Wedge Side Table Plan

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
I have a request to build a small wedge shaped table something like these examples.

Randel+End+Table.jpg


71q-3JNZt2L._AC_SX679_.jpg


I have searched extensively for a plan that would guide me through a starting point to establish the angles for the trapezoid top and the corresponding angles where the aprons meet the front and rear legs, (I don’t think I am ready to tackle splayed legs so I will remove that from the equation.)

Anyone come across plan like this?

Thanks

Wayne
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
The angles will depend on the size of the top. Make a scale drawing, and use a protractor or bevel gauge to find the angles that you'll need.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
The angles will depend on the size of the top. Make a scale drawing, and use a protractor or bevel gauge to find the angles that you'll need.

Thanks Matt. I was thinking 16" (wide end), 24" (long) and 10" (narrow end). I'll try to dig out a protractor.

Wayne
 

Charlie

Charlie
Corporate Member
Wayne,
As RickR stated, +or- 7.125 degrees for the top. Aprons are +or- 7.125 (82.8750) degrees and 90 degrees, unless you want to "twist" the legs to split the difference which then becomes 3.5625 (86.4375) on all aprons.
 

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Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Well I have made such a beast, without knowing single angle (numerically). Mine is a larger 'coffee' table, but the ideas are the same.

I laid this out on the bench and used adjustable bevel angle gauge to find the angle empirically. Pretty straight forward I think.

- made the 2 leg sets, a wide one and a narrow one
- laid out the separation between them, centering the smaller one,
- laid a straight edge abutting the two outside corners (i.e long enough to stick past them)
- found angle with the angle gauge and used that to set my miter saw

Tested the angles on scrap first, but I don't recall any issues.

The harder part was doing loose tenon joinery on these stretchers and skirt pieces. Today I could likely handle relatively easily with a Domino, but at that point all I had was my horizontal router table. Did work, but took some head scratching. Seems obvious once you think about it, but the key is to get the mortise perpendicular to the 'angled' face at the end of the board (the end-grain face). Once I figured that on on the router table I was off.

Here's my post on it from a few years ago

Whatever happened to Phil's mahogany? A completed project!

Hope that helps
 

mlzettl

Matt
Corporate Member
Henry, that's a great post. I'm in total agreement of what you suggest. I made a small angled side table very similar to the photos in Wayne's original post. I didn't do a lot of calculations of angles, etc., just laid it out in the shop and used a bevel gauge to set up the cuts. I did traditional mortise and tenon joinery, and it was not really all that difficult. Once you have the basic angle set up to what looks good your eye, set the bevel gauge accordingly, then draw the angle on a piece of paper, plywood, or whatever. You can then easily reset the bevel gauge as needed. It's really quite simple.

I'm anxious to see the completed piece.

Matt

Well I have made such a beast, without knowing single angle (numerically). Mine is a larger 'coffee' table, but the ideas are the same.

I laid this out on the bench and used adjustable bevel angle gauge to find the angle empirically. Pretty straight forward I think.

- made the 2 leg sets, a wide one and a narrow one
- laid out the separation between them, centering the smaller one,
- laid a straight edge abutting the two outside corners (i.e long enough to stick past them)
- found angle with the angle gauge and used that to set my miter saw

Tested the angles on scrap first, but I don't recall any issues.

The harder part was doing loose tenon joinery on these stretchers and skirt pieces. Today I could likely handle relatively easily with a Domino, but at that point all I had was my horizontal router table. Did work, but took some head scratching. Seems obvious once you think about it, but the key is to get the mortise perpendicular to the 'angled' face at the end of the board (the end-grain face). Once I figured that on on the router table I was off.

Here's my post on it from a few years ago

Whatever happened to Phil's mahogany? A completed project!

Hope that helps
 

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