Well guys...I need some guidance about a well. I am feeling quite defeated.

spartyon8

Peter
User
I was hoping to find someone here with a little knowledge about wells. I am a fairly handy person and this has me feeling quite down as I cannot figure it out. We have had no water for 3 days now. Long story short, after all the rain from last week our well quit working Saturday afternoon. I was asleep (Benadryl and allergies...YAY!) when my wife came home and started flipping circuit breakers. I sprang up quick and asked what she was doing and she said we had no water. The following is what I have done in order up to this point.

1. I checked the breaker panel and the circuit was fine. I reset it anyway just in case.
2. I checked the pressure switch (not lever model for low pressure cutoff) and it appeared fine. I checked pressure in the tank (28psi for our 30/50 switch). All appeared fine but I replaced the switch anyway as I have had them play games with me in the past. Still, pump won't kick on.
3. I measure voltage at the switch and at the pump, both had steady 240v service.
4. I figure it must be the pump then. I pulled the pump out (shoulders feeling the burn) and replace with a cheap Lowes submersible pump (2wire + ground 3/4hp submersible). Turn the breaker on, nothing. Still showing 240v at the well. Pulled the pump (feeling like Arnold now) and test for voltage AT THE PUMP and still showing 240v there.
5. I return the Lowe's pump thinking that it might be DOA as my experience with HD/Lowes is a roll of the dice for some items. Grabbed a HD Everbuilt pump with the same specs, install and flip breaker...still nothing.
6. I check all lines with air and they appear clear, I can see water about 30' down in the well pipe and our pump is down around 2-250' so I am pretty sure the well isn't dry.

I am at a loss. I called a few plumbing places and they had nothing to say other than we need to send a tech out. I understand but with both my wife and I as teachers, we are not looking forward to that kind of bill. Anyone have an idea as to what it might be? Maybe I am overlooking something.
 
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chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
The well may not have enough inflow to fill the lines (in other words, its may BE dry) you may see water and the pump will pump that water into the line but not enough to continue the flow for 250 feet up and then horizontal to your tank/house. Can you submerge it further?
 
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spartyon8

Peter
User
I thought about that but when I pulled the pipe, you could see the water line on the pipe itself. Then, it only took about 30’ to hit water when dropping the pump down. It continues down to about 250’. I can visually see the water in the well itself, not in the tubing/pipe coming out of the pump.
 

ptt49er

Phillip
Corporate Member
Is your check valve bad? Maybe it's not letting flow through? Did you try cutting the pump on with it out of the well? Did it move?
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
Based on ~200 ft of water in the well with a 6" casing, you should have bout 300gal of water to pump, enough to fill the pipe and bladder tank.
When you pulled up the pumps (both orignal and the lowes replacement), was there any mud on it? Where all the inlet screens clear? Did the pump 'bottom out' when you reinstalled? Ifyes, pull it up about 10 ft and try, that way you will not deisturb the mudd layer at the well bottom. Also do you have torque arresters on the pump and piping? If there s signifant movement upon each pump cycle, there may be a break in the electrical line, but that may only be notible when the wire in stretched out (i.e. in the well).
Have you disconnected the well line and turn the pump on? You should be ble to hear and feel the fomp motion.

Good luck!
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
Is your check valve bad? Maybe it's not letting flow through? Did you try cutting the pump on with it out of the well? Did it move?
The Check valves are verified working. Before installing the new pump I manually tested it and reassembled the hose. When I pulled the first replacement pump from Lowes, I did test for power at the pump while out of the well. The multimeter said 240v at the pump but it next kicked on. That is why I thought the Lowes pump was doa. I don’t want to do that with the HD one now for fear of either burning the motor out or air-locking it.
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
Based on ~200 ft of water in the well with a 6" casing, you should have bout 300gal of water to pump, enough to fill the pipe and bladder tank.
When you pulled up the pumps (both orignal and the lowes replacement), was there any mud on it? Where all the inlet screens clear? Did the pump 'bottom out' when you reinstalled? Ifyes, pull it up about 10 ft and try, that way you will not deisturb the mudd layer at the well bottom. Also do you have torque arresters on the pump and piping? If there s signifant movement upon each pump cycle, there may be a break in the electrical line, but that may only be notible when the wire in stretched out (i.e. in the well).
Have you disconnected the well line and turn the pump on? You should be ble to hear and feel the fomp motion.

Good luck!
6” casing but instead of a torque arrestor, I replaced with the original 4”pvc casing (pump inside 4” pvc pipe). My research said that would be okay as well. I mean, it was on the original.

I did try the first replacement pump out of the well and still not turning on. Again, says it has 240v but not coming on.
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
whops, forgot to mention a couple more things...
I assume that you have done all those items, just saying...
Did you testet continuity of the electrical conections up to the supply (i.e. disconnecting well wires from line and checking for continuity after the pump has been placed into the well).
Did you check the original pump after removal to confirm that it is not working?
Did you you open a faucet next to the bladder tank to allow air to escape, when filling lines/bladder tank?
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
whops, forgot to mention a couple more things...
I assume that you have done all those items, just saying...
Did you testet continuity of the electrical conections up to the supply (i.e. disconnecting well wires from line and checking for continuity after the pump has been placed into the well).
Did you check the original pump after removal to confirm that it is not working?
Did you you open a faucet next to the bladder tank to allow air to escape, when filling lines/bladder tank?
I didn’t check the original pump as I had checked and replaced everything up to that point. I DID open the spigot outside which is the first outlet in the house. I didn’t check continuity as I read correct voltage at switch, well head and at pump. I am assuming if all three read the correct voltage that the wiring was fine. I will check that first thing when I get home.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Had you had any heavy lightning in your area recently (around the time it quit working?) I had a well pump die after a storm once. Little known fact, homeowners policy will cover this damage. Of course, you have to cover the deductible but my plumber replaced the pump, all the line to the pump, previous install was glued PVC with continuous nylon tubing and the wiring. However, some homeowners policies are great until you use them :mad:, mine was fine but ive heard horror stories about rate increases for minor claims.
 

ptt49er

Phillip
Corporate Member
I would be tempted to wire the pump directly to the line feeding your well house. Getting as direct a connection to the breaker as possible.

That would narrow your search a little.
 

jlwest

Jeff
Corporate Member
How far does your casing go down? It should go at least 5' into any bedrock drilled through. Seeing water at 30' is unusual unless it is artesian. It sounds like you are getting sediment in the pump.
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
I would be tempted to wire the pump directly to the line feeding your well house. Getting as direct a connection to the breaker as possible.

That would narrow your search a little.
It is wired directly to the pump head. Wire from breaker to switch to well. I am not sure I am following.
 

Skymaster

New User
Jack
Did you verify the foot valve is working, is your holding tank bladder at pressure and holding. To start pull the pump up at least 10' tie it off, try it again
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
Had you had any heavy lightning in your area recently (around the time it quit working?) I had a well pump die after a storm once. Little known fact, homeowners policy will cover this damage. Of course, you have to cover the deductible but my plumber replaced the pump, all the line to the pump, previous install was glued PVC with continuous nylon tubing and the wiring. However, some homeowners policies are great until you use them :mad:, mine was fine but ive heard horror stories about rate increases for minor claims.
We did, tornadoes as well near the area were sighted. Part of the reason I was lead to pump failure. I didn’t think about homeowner’s insurance as I figured this was considered typical repair/homeownership stuff.
 

spartyon8

Peter
User
Did you verify the foot valve is working, is your holding tank bladder at pressure and holding. To start pull the pump up at least 10' tie it off, try it again
No foot valve for submersible pumps. Tank holds pressure I even emptied and refilled it.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Based on ~200 ft of water in the well with a 6" casing, you should have bout 300gal of water to pump, enough to fill the pipe and bladder tank.
When you pulled up the pumps (both orignal and the lowes replacement), was there any mud on it? Where all the inlet screens clear? Did the pump 'bottom out' when you reinstalled? Ifyes, pull it up about 10 ft and try, that way you will not deisturb the mudd layer at the well bottom. Also do you have torque arresters on the pump and piping? If there s signifant movement upon each pump cycle, there may be a break in the electrical line, but that may only be notible when the wire in stretched out (i.e. in the well).
Have you disconnected the well line and turn the pump on? You should be ble to hear and feel the fomp motion.

Good luck!
Your math here is slightly flawed my friend. If you drop an empty pump and pipe into the well it may displace the water up the column causing a theoretical 6" x 200 foot of water column. This may calculate to 300 gals but remove the 2" diameter of air and tubing (which is where the 200 ' or so is based on) and you end up with more like 160 gals. Now im not sure if thats enough water to pump it up and out as I mentioned. The well may not be able to recover enough to compensate for that loss causing a no flow situation. Just a theory.
 

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