What is the’best’ joint for shelves on a utility cabinet

[jimb97239]

Let me say first, I understand there’s probably lots of strongly held opinions on the subject, but at the risk of starting a war …

I need to put together a utility cabinet for my work space/shed. It will be ~15wx15dx52h.
keep in mind I’m not looking for heirloom quality, just sturdy but I want it as quick and dirty as I can. It will mostly be used to store boxes of nails, so they will be fairly heavy.

For carcass corners, which is ‘best’?
Rabbited
Simple butt?

For shelves, which is best’?
Dado
Simple butt
Butt supported by a cleat?

I assume all options will be glued.

Thanks for feedback
Jimb

 

[Mike Davis]

Sorry, I’m not touching this.

 

[creasman]

I recommend making the shelves adjustable unless you're certain about the height of each. If it's a tall cabinet you can make a middle shelf fixed for added strength/stability and leave the ones above and below adjustable.

 

[mdbuntyn]

I like rabbets and dadoes

 

[tvrgeek]

The one you can cut reliably and works with the glue you select. Most decent glues are now stronger than the wood.
I like rabbets and dado's to help hold in alignment, but I also fool with lock miter joints, butt with pin nails, simple miters, fingers ( large) biscuits, dowels and pocket screws. Pick your poison and learn it. I hate cleats as they always seem to be just in the way of something.
For shed storage, I like the nice heavy double rail adjustable brackets and 2 x 12's.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

First question: Are you using plywood for the sides and back?

If so, for a utility cabinet, assuming the shelves are going to be relatively permanent in place (not adjustable), I would use a cleat and NO GLUE.

For the carcass corners I would go w/ a simple butt and pocket hole screws. If you can't do pocket holes, then a rabbited joint. WITH GLUE.

 

[Bas]

All of the above options are CORRECT. The only RIGHT answer however is to join the shelves to the sides using Dominos, since this will give you an excuse to buy a new tool

As for speed, cleats are the fastest, butt joints with screws work great too, and dados look the cleanest. Only piece of advice I have is to create a spacer from a scrap piece of plywood to ensure the shelves are joined to the sides at a consistent spot. Start with the top shelf and shorten the spacer as you go. 3/4" plywood if you're storing anvils and bowling balls, 1/2" plywood probably OK for storing screws and nails.

 

[Warped Woodwerks]

Sorry, I’m not touching this.

Too late.

 

[Oka]

The best joints for making utility cabinets and shelves, are the ones that do not hurt when you are done....

 

[Skymaster]

Adjustable, I stopped fixed shelves 20 years ago. You NEVER know what will be on them so move them however you like.

 

[McRabbet]

I am a proponent of adjustable shelves, so I'd make a template using a piece of pegboard (or you may have a commercial one like I do) and drill stopped holes for shelf pins at 1" intervals near the front and back to support shelves at any level you want. Easy way to insure you can have storage at the heights you need. If you are storing heavier items, nail a 3/4" x 1-1/2" strip across the front of each shelf to add strength.

 

[bob vaughan]

KV 255/256
Been around for over half century and for good reason.
height adjusts in 1/2" increments for maximum use of space for specific items.

 

[petebucy4638]

All of the above options are CORRECT. The only RIGHT answer however is to join the shelves to the sides using Dominos, since this will give you an excuse to buy a new tool

As for speed, cleats are the fastest, butt joints with screws work great too, and dados look the cleanest. Only piece of advice I have is to create a spacer from a scrap piece of plywood to ensure the shelves are joined to the sides at a consistent spot. Start with the top shelf and shorten the spacer as you go. 3/4" plywood if you're storing anvils and bowling balls, 1/2" plywood probably OK for storing screws and nails.

My favorite projects are those that require that I buy a new tool, or two. However, as my tool collection grew, it has become difficult to think of new projects that I can't easily build with my current inventory of tools.

 

[Mike Davis]

And I have always tried to complete any job with only the tools I have. To have to buy a tool is a failure. Ingenuity, creativity, inventive use of my tools & skills are my strengths. I like tools and I buy tools for fun and profit but I don’t need a project as an excuse to buy a tool.

 

[JimD]

I agree with another Jim, I would have a fixed middle shelf and adjustable shelves above and below it. 1/4 inch shelf pins hold better than 5mm. I like to use shallow dados and rabbits more to locate the pieces than to add gluing area. That also leaves the uprights nearly full thickness. My latest favorite way to make them is with a router and my track saw track. I have a little jig from DeWalt (the maker of my track saw) that fits my PC 690 routers. A little 1/8 -1/16 inch deep cut can be made in one pass with a mid sized router. I have both a 3/4 and a 23/32 straight bit for this. It is best to not cut the uprights to width until after cutting the dados so you can make them in the same place on both pieces. Not a bad idea to go ahead and drill the shelf pin holes then too.

I like to use through screws and glue to join the case. Pocket screws work fine too but sometimes they poke through if the screw is over tightened. The ugly pocket could be on the top and bottom where it won't show, however.

 

[DavidEE]

Just built some cabinets with dadoes, glue and through screws. Overkill, but they ain't going come apart. Only 1 fixed middle shelf. Rest are adjustable.

 

[junquecol]

KV 255/256
Been around for over half century and for good reason.
height adjusts in 1/2" increments for maximum use of space for specific items.

Heavy enough to support shelves of books, so should work for storage. With pins and holes, only four points support the weight, while with KV adjustables, it supported at multiple points and at bottom.

 

[jimb97239]

thanks all for the comments, I think I have a path to follow... I hadn't thought about adjustable, but sound advice given, so I think I'll go that way with glued/screwed butt joints for one fixed shelf and the top/sides.
I like buying tools too, but I have to justify space more than cost at this point ... I if I get something new, something has to go out to make room.

 

[JoeSkinner]

Do a Google image search for sawtooth shelf support. I did this for a shop cabinet, but added a third cleat along the back. The shelves are supported on 3 sides and I used 3/4 ply. They hold quite a bit.