Utility Sink Pump

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Good afternoon folks - I would like to install a utility sink in my basement shop. Unfortunately the drain lines are all above the basement floor which will require some form of pump to get the sink drain up to the main sewer line. I've got several options for location, however all but one will require a pump with 9' of lift. I'm wondering if this is within the capabilities of these pumps?


Secondly - I've looked at a couple of pumps which indicate that no traps or vents are required - this would make locating the sink a whole lot easier but I'm wondering if I truly understand what they are saying - this type of pump would allow a sink install without venting?


Finally - any thoughts on make, model, specs (like horse power) would be appreciated


Thanks for any help you can offer


Rick
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
I use these pumps often and they work well. They should handle a nine foot lift without issue. Most will require a vent but that can be easily done by adding an air admittance valve, commonly called a studor vent. My now retired plumber used to call them hog watering valves
 

FlyingRon

Moderator
Ron
Actually, these slop sink reservoir/pumps don't need a vent for the water to flow. The venting is just to get the smelly stuff out. You don't need the studor vent if you're not going to vent it...
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
So let me demonstrate my ignorance :) - my understanding is that the vent prevents sihponing of the trap and the trap prevents sewer gas/smelly stuff from exiting bck up through the sink drain. I also think that these pumps for utility sinks have a check valve that prevents gas back up and therefore no trap is required. Without a trap there doesn't seem to be a need for a vent to prevent siphoning - but what about the other traps in the system - will they be ffected without a vent on the utility sink?

Thanks
Rick
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
My plumber installed a trap at the point he tapped into the main drain for my basement wet bar. Super quiet 3/4hp, 120v pump.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
I should mention that thi will not be a DIY project - I' just trying to gather enough intelligence to speak with and understand a professional plumber. Given my reltive newness to the area - I am open to any recommendtions folks may have regarding a good plumbing source in the Winston Salem area.

I actually think I have found the perfect spot for this utility sink - right under the washing machine so I know there is hot and cold water nearby as well as the main drain line. I also see a vent through the roof right over the washing machine area so I imagine that vent would be pretty accessible. Given that - I will likely use a trap and vent just to eliminate the potential marginality of not using them.

Looking foreard to some plumber recommendations so I can get this project started.

Thabks
Rick
 

FlyingRon

Moderator
Ron
In a drain that's directly connected to the drain pipe you need a vent to get the water to flow right. Yes, in that case if you can't have a proper vent, you can put an air admittance (studor) valve to let air into the pipe but not let any gasses vent back into the room.

In these slop sink pump basins, you don't need a vent because the sink is just draining into a tank. The tanks have a provision to be vented just to carry off any smells within them, but they're not really air tight to begin with so they're not operationally affected by a lack of a vent. Now the thing they pump into needs another trap and proper venting.
 

gritz

New User
Robert
I have installed basement toilets which sit on an elevated tank and pump package. You may be able to drain the sink into the tank and get a two-fer for about the same cost.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I have installed basement toilets which sit on an elevated tank and pump package. You may be able to drain the sink into the tank and get a two-fer for about the same cost.

You could even go a step further, they make toilets with sinks integrated into the tank top. But I would still prefer a dedicated sink myself.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
And all you need is a cot and some bars to complete the prison cell look.

Isn't that industrial post-apocalyptic look supposed to be in vogue? There are few things cozier and more inviting than a prison cell, I mean, people literally spend their entire lives in such without ever leaving for greener pastures. :)

But back to the topic at hand , I do hope the OP will post details and photos after deciding how to proceed when the job is done as we may have other members smilarly needing such a setup for their shops. I have a small condensate pump to keep my dehumidifier drained automatically (I dump the condensate out a window opening) so that I never have to empty the bucket, so such things can certainly solve real problems that people encounter in setting up a shop.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
As requested - some pictures of the final (well almost final) results. I ended up getting a plumber recommendation from another member who came out, looked thoroughly at the whole project (location of current water lines, drains, vents), gave me some ideas and more importantly a very reasonable price - 1/3 of another estimate and that guy didn't even peek his idea into the ceiling to see the mechanicals.

I think I posted above that I decided to locate the utility sink directly under the 1st floor laundry. This gave me the best access to water and drains as well as being a location that was out of the dust zones and on the way upstairs.

A couple of pictures of the alcove in the basement - the first is the wall where the utility sink will be located - it is also the wall where the laundry mechnaicals are located on the first floor. There was an existing dedicated 110 circuit and receptacle for a freezer. I removed the sheet rock before I remembered to take pictures.



The next picture is the opposite wall - just to give some perspective of the location



And finally yhe basement location with the recepetacle moved down to accommodate the pump



The next two show the first floor laundry area with and without sheet rock - tihs is the area where the drain and vewnts will be tied in





And finally the finished plumbing in the laundry area and the basement





you can see the pump is basically a sump pump inside a "sump" container. It is a very quiet pump. The price I got included the sink, faucet, pump,all pieces and parts and labor. While they were in the laundry wall I also had them changeover the old faucet handle shut off valves to stainless steel 1/4 turn ball valves (better chance they will actually get shut off between uses). I also had them change two hose bibs that were old and leaking (parts not available). So now all my open plumbing issues are fixed - at least the know issues :). Inspection is tomorrow (also included in the price).

Rick
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Plumbing inspector approved the installation - he just wanted to make sure that the sink was fastened to the floor or wall after the wall is closed back up. Now I just need to get the laundry and basement walls closed and install the gfci outlet for the pump. The pump piping is convoluted enough that I may leave the lower section of the wall open. I am also thinking that I will put some cleanable surface behind/above the sink and on the wall side of the sink - previous experience says that not all gunk will be contained inside the sink :)

Rick
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Cleanable surface-Formica is dirt cheap compared to SS. Once back splash is installed and sink fastened in place, caulk seam between between the two. It's amazing how much stuff runs down the wall.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top