Here is a simple plane till I threw together:
The carcass is dovetailed. However I cut one end of one week and the other end another week. Can you guess what I did wrong? Yup, I made pins on one end of the boards and tails on the others
. Turns out ok because the top doesn't carry any weight.
I used ~8 degrees slope for the back panel. This is the angle at which a Stanley #5 won't tip out all on it's own. The back is 1/2" plywood dado'd into the sides of the carcass.
It is hung by a french cleat that is beveled to match the slope of the plywood back.
The slots are sized to fit the planes. I simply put the plane in, put a piece of hardboard (3/16?) on edge for a spacer and screwed in the dividers.
The clips that hold the toe is ~3/4 inch deep. The lip on the bottom of the till that holds the heals is only 1/4" deep. You put the toe in first, the heal barely clears the bottom rail and you drop it in. The toe is held in place by the top clip and cannot tip back.
If I had it to do over again I would do 10 degrees at least. I ended up with 8 degrees just by chance. I started dovetailing the carcass just for practice. If it was originally intended to be a plane till I would have made it deeper to accommodate more angle.
Also it cannot hold a plane smaller than a #5. #4's and smaller don't have a lip on the heal to catch. Not sure what I am going to do with my #4 and yet to be acquired #3...
My other bit of advice is don't glue in the dividers. Use screws. And don't fit the cabinet to your current plane collection. Unless you have a full set of LN's/LV's/BedRock's my guess is your planes will change.
It is great to have a home for these planes!
Salem
The carcass is dovetailed. However I cut one end of one week and the other end another week. Can you guess what I did wrong? Yup, I made pins on one end of the boards and tails on the others
. Turns out ok because the top doesn't carry any weight.I used ~8 degrees slope for the back panel. This is the angle at which a Stanley #5 won't tip out all on it's own
. The back is 1/2" plywood dado'd into the sides of the carcass.It is hung by a french cleat that is beveled to match the slope of the plywood back.
The slots are sized to fit the planes. I simply put the plane in, put a piece of hardboard (3/16?) on edge for a spacer and screwed in the dividers.
The clips that hold the toe is ~3/4 inch deep. The lip on the bottom of the till that holds the heals is only 1/4" deep. You put the toe in first, the heal barely clears the bottom rail and you drop it in. The toe is held in place by the top clip and cannot tip back.
If I had it to do over again I would do 10 degrees at least. I ended up with 8 degrees just by chance. I started dovetailing the carcass just for practice. If it was originally intended to be a plane till I would have made it deeper to accommodate more angle.
Also it cannot hold a plane smaller than a #5. #4's and smaller don't have a lip on the heal to catch. Not sure what I am going to do with my #4 and yet to be acquired #3...
My other bit of advice is don't glue in the dividers. Use screws. And don't fit the cabinet to your current plane collection. Unless you have a full set of LN's/LV's/BedRock's my guess is your planes will change.
It is great to have a home for these planes!
Salem
