Tool Rest Modification

[NCTurner]

A quick mod to my tool rest makes a world of difference. I did this to my PM tool rest tonight OMG like night and day. ***these are not my rests, all I did was epoxy the drill rod onto my M rest.

 

[MrAudio815]

Nice, Way to go.


Oh wait I just realized that you said all those rest are not yours. And that you only put the 1/4" rod onto your PM rest.

Cool anyway.

 

[Guy in Paradise]

The stock tool rests...

that came my lathes were not great. And although I would have made some, I didn't have access to welder. So, I found it easiest to just purchase an upgrade, much like the modified ones mentioned here, at this site: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-toolrst-mtrs

 

[CarvedTones]

The one thing I worry about in those directions is the 5 minute epoxy. 15 minute is my lower limit; below that they have to use too much (IMO) filler to keep it from overheating while curing. But the idea opens another line of thought - why does the rest of the assembly have to be metal? As someone else mentioned, a lot of us don't have good options for joining metal to metal, but if I use a metal post, a good heavy wooden cross piece (purpleheart, maybe) cut like a Toblerone bar and a piece of drill rod I can join those reliably.

 

[Gunslinger]

Hi Gary,
Great looking rest.
I have been thinking about something similar. Did you weld the angle flat to the post or is it slightly tilted towards the bed for clearance?
Is the 1 1/2 inch a comfortable height now that you have used it?
I was thinking of ordering 18 inches of 5" steel pipe (1/4 inch thick, schedule 40 -whatever that is).
Having it split on a band saw into four sections and then cut into 12 and 6 inch lengths. This would yield a 12 and 6 inch rest for 4 people. Post would be ordered at the same time depending upon the lathe.
I had not thought of adding the hardened steel. Excellent idea.
Do you think 4" pipe would be more reasonable if I go with pipe?
On my lathe there is quite a bit of height play with the tool rest. I have seen some though that may not be able to get below center if the rest itself is 2 1/2 + tall.
Any ideas appreciated.
Mike

 

[WoodWrangler]

IMHO the angle iron design with the small bead to run the tool along is a lot better than the fatter tube. I had a tube one from Woodcraft and while it was acceptable, I didn't like how far it put the end of the tool away from the support (just by the nature of the design).

 

[sasjzl]

I would think that any current tool rest could be vastly improved by simply epoxying on the 1/4" steel rod. Is the 1/4" steel rod available from a big box store like Lowes or would I have to go to a more specialized place? That is an excellent idea though as I have been trying to fill the dents in my rests with epoxy and then filing but it is not always that successful.

Thanks,
Jim Lee

 

[Dragon]

A quick mod to my tool rest makes a world of difference. I did this to my PM tool rest tonight OMG like night and day. ***these are not my rests, all I did was epoxy the drill rod onto my M rest.

Rather than use 5 min or 15 epoxy, I prefer a product called J B Weld. Every aplication I've used it for it's turned out hard as stone and darn near impossible to break. Yeah, it's best if left to cure overnight and that may require some clamping/bracing/taping in place but, IMHO, it's worth the extra fuss to get a secure bond.

 

[erasmussen]

IMHO the angle iron design with the small bead to run the tool along is a lot better than the fatter tube. I had a tube one from Woodcraft and while it was acceptable, I didn't like how far it put the end of the tool away from the support (just by the nature of the design).

Thats exactly what I thought the first time I saw that, I just filed and then sanded mine until they were smooooooth:gar-Bi

 

[NCTurner]

Pics

 

[Bear]

Re: Pics

Cold rolled steel, or rod purchased from a box store is not hardened, similar to the steel the tool rests are made from. Drill rod has the carbon to be hardened but is normally purchased in an annealed state and must be heat treated to harden. If it can be cut with a saw or file, it is not hardened, the Robust ones are hardened. Just my opinion.

Bear

 

[CarvedTones]

Dragon,

I think JB Weld is epoxy with metal dust, but I am not positive. I far prefer overnight epoxy as well. "Real" epoxy cannot cure without a reaction that produces serious heat. Slow curing epoxy allows plenty of time for the heat to disippate, so they can use a better/purer grade. I used some quick curing hardener in high grade epoxy once and it melted the mixing cup!

Jim,

I have been working on some minimal metal working skills and should be able to ahrden some. If you want to pick up enough for both of us and swing by sometime to cut it and harden it (heat to cherry then dunk in oil) let me knw...

 

[NCTurner]

This is also another option available case hardened and cut to length.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#precision-shafts/=4kk5gs

 

[Bear]

Hello Andy,

Perhaps you are aware of this already and if so just disregard. I believe steel can only be hardened if the carbon content is sufficient to do so. Regular cold rolled does not have enough carbon to be hardened, although, it can be surfaced hardened with the correct chemical and process. Also different compositions require different temperatures to harden and also to temper. Without tempering, it is extremely brittle and can shatter. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Bear

 

[NCTurner]

Jim/Andy

Depending on the size of the rests you are doing another option would be to try to get some push rods from an auto repair shop or salvage yard. These are already hardened and avg 6-8".

 

[Dragon]

Dragon,

I think JB Weld is epoxy with metal dust, but I am not positive. I far prefer overnight epoxy as well. "Real" epoxy cannot cure without a reaction that produces serious heat. Slow curing epoxy allows plenty of time for the heat to disippate, so they can use a better/purer grade. I used some quick curing hardener in high grade epoxy once and it melted the mixing cup!

Thanks Andy. I always wondered what was in that stuff and have thought it may be fine powdered metal of some sort. I've used for lots of things and never had it fail under load or stress.

 

[Gotcha6]

CRS rod is readily available from Tractor Supply & such (maybe even the BORGs). It need not be CRS but it's the best option for what you're trying to accomplish. As I see it you are really trying to better define the fulcrum point on the tool rest and give yourself a smooth sliding surface to work with. For that part, you could also attach brass rod in the same way. Hot rolled steel products will have too much scale. Electro galvanized rod is another option but there may be issues with the epoxy bonding on that.