Well, it was worth a try

[tvrgeek]

After some use, I have concluded my attempt to make a better shooting plane is a failure. Sure, it cuts, but the "Bailey" profile body is just too tippy. Comfortable, but tippy. A bedrock cheek profile is so much more stable. Just a hot-dog I still find uncomfortable, so maybe my next step is to bolt the Miller Falls onto a bit of 1/2 inch aluminum plate and make a shooting board to match the height. No way can I afford either a real Stanly or one of the new shooting planes. Bad enough I just talked myself into the K-M router.* Switching between this kluge, by #5 Bedrock and my #4 Wood River, I can see the extra mass is an advantage so I will start milling out a plate. ( plus, I san shim it to perfect 90 degrees if need be)

*Bench Dog router cuts fine, but I have difficulty in adjusting it just a hair. I could do just as well tossing the adjuster and using it like an early Stanly.

 

[pop-pop]

*Bench Dog router cuts fine, but I have difficulty in adjusting it just a hair. I could do just as well tossing the adjuster and using it like an early Stanly.

Scott, this combination works nicely for me. It’s very easy to get a skosh with a light tap of the plane hammer.

 

[tvrgeek]

"Zackery" not the sloppy threaded rod in newer improved ones.

 

[BWhitney]

Scott,
IMHO, you've already got the holes drilled so try just moving your handle closer to the shoe so when you push down you are not also pushing out.
I kind of like what you have done and may try something similar when I get back in the shop.

 

[tvrgeek]

I tried that to start and could not get a handle to clear and be comfortable. Thinking about making the side the same "standard" width as the L-N and Veritas so I can get one of their guides, or just fabricate a retained guide. Going to use some phenolic sheet for the prototype as I have a lot more of it and am running short on my old STK tape drive white plates. I am also thinking about how to make donkey ears so I could plane thin box sides on a miter and both ends of picture frames. My Lyon does a great job but only if you nail the measurement. Taking off just a hair it can't do.

 

[JNCarr]

Before you use it as a doorstop, maybe try angling the handle 45 or even 60 degrees. This will break the force vector into its horizontal and vertical components. The horizontal will help keep the sole to the shooting plane. 45 would be more comfortable and 60 would provide more horizontal force. Just a thought ???????

 

[tvrgeek]

Handle does angle with the vector to just above the edge between sole and cheek.
I added a bit of phenolic to the cheek. Better. I think the previous mention that the handle being above the plane is an issue. Looking how to move it down.

It won't ever be a doorstop. If all else fails, convert to a scrub.

 

[Rwe2156]

I use a WoodRiver 6 to shoot. No handles or anything.

 

[Hmerkle]

Handle does angle with the vector to just above the edge between sole and cheek.
I added a bit of phenolic to the cheek. Better. I think the previous mention that the handle being above the plane is an issue. Looking how to move it down.

It won't ever be a doorstop. If all else fails, convert to a scrub.

I think your idea of the "Correctly designed plane" might have been a foreshadowing - pull the tote and mount your handle there and at an angle that puts the forces in the right place(s)

 

[tvrgeek]

I use a WoodRiver 6 to shoot. No handles or anything.

Yea, as I mentioned, my bedrock has the longer cheek and is more stable. The weight of the WoodRiver would be an advantage. I find it very hard on my hand without a handle.

It is an iterative process as I am not dropping $400 on a L-N if I can invent something using the M-F 814 which is no collector piece. It is an early one, probably later 40's or early 50's but the low end like a Handyman. Ironic, it originally had a Handyman cap on it. I want to see if I can do better.

 

[tvrgeek]

Well, I may have it. Just need to make a matching shooting board. Might even try for the outside guide like a Stanley. The Phenolic is pretty slick.

 

[mdbuntyn]

I saw this video on another forum. It's an interesting option if yours doesn't work out (Link to product):

 

[tvrgeek]

Saw it. Center of force is much higher which is what I was solving from my first iterations. I made a hot-dog first and was not happy with it, then put the saw handle on top, and now moved it down, so this would be MK III. Like a "normal" plane, I can reach the depth adjuster with my finger. You may also notice I skewed my tote a bit so the force is both down and in line to the cutter. I just finished sharpening the donation saws so I can do a new shooting board and try a lot of woods.

Bat Cave does seem to be pretty straight up with his reviews. Worth a look for those who have not seen him.

 

[Atlasfanatic]

Sharing another option for you. Just saw this short clip today, a handle with a mag switch in it so you don’t have to drill holes in your hand plane.

Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[tvrgeek]

Don't do facebook. But anyway, the handle is bolted to the phenolic base. The phenolic base is bolted ( drill and tap) into the body.
Anyway, it is working so I just need to make a new shooting board. I have a couple different ideas on how to square the fence and how to add a 45. As I am interested in Kimiko, I have some ideas how to make tables for the various common angles. Use the shooting board instead of making a handful of chisel trimming blocks as is traditional.

 

[tvrgeek]

MK IV. Biggest improvement yet. Bigger is better.

OK, first time I saw a shooting board, they were using a #4. I then see most use a #5. I found it uncomfortable and "tippy". Bedrock a little less so. I then did my handle and larger side plate iterations. Workable. I have a totally different approach now. Go big. #7. Taller cheek so not as tippy and the additional mass makes a huge difference for me. Being larger, it is not as uncomfortable in my hand, but a little short hot-dog may make it perfect.

I suspect those who have shelled out for a L-N or W-R #5 have the mass, but as I "suffer" with a mere original Bedrock, the big honking #7 does the job.
So, building new boards. The 45 in the photo works. Need to build a strait and a 45 tilted for small box miters. I have an idea with a fine thread bolt for precision alignment.

So,
I was testing what the limitations of the various trimming methods I have.

Bench Hook: Crude and quick. Needs trimming, but can cut any angle on about any stock. Compound angles, partial cuts.

Bench chisel: Can do anything with enough skill. About the only trimming method for partial cuts, like most joinery.

Powered Miter saw: Can flex a little, can chip out a little. Replaceable ZCR will help it. Can trim a 32nd OK, but not much less due to flex. Small parts way to dangerous without clamping and even then can get away from you. Full depth cuts only. ( mine is not a slider) Well, it is a carpentry tool after all.

Lyon trimmer: Clever geometry. Dead on if cutting to the line with 1/16 or so being trimmed. Blade geometry keeps the blade against the ways. Less than that, the blade will curve away from the cut in the ways. Any angle from 40 to 90. I was thinking about adding about 5 Lbs to the handle end for some more momentum when trimming larger and harder pieces. I am sure the big brothers used in the picture frame industry have more precise hardened ways and not the slop in my clone Grizzly trimmer.

JointMaster: If clamped, can cut dead on with almost no tear-out. Excels on tiny parts but may still need cleanup. Still looks like the tool for rough cutting Komiko.

Table saw sled: Not too bad. Better for larger. Fine for kitchen cabinets, but not for Komiko or picture frame precision. Need cleanup. A lot of time spent adjusting and clamping is needed. Can do some partial cuts.

Shooting Board: The only method that can trim a ( forum discouraged standard precise measurement term). One more time, the 200 year old method works the best. In the same category are the dedicated angle mini shooting blocks used for Komiko. May have to go there if I use a non-45 degree pattern for the screen I have in mind.