Tops for shop cabinets ??

[dave]

I am ready to start building the cabinets for my shop and would like some input on choices for the materials I could use for the tops. They'll be about 2'10" deep so that will be larger than countertops I could buy from places like Lowes.

I was thinking of using either plywood or MDF, but would like to hear other options (if any).

Thanks!

Dave

 

[woodArtz]

I think MDF would be good. You might want to sandwich the MDF between layers of hardboard to protect it.

 

[Dudelive]

A 36" solid core door without holes and some hardboard to be used for the top or finish as is and have a nice looking top and solid and usually flat but I would check before buying.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Dave, just want to make sure I understand what you're doing. These will be base cabinets along a wall, 34" deep? And these will not be your primary work bench? Assuming this is correct, here's what I did in a similar situation. I used 2x8 Sthn. Yellow Pine construction lbr. from the BORG. I jointed the edges to take out the round-over, squared the ends, then biscuit joined them to form a solid top. It may not be the prettiest top in the world, but it's very solid and can take a lot of pounding. SYP is more resilient than most people think.

Here are two pics of what I'm talking about.

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Bill

 

[zapdafish]

I top shop stuff with mdf then a cheap laminate flooring, they can take a real beating and look pretty good. Edge band with hardwood. Here its 2 layers of 3/4 mdf then the laminate, for cabs, I would just use 1 layer of mdf

This is my roll around workbench topped that way. I don't have good pics of other places I used it.

One good thing about this method too is since you cant get two tops out of 1 sheet of mdf ( your depth is over 24" ). covering with laminate will let you use the left overs from the sheet if u want to join them together.

 

[dave]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone!


You're correct Bill. These will be base cabinets that will be along the outer wall of my garage shop. The wall has a ledge about 38" high and 8" deep, so I build the cabinets level with the wall and then top off the entire surface. I expect I'll end up with something very similar to yours.

Here's my model of how I want to build these.

View image in gallery​

 

[eyekode]

Dave,
Unless you have extra room I would consider making the cabinets 24 deep. In your case with the 8" overhang that would be 16" deep cabinets. At least for me I find > 24" a bit of a reach. Especially for storage where the thing you want is almost always at the back.

Either way your plan looks good .
Salem

 

[Dean Maiorano]

For what it's worth, you can pick up solid core flat panel hardwood veneer doors (sometimes finished, sometimes not) at one of the local Habitat for Humanity ReStores. There's one in Durham at the intersection of 15/501 and 40 with another in Raleigh in the area of Capital Blvd. and 440. The price may be a bit steep ($35 - 50 per door) but you won't have to do much if anything to make it work.

There really is no end to the cheap side of getting your need filled. You could take 2 x 4's and rip the sides square and build up a solid wood top for less than a solid core door. Or you could get real wacky and put the 2 x 4's on their side, drill each board, on the face, every 16" or so and through bolt the lot for an indestructable top that would last well into your grandchildren's lifetime and still cost less than $100. Any damage that occurs over time can be spot filled with 'bondo'. I really would stay away from MDF or Masonite (HDF) unless they're thoroughly finished and don't plan on breaking through that finish.

BTW, did I miss you saying how long the run would be? I'm assuming 8' or 7' run, at the most, when I give the advice above. You might want to also consider a 'backsplash' if that's sheetrock on the wall behind the cabinets? That's where I'd use the plywood, for anchoring storage racks, etc.

Dean

 

[Phil S]

Dave, I see you are in Durham and it
just so happens that I am doing a commercial office in North Durham. There are two 3/0 x 9/0 solid core doors that are in great shape and are just waiting for you to come get them for FREE. There are three catchs to this offer.
1. You need to get them before the end of June.
2. You need to bring some help as they are heavy and must be carried down one flight of steps.
3. You need to like Hondurus mahogany

Let me know

 

[4yanks]

I used MDF. I rounded the corners and chamfered the edges. I finished it with polyurethane and wax it about twice a year. It has held up well 3 years on. Although it doesn't look as good as Bill's (and I'm sure nowhere near as good as the Mahogany Phil is offering), it is cheap and has served my purposes well.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Dave, if you don't want them please do tell. I'm probably not the only one that would like a chance at them if you don't.

Willie, I take it you don't drill into that top or break the finish in any way. MDF does not like water, as we all know.

Dean

 

[4yanks]

Dean,

The polyurethane finish does an adequate job at keeping the surface from distorting do to spills (water, oils, finishes). It has stained a little over time but not bad. I put solid tops on the cabinets below and leveled them before mounting them in place. I scribed the back edges then screwed the tops in place from underneath. My intention being that I would replace them if I ever felt the need to. My router table, mortise table and that secondary bench all have MDF tops coated in poly and have held up well. The router table for 10 years.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Willy, the system is obviously cheap and simple. It's obviously a great choice. Thanks for sharing, I'm redoing some things in my shop as well and such simplicity will be useful for certain needs. Dean

 

[eyekode]

Phil,
If you end up with a spare I work in RTP and could swing by in the morning or at lunch if it works for you.
TIA!
Salem

 

[dave]

Phil - PM sent your way!

Everyone - thanks for all the feedback. I am going to take Phil up on his offer and try those doors. I think they might work perfectly.

If not, I'll be sure to make them available to someone else.

Thanks!!

Dave

 

[Dean Maiorano]

You're the man Dave. If you need someone to help you get them down, I live in Durham and would be glad to help. Free of charge of course. The site ethos is help each other and if I help you, I'll be more comfortable accepting help from someone else (because I am a 'better to give than receive' kind of guy).

Dean

 

[dave]

Thanks Dean! I know what you mean, as I am the same way. I've always had a hard time accepting help when I can't return the favor.

I think I've got everything worked out to get those doors from Phil tomorrow, but if that changes, I may need to take you up on your offer.

Dave

 

[dave]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to post a quick update and also publicly thank Phil for the doors... so, Thanks Phil! They are going to work out perfectly! Just sorry I did not get to meet you when I picked them up.

After I had the doors home, I swung by Lowes to check out their base cabinets. I found a 60" and 36" cabinet that both had some minor damage and the manager offered me 20% off, so I picked those up along with a 18" cabinet. I already had a 36" in my shop of the same style, so now they'll all match. May have spent more than if I have built some myself, but the trade off of having them along with the doors is worth the extra cost.

I'll post some pics once I get them completed and get the shop put back together.

Thanks again everyone for the advice! NCWW is definitely the best tool I have access to!! :gar-Bi

Dave