Veneering ?s from a hobbyist

[Aradley]

New to this forum and my 1st post.
I am ready to undertake a new type of project in veneering for me (previously plastic laminates) and hope for some expertise from you all, I will be starting from scratch using Aspen.
Replacing my old Craftsman, I just bought a Laguna 14-12 bandsaw along with their carbide veneer blade to meet the task and I'm about ready to start cutting veneer to reface my kitchen cabinet frames.
My ?s
Thickness, V32 or V16
File type on aspen veneer, I'm thinking an 8" bastard, ROS or possibly scraping with a sharpened SS hand scrape, a router is out.

Glue type "this is my biggest concern". contact & brand, Tightbond Pro or I was thinking to try testing Polyurethane from a tube. My past experience with contact cement hasn't been 100% even on newly bought cabinets over time.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Oka]

Wide open questions. So let's narrow down a few things. General statements

Make sure your prep is absolute ..... absolutely flat, absolutely clean, and glue application absolutely even. Tolerances you need to think in 100ths and thousandths in these.
For me, veneering anything 80% of the time I use either contact or spray contact. I Mostly use solvent based glue, probably because that is what I learned on and I know how to work with best. Most of what I use are 3M stuff.
I use Titebond III or hide glue depending on other applications.
Repairs or "tweaks or Ahh S#%# missed that) I use CA glue. To me, a lot is just your eye and making sure everything is even and flat from the material to the adhesive.
Best advice when dry fitting up look over careful and slow to make sure it is exactly what you want.

 

[BKHam]

I don't use contact cement but as Oka says, i know folks that like it. It works well with laminate i found but I've had wood stuff delaminate. could have been user error. plus it stinks.

i use TB III or Unibond 1. Unibond may be more appropriate for gluing to a substrate. it sounds like you are gluing to wood.

I typically go just under 3/32 with my thickness of shop sawn veneers. I saw at a skinny 1/8th, then clean up wtih my drum sander.

i don't think i understand the file type question. you can use a Random Orbit Sander but you have to be especially keen not to tip it. commercial veneers are so thin, its easy to burn thru. since you could saw thicker veneers, this will give you some insurance.

do some tests and see what you like.

you didnt mention clamping method. i recommend you get some rigid foam insulation with a custom sized backer. i recommend this for vac bags or traditional clamps.

 

[Oka]

Thanks Bradley for the jog in memory. Unibond is what we used in the shop a lot when I worked in a shop, it is a good adhesive for veneer. Bradley is right about contact cement, just to add most my veneering these days are smaller so it is easy to control. On larger flatter stuff I would think the Unibond might be more forgiving.

I don't use contact cement but as Oka says, i know folks that like it. It works well with laminate i found but I've had wood stuff delaminate. could have been user error. plus it stinks.

i use TB III or Unibond 1. Unibond may be more appropriate for gluing to a substrate. it sounds like you are gluing to wood.

I typically go just under 3/32 with my thickness of shop sawn veneers. I saw at a skinny 1/8th, then clean up wtih my drum sander.

i don't think i understand the file type question. you can use a Random Orbit Sander but you have to be especially keen not to tip it. commercial veneers are so thin, its easy to burn thru. since you could saw thicker veneers, this will give you some insurance.

do some tests and see what you like.

you didnt mention clamping method. i recommend you get some rigid foam insulation with a custom sized backer. i recommend this for vac bags or traditional clamps.

 

[tvrgeek]

I have been "converted" to powered resin glue for my veneer work. So far, so good.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

I have done a lot of veneering using just titebond original or TB-2, and use LOTS of clamps. Veneer is nothing but thin wood so treat it that way.
contact cement does not hold up over time for me.
One big problem you may run into is “telegraphing.” This is any irregularities in the substrate showing through the veneer. Any joints or uneven areas (heavy grain, or knots, etc) will show through the veneer, especially over time. Just google “veneer telegraphing,” for an in depth explanation.
The best way to avoid telegraphing is to use two layers of veneer,with the top layer grain at opposite, or 45 degrees angle to the first layer of veneer. It’s a lot more work, but the best way to avoid telegraphing.
hope this helps...