Trend sharpening kit

[Jeff]

I was actually using WD-40, but it definitely seemed the stone was getting clogged. I used the included eraser a few times, but it still took a long while. I'm using the veritas mk2 honing guide.

MK2 is a good one for consistency. DMT recommends spritzing with water periodically (not oils, etc) so that the swarf floats and doesn't clog the stone (you can see the swarf). I give them a quick rinse in the utility sink every now and then and then back to sharpening. When done, a final rinse and a light scrubbing with an old tooth brush, rinse again, and a final rinse with DNA. Never had a rusting problem on the stones or the tools

 

[Gofor]

For a lubricant
I use water with a couple drops of dish detergent both on diamond stones and wet/dry paper unless I am planning on using the swarf to ebonize oak (then its just water). Keep it in a windex spray bottle.

Go

 

[mbromley]

Good to know! I'll try some different lubricants, maybe I was just clogging the stones.

 

[ehpoole]

Out of curiousity, is the Trend set monocrystalline diamond or polycrystalline? Better diamond hones will use monocrystalline diamonds as they have a far greater service life but are also more expensive whereas many cheaper models use polycrystalline diamond as they are much less expensive (though more aggressive since they fracture frequently and thus have more sharp cutting edges). Which is the better deal then becomes a bit of a trade off depending upon price paid, desire for faster removal versus longer life, etc., as both have their place.

I really liked the review though as diamond hones are handy for a lot more than just sharpening tools.

 

[Mike Davis]

Monocrystalline diamond (Element 6 Diamond) is a single structure, that does not break down with use.

It has a strong & exceptional life span.

Monocrystalline diamond has the following properties:
Fast - Hardest material, the most efficient sharpening abrasive.
Easy - Light pressure produces an edge in seconds.
Clean - Use with Trend lapping fluid to prevent rusting or clogging. Oils are too thick.
Versatile - Sharpens all hard materials including tungsten carbide & high speed steel.
Durable - Stays flat & has a long life

Classic Pro 8 inch stone fine & coarse double-sided Double-sided site and workshop bench stone. Ideal for up to 3 inch plane irons and chisels. Unique clearance channel on coarse side to produce faster, cleaner cut. Solid diamond surface on fine side. Grit size clearly marked on surface. Precision flatness substrate. Unique diamond shaped surface prevents snagging when sharpening small or pointed tooling. Complete with pouch, cleaning block and non slip mat. Ex-fine 1000 grit (15 micron) and coarse 300 grit (50 micron). Guaranteed for five years when used with Trend Lapping Fluid. Recommended use with Trend lapping fluid to prevent clogging or rusting and assist in keeping tools clean. Use with no pressure. Ideal for flattening chisels and plane blades as well as achieving a shaving edge in seconds. Precision flatness gives the ability to also sharpen spindle knives in house. The extra coarse grit is suitable to fix and restore a damaged edge on chisels, plane irons.

 

[Rwe2156]

I'm always curious when I hear about guys sharpening to 1000 and going straight to the strop because its never worked for me.

Paul Sellers did a video on "sharpening to 300 grit" which I wouldn't even try. But I did try following his "strop strenuously 30 strokes" the result: my irons were actually duller than right off the stone. Not trying to stir up controversy, but check out "dubbing effect" of stropping. Could simply be the type of strop and/or technique, but I've seen the dubbing debate elsewhere & I think its real.

MDF is advocated by some people over leather and if the dubbing effect is, in fact real, I think there is a sound basis for using a hard surface.

But for me, its quicker to just go to 8000 and then 5 or 6 light strokes on the strop.

 

[nn4jw]

I have three DMT 8x3x1/4" monocrystaline stones that I like very much, enough that I've ordered a second set so that I have a "house" set and a "shop" set. In the kitchen I've used them to re-sharpen ceramic knives as well as steel. My wife and I have separate kitchen knives because she says mine are too sharp for her. That and she can dull a knife just by looking at it.

In the shop they work great on chisels, plane irons, etc. I just use water as a lubricant. They haven't totally replaced my Japanese water stones, but it can be a toss up some days, especially as I don't have to maintain and flatten them like the water stones.

If I didn't already have the other stuff in addition to the diamond stones in the Trend kit that Mike bought I just might have grabbed that kit. Overall it would have saved a few dollars.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009H5C5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DRLI3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Chris C]

I'm always curious when I hear about guys sharpening to 1000 and going straight to the strop because its never worked for me.

Paul Sellers did a video on "sharpening to 300 grit" which I wouldn't even try. But I did try following his "strop strenuously 30 strokes" the result: my irons were actually duller than right off the stone. Not trying to stir up controversy, but check out "dubbing effect" of stropping. Could simply be the type of strop and/or technique, but I've seen the dubbing debate elsewhere & I think its real.

MDF is advocated by some people over leather and if the dubbing effect is, in fact real, I think there is a sound basis for using a hard surface.

But for me, its quicker to just go to 8000 and then 5 or 6 light strokes on the strop.

Do you use compound on your strop? Chromium oxide?

I go up to a DMT extra fine and then strop with green compound. Much sharper.

 

[Rwe2156]

I use the green stuff, whatever that is.

Always wondered about skin side up or suede side up? I've got strops both ways, can't tell a difference other than the suede side up holds compound much better.

 

[Mike Davis]

I'm always curious when I hear about guys sharpening to 1000 and going straight to the strop because its never worked for me.

Paul Sellers did a video on "sharpening to 300 grit" which I wouldn't even try. But I did try following his "strop strenuously 30 strokes" the result: my irons were actually duller than right off the stone. Not trying to stir up controversy, but check out "dubbing effect" of stropping. Could simply be the type of strop and/or technique, but I've seen the dubbing debate elsewhere & I think its real.

MDF is advocated by some people over leather and if the dubbing effect is, in fact real, I think there is a sound basis for using a hard surface.

But for me, its quicker to just go to 8000 and then 5 or 6 light strokes on the strop.

That's why I try not to read too many different opinions, everybody has one and they are mostly all different.
And I have to admit I am not that anal in my methods or procedures. I do whatever will get me back to work with an acceptable edge for the job at hand. If I'm using my #6 to rough plane a board I may only sharpen to 300 because I know I will be doing it often during the process and the perfect finish is not required.
But if I'm trying the get the highest shine on a finish face then I may take it to 16000. Expediency and experience combined with common sense and education give me plenty of leeway to experiment and even 'cheat' a little when necessary.