Warped table top on “new” cabinet saw - big deal or not?

[Willemjm]

Heath,
I think you are obsessing over nothing here. Quite possibly hard to determine with the tools at hand. I see a metal straight edge and a square in the pictures. How straight is this straight edge?. How square is the square?. Thats an awfully short legged square to determine if the entire surface will be square to the blade, IMO. What will be registering on that part of the table top?. There are far too many variables cutting wood (especially the wood itself) to obesess over 2 hairs , literally on one area of a "flat" surface that may or may not be "flat". Flatness tolerances on large surfaces like this are defined typically in zones of a certain size as related to the INTENDED use.
Now many here will argue about all this accuracy, and accuracy is great but there is absolute and relative accuracy. I think many would agree that relative accuracy is far more important than absolute , ie the relative width of a mortise relative the tenon is FAR more important than the actual size (absolute).
Its wood, it twists, expands, contracts, warps, bows does exactly what it wants from one day to the next. Accuracy today may be gone tomorrow.
This has always been my experience FWIW.

I had to go back to mm to think about that. LOL.

Yes, 0.1524 mm on a woodworking machine is not something to worry about.

to reiterate - the whole reason this “check for flat” came to be in the first place was due to the cuts I was getting - this exercise is not just checking flat for the sake of “checking the box”. When ripping, say a 6” wide board into 2-3 narrow boards for example - I’m getting a perfectly square cut for the piece ripped between the fence and blade, but then the off cut piece - that would be used for the next rip, is a hair out of square. A really pain when doing narrow panel glueups. Obviously can re-rip, or even joint the offset edge to get it back to square, but that’s a hassle/ extra step I’m. It wild about.

When I do accurate work, such as stiles and rails for cabinet doors or other applications, I never rely on a true cut on a table saw. The wood changes shape due to internal stresses.

It's quite a process for me to get everything as true as possible.

From rough cut lumber:

1.) Joint one edge.

2.) Cut piece 3/16" wider than needed width, starting with the jointed edge against the table saw fence.

3.) Joint one face of the cut piece until it is perfectly flat.

4.) Plane the opposite face to final dimension on the planer.

5.) Again, joint one edge to take account of the wood movement due to stresses.

6.) Trim the opposite edge on the table saw, to final dimensions, removing only 1/16" to 1/8" of material with the table saw blade, using a rip cut blade leaving a jointed quality edge.