As another poster said... has the Oriental / Japanese's influence what wood specie used ?made a couple Greene and Greene inspired end tables to match the sofa table I made a couple years ago. View attachment 244397
As another poster said... has the Oriental / Japanese's influence what wood specie used ?made a couple Greene and Greene inspired end tables to match the sofa table I made a couple years ago. View attachment 244397
wood is african mahogany with katalox accents, dyed with transtint orange and brown finished with ArmRSealAs another poster said... has the Oriental / Japanese's influence what wood specie used ?![]()
Beautiful... I like the design in the base of the chairs.. an the table.. Excellent color / texture in the seat cushions . What final finish was used ?Finished the chairs that go with the table I made previously.
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Dark walnut water based pore filler, Rubio Monocoat (dark walnut), RM Sheen Plus.Beautiful... I like the design in the base of the chairs.. an the table.. Excellent color / texture in the seat cushions . What final finish was used ?![]()
I will write those products down in my note book... ThanksDark walnut water based pore filler, Rubio Monocoat (dark walnut), RM Sheen Plus.
Really nice design and work!Finished the chairs that go with the table I made previously.
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Mike,I am near the end of my gate project and thinking about the next several designs I want to build.
So, I was wondering what everybody else is working on.
Even if you are not ready to show it to the world can you please just give us a hint?
One of the things I have worked on and built several times were shave horses.
Still not happy with any I have, so thinking about ways to improve work holding, comfort for long work hours, portability,
storage, and unique design features.
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(Free Stock Photo)
No, I'm still thinking about a modular design that can be adapted for several tasks.Mike,
Did you ever get back to a shavehorse design that you are happy (or happy enough) with?
Dark walnut water based pore filler, Rubio Monocoat (dark walnut), RM Sheen Plus.
I really don’t think it matters but I used Famwood. They make both water based and solvent based. I used the water based and thinned it to something between peanut butter and pancake mix consistency. This helps it spread thinner and dry faster. I also added a little dark walnut trans-tint to make it a little darker. The tint doesn’t make much difference but it’s easy to experiment with to see what you like. The filler will somewhat raise the grain, but I like to “water pop” to raise the grain first and sand smooth before applying the pore filler. I apply the pore filler with a 5” putty knife all over as thin as possible. Then be sure to wear a mask when sanding it, it’s really fine and even with a good dust collecting sander, it manages to escape into the air.Which specific pore filler did you use?
On my old unisaw I just screwed in some short Phillips head screws on the underside to rest on the support pads - back them out or screw them in to adjust and that was it. Never needed to readjust. Was lucky it was the right thickness of Formica laminated plywood I just happened to have in my scrap. The new delta/rigid I have now is a bit of a hassle since the leveling screws are on pads cast into the top but not very deep. I got a nearly full box of leftover laminate flooring that’s 3/8 thick that makes a good insert as is, so I just had to drill the access holes for the screws and use a forstner bit on the underside of the insert. When it comes to inserts, my mantra has always been whatever it takes to make my own since the price to buy them is absurd.I made a zero clearance insert for my JWTS-10, as buying options are severely limited. I used a piece of laminated flooring, reinforced by 1/4" plexiglass. I drilled holes for leveling screws, tapped for M5 screws, and used four M5-5 screws.
Did you add your signature ? Nice very nice...A friend wanted a jewelry tray with a cat. I used a bevel cut to make the bottom of the tray lower. I hope she likes it.
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