Waterlox - This method actually works great!!!!!

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tarheelz

Dave
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We've all heard and most have experienced that Waterlox is great looking when done right and generally easy to apply but infuriatingly slow at drying so environmental factors can lead to problems (bubbles, dust nibs, other weird imperfections of unknown origin that appear to relate to flow, etc.).

Despite its problems, I keep returning to Waterlox. Occasionally, I get a great result but typically the result is something less than the level of quality that obsessives like me would desire.

This time-around I tried a finishing strategy I found online and I'm here to endorse it (as it includes a final step that struck me as CRAZY). :thumbs_up

Follow these instructions posted at Antique Trunks & Chests' Blog*: http://www.antiquetrunksandchests.com/how-to-apply-waterlox-original-2014/

Yep. You read the last step correctly. After applying your final coat with foam brush, wait 20 minutes and then lightly brush through with a dry 4" wide foam bush very very lightly in long strokes with the grain. Fifteen minutes later go look again. Use a new 4" brush and every so lightly (weight of the brush) use long strokes to knock any remaining bubbles you can find with a raking light source. (He says you can go back again and again but I didn't need to do so.)

The only thing I would add to this method is that I make sure that the room and wood are warmed up before applying Waterlox. After I'm done with a particular coat, I turn the heat down so that things will tend to cool, rather than warm. (I think that was a recent tip here on NCWW.)

I also keep the air cleaner on. I think it helps move air in the garage thus accelerating drying. (Admittedly it also moves dust but ... oh well.)

* I only finish raw wood to 180 prior to Waterlox but he says 220. You do what you do.
 
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