aligning it made a world of difference. I would never have thought to check that.

Thanks guys!
 

MikeH

New User
Mike
And that was it exactly!

The fence was only kicked out 1/16" or so, but aligning it made a world of difference. I would never have thought to check that.

Thanks guys!

Glad to hear you got it resolved and it's a good mental not for me to check my miter saw. :icon_thum
 
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